I asked a lot of questions before this year about getting it running right, but before getting it right the radiator gave up the battle and then it was summer holliday which I spent on an island of The Netherlands, so didn't touch the RS.

When I got home I spend another 2 months before I finally got a new radiator, and it's crap quality so this won't hold for long too
The old rad broke down because I didn't mount it on rubber again after fitting the cos intercooler, so I had to mount it on rubber now and reroute the hoses.
Therefore I needed an 90 degree bent with a diameter off 60mm.
Well, before that was in house I was another month further

Getting sick of everything taking so long, the hose finally arrived today, so I fitted it all up and tried to start the car.... Nothing!!!
I then called my mother for her to push down the air flow sensor, and it fired up, heavily overflooding, black plums on the exhaust, so I kept it at 3000 rpm for a while where it sounded quite good, but as soon as I got under 3000 rpm it was overflooding again.
In the meantime my mother was in the house again, so I had to get to the engine bay without letting the engine stall, well, I didn't succeed in that.

After that, no mather what I did or didn't do, it would fire up.
Another detail, before it ran, the sparkplugs were brown, like they should, and after running, they were pure black, so the engine did overflood, that for sure.

I hope we'll find out now what's wrong, please help!!

 

buy an intercooler fotting kit from pace there about £60

(i just used 4 big cable ties )

new metering unit ??????

 

That won't make my car running again, intercooler is now fitted quite nice btw

Edit: metering unit is being bought...

 

Had the same problem with mine.Put a new,well,good second hand METERING UNIT on ,but still no luck.Took it to JAMSPORT (TUNING COMPANY) and he got it started by adjusting the fuel mixture screw in the METERING UNIT.Need togo and get it sorted at a proper place,not by yourself or you could do some damage.Hope this helps.

 

Can the fuel pressure regulator adjust itself??? As it ran good before.
I tried another regulator but didn't have any luck with that, so i'm going for another metering head, and other injectors.

Now lets hope they're in good condition...

 

air leak??

 

I bought another metering head yesterday, but it didn't look in as good a condition as mine and the guy set me to thinking, so I did some testing again, this time with a good possibility of measuring the fuel pressure.

When I put the car on contact the fuel pressure jump to 5 bar, then drops to 2.5 bar.
When the engine is turned over, it won't do anything till you push down the air flow sensor a little.
So when it finally runs, you have to keep above the 1500-2000 rpm's as it will stall if you get under that. A little push on the throttle will keep it alive.
After it stalls the pressure immediately drops to 2.5 bar again, but stays there, it won't drop more, nog even after an hour...
While the engine ran, the pressure was 5 bar, so 0,65 bar too low.



Who has some info now about why it won't run properly????

 

hose leaks always does it for me when the car needs forcing to run at 2-3k

 

You mean the boost hoses??

Can it be the dumpvalve not closing @ idle?? I think it never did, but I'm not sure about that...
I disconnected the small hose tough and it didn't make a difference.

 

yeah in boost hoses, and a duff d/v will act like a leak in the boost hoses, remove it and bloke the hole

you will get better answers to this if you put it in the right section too

 

Well, I tought, putting in RS Turbo section, the people who know a lot but don't own an RST any more won't look at that, and as this section is also for just getting her running, I tought it wouldn't be misplaced really...

As for the DV, when I disconnected the small hose it was closed while running, and the DV only been on for one running year with maybe 7000 miles at it's most...
Shouldn't be defect allready, should it???

 

NEW METERING UNIT

BIN THE DV

TAKE IT TO TUNERS

there are ur answers....pretty conclusive

 

Got it running again in the meantime, was very stupid actually, I hadn't the pipe on which you can adjust your CO with, so that's why it didn't run

Anyway, now that it runs it runs excactly the same, wether the fuel computer is connected or not....

What I've tried:
Another electronic fuel pressure regulator, no effect, measured the connector, had 8,1 Volt, measured the current, was 10mA, which should be the mA when engine accellerates, but the engine was running idle...
Also measured some off the other sensors(auxility air thingie and air potiometer, or something) and those also got the given voltage.
I don't know what voltage is coming back from the air potentiometer(that's how it's called in the wiring scheme), so that's something to test.

Well, that's it for now, you still think it's the metering unit???

Here a night shot off the car, hope u like.

 

fuel computer or fuel ecu?
fuel comp makes no odds the the car and fuel comp only worried about working when the extra fuel is supplied at the enrichening point as far as im aware, rst's do run with out a fuel ecu

 

I know that, but I've tried another fuel ecu before, and that also didn't make a difference, so 2 defective ecu's don't seem logical, so maybe a crucial input is missing.
The ecu has the output voltages, and I know it gets power supply, so it's the ecu, or one of the sensor, and as I recall, that air flow sensor on the side of your metering unit measures how much air is flowing.
Based on that, it enriches, so I think it somewhere in that process where it goes wrong.

And correct me if I'm wrong about what the ecu uses to enrich(when hot)....