power conversion to my westfield costs??
Hi.
I've got a westfield with red top cos engine in it, that is compleatly standard!!!!!!
I understand that a stage 3 conversion will cost about £500 and create about 300 - 340bhp. I cant upgrade the turbo due to space and don't realy want to have to change the gearbox unless apserlooply nessersary.
with these two things in mind what is the highest bhp I can acheave and whats involved and how much?
I understand that I would have to upgrade the head gasket and fit some group a head bolts how much would it cost to do this two items?
What power would the standard cluch take befor blowing up??
Any idears and rough estermets on costs would be apreceated.
Thanks jamie
I've got a westfield with red top cos engine in it, that is compleatly standard!!!!!!
I understand that a stage 3 conversion will cost about £500 and create about 300 - 340bhp. I cant upgrade the turbo due to space and don't realy want to have to change the gearbox unless apserlooply nessersary.
with these two things in mind what is the highest bhp I can acheave and whats involved and how much?
I understand that I would have to upgrade the head gasket and fit some group a head bolts how much would it cost to do this two items?
What power would the standard cluch take befor blowing up??
Any idears and rough estermets on costs would be apreceated.
Thanks jamie
The clutch, box and diff will take the power as the car weighs half the weight of a tin top.
It is more likely to spin the wheels before the clutch.
If going to over 250bhp make sure your chasis is braced around the diff and put some x bracing in the front section behind the radiator to stop the chasis twisting.
Unless you have some serious brakes and rubber I wouldn't bother with the power upgrade.
For the power you are looking for you will need some tyres that are at least 225 on the rear in a soft compound.
No point in having the power if you cant put it down.
At that sort of power in a light car it starts to become dangerous.
It is more likely to spin the wheels before the clutch.
If going to over 250bhp make sure your chasis is braced around the diff and put some x bracing in the front section behind the radiator to stop the chasis twisting.
Unless you have some serious brakes and rubber I wouldn't bother with the power upgrade.
For the power you are looking for you will need some tyres that are at least 225 on the rear in a soft compound.
No point in having the power if you cant put it down.
At that sort of power in a light car it starts to become dangerous.
There's not THAT much more difference in size from a T34 to a T3..
If not, What about a GT28.... Can produce good power
Sorry, But LOL @ that spelling
If not, What about a GT28.... Can produce good power
Originally Posted by jamiechadburn
apserlooply
thanks lads Ill prob re inforce the chassy and stick to stage 3 tops as I def know the brakes and handeling will handel it as its well sorted.
P.s yes i'm dysexic (hence why even dysexic is prob spelt roung) so at least it can come to some use occasionly!! make people laugh
as it dont half piss me off having to get a million people to check my spelling when need it to be perfect!!!!
thanks lads
P.s yes i'm dysexic (hence why even dysexic is prob spelt roung) so at least it can come to some use occasionly!! make people laugh
thanks lads
jamiechadburn if you're bothered about you're spelling, the google toolbar can spellcheck posts for you
i would suggest that a good stg1 (using a modern chip from a reputable company, not a cheap ebay copy) will be what you want. you don't want to go to a bigger turbo as it gets laggier and boost can come in hard and break traction.
i would suggest that a good stg1 (using a modern chip from a reputable company, not a cheap ebay copy) will be what you want. you don't want to go to a bigger turbo as it gets laggier and boost can come in hard and break traction.
nms gunship!!

mines on greys just cus i had some at the time, but you can get pretty much the same results from yellows
plus. mine is mapped on the conservative side as many of the 4x4's that Karl mapped on the same set up eat gearboxes. So on a T5 gear box and a fraction of the weight it could be pushed a bit further

mines on greys just cus i had some at the time, but you can get pretty much the same results from yellows
plus. mine is mapped on the conservative side as many of the 4x4's that Karl mapped on the same set up eat gearboxes. So on a T5 gear box and a fraction of the weight it could be pushed a bit further
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Going by the graph mate what is corrected power?
I cant believe that 160 bhp at the wheels is nearly 300 bhp engine
Thats 140 bhp of difference, where the hell does it lose that power, i no its a 4x4 but thats a seriuos amount
I cant believe that 160 bhp at the wheels is nearly 300 bhp engine
Thats 140 bhp of difference, where the hell does it lose that power, i no its a 4x4 but thats a seriuos amount
the corrected power is supposed to equalise all power measurements to a certain standard as written on the graph by taking the temperature into consideration.
but it's rarely done properly, like the drag power
but it's rarely done properly, like the drag power
I`ve had Private messages from people asking me about it too
Its a long story but it means theres nothing realler, as in theres nothing realler than a 2 wheeler ( being a 2wd cossie )
I also no theres no such word as realler, so thats how i got rilla
SO theres nuttin rilla than a 2 willa
stupid i no but at the time of making it up it was so funny
i hope this explains it a little bit
Its a long story but it means theres nothing realler, as in theres nothing realler than a 2 wheeler ( being a 2wd cossie )
I also no theres no such word as realler, so thats how i got rilla
SO theres nuttin rilla than a 2 willa
stupid i no but at the time of making it up it was so funny
i hope this explains it a little bit
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