Bleeding Brakes - Seems to be improvement LOL
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Firstly........yes this is a serious post!
Basically, ive just been out doing the brakes on my Orion which i use everyday as the pads were shot and the brake fluid was very mucky!
I have had a VERY UNSUCCESSFUL attempt at bleeding the brakes (standard factory brakes) - Brand new fluid, pressure bleeder, used about 20psi of pressure, bled them all in the correct sequence!
The fluid is running crystal clear from every bleed nipple, ive bled every last drop of fluid through that i can (an entire litre), but the pedal is shit.
Anyone got any suggestions, cos im all out of ideas!!
Oh and just to add, its 1985 car, so theres no ABS or rear load apportioning valves!
Basically, ive just been out doing the brakes on my Orion which i use everyday as the pads were shot and the brake fluid was very mucky!
I have had a VERY UNSUCCESSFUL attempt at bleeding the brakes (standard factory brakes) - Brand new fluid, pressure bleeder, used about 20psi of pressure, bled them all in the correct sequence!
The fluid is running crystal clear from every bleed nipple, ive bled every last drop of fluid through that i can (an entire litre), but the pedal is shit.
Anyone got any suggestions, cos im all out of ideas!!

Oh and just to add, its 1985 car, so theres no ABS or rear load apportioning valves!
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Fuck knows
I'd be doubtful if it was the master cylinder, was fine before i drained the system, brakes were very good before.
One of them things i thought id do it for what brake fluid costs, wish i hadnt bothered now and just stuck the pads in
I'd be doubtful if it was the master cylinder, was fine before i drained the system, brakes were very good before.
One of them things i thought id do it for what brake fluid costs, wish i hadnt bothered now and just stuck the pads in
thats exactly what happend with me. we put new suspension on my step bros s2 along with calipers. were gettin fluid through but just a crap pedal. we went thru a hole lot of fluid 2. although messy, block off all outlets of the master cylinder and see if the pedals any good then.obviosly this is the last thing to check but if u say uv bled and bled it then its the only thing to do.
mk3 astras are always doing it, when u bleed them its advisable 2 just push half way down when bleeding.
if you completely drind the system then id say almost certainly the master cyl.
mk3 astras are always doing it, when u bleed them its advisable 2 just push half way down when bleeding.
if you completely drind the system then id say almost certainly the master cyl.
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Never liked them pressure bleeder things ive always done it the old fashioned way
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Originally Posted by antony215
Never liked them pressure bleeder things ive always done it the old fashioned way
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me 
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me And in answer to your question......i dont have any friends as you see from that other thread
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by antony215
Never liked them pressure bleeder things ive always done it the old fashioned way
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me 
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me And in answer to your question......i dont have any friends as you see from that other thread

Drive the car down to me
ill give you a hand
Originally Posted by antony215
Originally Posted by SafeChav
Originally Posted by antony215
Never liked them pressure bleeder things ive always done it the old fashioned way
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me 
aint you got any friends that can help you do it
you've obivously still got air in there somewhere if you say the master cylinder was fine before like i say id try doing it the old fashioned way that works best for me And in answer to your question......i dont have any friends as you see from that other thread

Drive the car down to me
ill give you a hand

well the 20 psi by the pressure bleeder has just ruined your seals in your master cylinder
you should only run max the very max 10 psi thats what they reccommend
when i carry out a brake fluid flush
suck all the old b,f out of the reservoir top up with fresh one
furthest away unless its a french car
(with an assistant ie your g,f) pump the brake pedal 10 times with the nipple open then on the 10th one hold the pedal to the floor
lock nipple off then pump 2 more times seperatly ie up,down then pump pedal till hard then release thats one nipple done only 3 left
make sure you keep topping the fluid up
please correct me if i have said anything wrong cheers
you should only run max the very max 10 psi thats what they reccommend
when i carry out a brake fluid flush
suck all the old b,f out of the reservoir top up with fresh one
furthest away unless its a french car
(with an assistant ie your g,f) pump the brake pedal 10 times with the nipple open then on the 10th one hold the pedal to the floor
lock nipple off then pump 2 more times seperatly ie up,down then pump pedal till hard then release thats one nipple done only 3 left
make sure you keep topping the fluid up
please correct me if i have said anything wrong cheers
gup you have said a BIG thing wrong there
He aint got any friends let alone a girlfriend

Safechav sorry mate couldn't resist that one
Originally Posted by gup
(with an assistant ie your g,f)

Safechav sorry mate couldn't resist that one
[quote="antony215"]gup you have said a BIG thing wrong there
He aint got any friends let alone a girlfriend

hee hee hee
Originally Posted by gup
(with an assistant ie your g,f)

hee hee hee
Originally Posted by NUTS RuS
Where are we upto on this then ?
Wouldnt want you driving to school tomorow with no brakes
You might kill yourself
On second thoughts........
Wouldnt want you driving to school tomorow with no brakes
You might kill yourself
On second thoughts........

