Any 1 use Aquamist water injection, im thinkin bout going down the route of water injection, i alredy have a rs500 inter-cooler so my charge temps r quite good but theirs always room 4 improvment,

And has any1 riged up their own intercooler spray (the type that sprays a fine mist on 2 the outside of the intercooler) im bout 2 scrap my daily runbout was wonderin if its worth while takin the washer bottle out 2 make up my own intercooler spray,

 

Used Aqua mist for about 15 months now and its the business good if u are sitting in traffic and the charge air temp goes above 55/60 Deg and u are running big boost risk of detination. The spray will cool it down till the intercooler is doing its job again. I had it on a pressure switch so when it reached just short of full boost it was activated, its now mapped in to the ecu on at 43 Deg off at 38 Deg as 40 is the optimum. Remember U will need to mix the water with methnoll in winter to stop freezing as the pump is expensive

 

so u wouild def recomend it? which aqua-mist kit r u runnin? and isit hard 2 get hold of the methnoll, im just bout 2 change over from L6 managment 2 L8 so im thinkin when i get the car live mapped i should have the aqua_mist set up at the same time,

Thanx 4 the advice

 

can you burn water?

 

if its mixed with methnoll it will evaporat when combustion happen, it would evaporat anyway but it would prob make the effect the air fuel mixture,

the kits inject a really fine mist of water, kinda the same effect of a rally damp cold mornin

 

once read a book about old BMW F1 cars..when they ran silly boost and big turbos..

It said that water doesnt burn and water injection didnt work

 

it dont exactly burn it just evaporats, any way what would bmw know lol u dont need it 2 burn really, u get water vapor n shit when u burn fuel any way,

the waters only neded 2 cool in let temps down,

Apparently some of the world rally teams use it, not sure how true this is as i read it on a web site

 

why not just fit a better intercooler?

 

i alredy have a orginal rs 500 intercooler, cant really get much better than that

Intercoolers work really well when movin but become pointless if stuck in traffic, if u get the aqua-mist mapped it can help when temps get 2 high,

i want it as another element of safety, its not cheap at £360 but its a dam site cheaper than a full engine re-build, and any extea bhp

i can squeeze out of my car on hot days is a winner in my eyes lol

 

charge temps are not an issue unless the car is moving and under full load..

no point having it activate in traffic...

what happens to the BHP when the WI is switched on?

 

charge temps r always an issue, it can cause a car 2 over heat even when sittin in traffic. if the air enterin the inlet of a engine is hot it will transfer the haet in 2 the engine, (radiation), thiers only so much heatthe car radiator can get rid of when sittin still, thats why u have fans on a car,

1 of the main causes of head gasket failer is from heat, in most cases the head gasket will go round cylinder number 4 which is the 1 closest 2 the bulk head,

Ur Bhp will b closets 2 best possible figures (in the right conditons) when W,I is swiched on cause cold air is denser than warm air, the denser the air is the better the combustion rater is, thats why on a cold day ur car will feel faster and it feels like it pulls stronger

 

In theory you are right but you would not your W.I. mapped to run with no boost present, most systems operate around 42 degrees ACT, half a bar of boost and 2K rpm.

I have both systems on my car and we would only override and use either after a very hard stage in the middle of summer queing before we go into another stage, I doubt u'd ever use W.I. or I.S.S. overridden on a road car, how long are you planning to sit in traffic for? It will have some effect and is worthwhile but I wouldn't get too excited about W.I. it will stop det not prevent head gasket failure IMO, we have modifications to the head to prevent that.....

 

how so Ian ?

 

yer i suppose ur right, haha most thing r good in theory, if i can help it i wouldnt spend any time in traffic lol i suppose im after sumthin that done excist,

whit kinda modifications u runnin on ur haed 2 help prevent head gasket failer?

 

In the past YB's suffered with 'kettling' (the cooling water boiling around the combustion chamber) in the head, basically heatsoak or whatever you want to call it from the combustion chamber to the water jacket in the head, to prevent 'kettleing' we run three bleed off's from each head core plug to the header tank, this improves circulation in the head and prevents 'kettling'. It is a recognised mod on the grp'a' and WRC engine, on our engine I have 3 seperate -3 lines but there is an actual 909 3 way connector which provides a point where the 3 come together then go to the header tank in 1 12mm hose lol if that makes sense....



The 909 3 - 1



We have 3 individual lines going to the header tank...



Ian

 

Sounds interesting Ian.

As I haven't got a head in front of me, do you actually have to remove the core plugs and drill/tap to suit whatever the thread size is of the fixing you're going to use, or are there actually tapped plugs in the head already (to seal up some of the post-casting machining channels) that you simply remove and replace ?

Thanks for sharing the info Ian.

PS If you're not using that 909 fitting, is it for sale ?

 

Jon,

We take some new core plugs and use a -3 bulk head fitting through each one using copper washers as a seal, if you are thinking of doing it make sure you cut the backside off flush with the nut as the rear one is close to the cast of the combustion chamber...then press the new core plugs into the head....when we bleed the cars up we leave these off until water appears from them, to be sure there is sufficient flow through....the other two you can see are from the top of the rad and thermostat housing....

HTH

Ian

 

are the 3 core plugs on the exhaust side ?

 

inlet side.....they are relatively small compared to the block core plugs....

Basic layout of the system we have installed....



Doesnt show the componets too well, but you get the idea...

 

Thanks for that Ian - I was just looking at the WRC build manual to see what it showed.

Did you fit the one way valve, or is it not really required ?

 

Never had a problem without the one-way valve in, RED actually modified that system from the boreham 1997 spec and our car uses this configuration rather than the original, larger hoses and direction of flow etc...even after serious pain ive never seen ECT getting high with this type of setup....

Apologises Tev for slightly hijacking your thread pal...

Regards

Ian

 

thats fine m8 its been a real eye opener, and interestin read

 

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