either that or he did try driving it with no brakes and is now upside down in a ditch somewhere
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
I abandoned the project when i posted lastnight as it was getting dark and i was going out for my mates birthday!
Just about to have another play........i hope its not the seals in the master cydlinder, im sure under hard braking theres higher pressures than 20 psi created
Guna try clamping off some hoses and seeing if the pedal improves.
BRB
Just about to have another play........i hope its not the seals in the master cydlinder, im sure under hard braking theres higher pressures than 20 psi created
Guna try clamping off some hoses and seeing if the pedal improves.
BRB
Im not a fan of those pressure bleeders. good old fashion way for me too.
I doubt that the seals have gone, if it was fine before you bled them, then its a air lock somewhere.
do it the other way.. im sure that will come up trumps
I doubt that the seals have gone, if it was fine before you bled them, then its a air lock somewhere.
do it the other way.. im sure that will come up trumps
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Right well a bit of progress!
My mate popped round just as i had dropped it back onto the wheels. Hes a ranault mechanic, it would seem my fatal mistake was draining the system
So there was have it people even i make mistakes.
Anyway, i was convinced it was the rear brakes. So i jacked it up, popped the drums off, levered the handbrake ratchets back so the pistons in the cylinders returned home and re-bled them!
ive got a pedal now although its not quite as firm and the pads havent yet been run in, i did literally drive down the road and managed to lock a wheel up so im guna drive steady and maybe re-blead again if things havent improved.
My mate popped round just as i had dropped it back onto the wheels. Hes a ranault mechanic, it would seem my fatal mistake was draining the system
Anyway, i was convinced it was the rear brakes. So i jacked it up, popped the drums off, levered the handbrake ratchets back so the pistons in the cylinders returned home and re-bled them!
ive got a pedal now although its not quite as firm and the pads havent yet been run in, i did literally drive down the road and managed to lock a wheel up so im guna drive steady and maybe re-blead again if things havent improved.
firstly scrap the pressure bleeder, in my opinion they are shite. the best way is to get your mate in the drivers seat and pump the pedal, after ten or so pumps with the nipple open, close it and and when the pedal is to the floor then open the nipple, wait for the fluid to cum through then close the nipple and get him to lift off, this was no air gets back into the system.
also dont drain the resisvoir, just bleed sum out, then check and top up, then bleed and so on
you prob already know this but its here anyway
also dont drain the resisvoir, just bleed sum out, then check and top up, then bleed and so on
you prob already know this but its here anyway
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Right well......they were still pretty poor but ive needed the car so ive been being careful but this morning they improved dramatically, i think they are going to need a re-bleed still but i think that will do it then.
But...what i can't understand.......what have i done wrong? I know i drained the system cos the fluid in there was very mucky but if i was changing the master cylinder i would have to drain the system........so where am i going wrong? Just cant get my head round it
But...what i can't understand.......what have i done wrong? I know i drained the system cos the fluid in there was very mucky but if i was changing the master cylinder i would have to drain the system........so where am i going wrong? Just cant get my head round it
You used a pressure bleeder
i had the same sort of problems once when i used one
with the pressure bleeder i could not get all the air out as soon as i done it the old way without the pressure bleeder the brakes worked fine (hence why i dont like them pressure bleeder's
)
i had the same sort of problems once when i used one
with the pressure bleeder i could not get all the air out as soon as i done it the old way without the pressure bleeder the brakes worked fine (hence why i dont like them pressure bleeder's
)
Thread Starter
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Well i have to say......when i was doing it i did wonder if there was air trapped in the master cylinder, being as all the bleed nipples are at highest point, but the outlets on the master cylinder aren't
I was very tempted to move the pedal while bleeding but didn't.
Theres only one thing for it now....................
i need to make a friend and bleed them the old fashioned way
I was very tempted to move the pedal while bleeding but didn't.
Theres only one thing for it now....................
i need to make a friend and bleed them the old fashioned way
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
Originally Posted by khanny
you need a coffe jar half full with fluid with a pipe going from the nipple to the jar so even when its sucking its not sucking in air but fluid
Originally Posted by davsmith64
stick to electrical stuff mate
if you were to change a master, you would unbolt 1 pipe at a time and usind a nut with a blob of weld on one end screw it into the brake pipe to stop the fluid pissing out, also when bleeding you would bleed the master just by filling her up and cracking off the pipes like a normal system then do the calipers etc
Thread Starter
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From: Cheltenham, Gloucestershire
lol - well got in the car today and the pedal felt significantly better, then shortly after i was driving through the centre of town behind an Austin Maestro Mayfair D Turbo (if thats even real - turbo badge looked conspicuous), the roads were very greasy from all the salt and i hear a screaching and notice the maestro is grinding to a halt, so i stamped on the pedal aswell
Front wheels locked up and being nice new tyres they screeched well loud
lol, i was pissin myself
Don't think they are guna need re-bleeding now
Front wheels locked up and being nice new tyres they screeched well loud
lol, i was pissin myself Don't think they are guna need re-bleeding now
Originally Posted by SafeChav
lol - well got in the car today and the pedal felt significantly better, then shortly after i was driving through the centre of town behind an Austin Maestro Mayfair D Turbo (if thats even real - turbo badge looked conspicuous), the roads were very greasy from all the salt and i hear a screaching and notice the maestro is grinding to a halt, so i stamped on the pedal aswell
Front wheels locked up and being nice new tyres they screeched well loud
lol, i was pissin myself
Don't think they are guna need re-bleeding now
Front wheels locked up and being nice new tyres they screeched well loud
lol, i was pissin myself Don't think they are guna need re-bleeding now
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