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s2 will not start please help

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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 09:49 PM
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Default s2 will not start please help

right his alist of things ive dun
checked the timing
checked the petrol pum and it buzzs fine all the way turning it over
the metering unit flaps opends and closes
checked conections and pipes
and put £10 fuel in it
wiped the dizzy

and it wont start i put the head bk on after havin all the valves re saeated and tesetd and it stated up reved up then died.
then it strugled 2 start but when it did i died after 2 secs
please help
my metering unit hasnt got a screw in it wud this b a problem cus sumtimes it bak fires it sounds like it wnts 2 go but just wil not
cheers
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:33 PM
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the CO screw? i'd immagine that will be a problem

ignitiom timing

cam timing are other things to double check
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
the CO screw? i'd immagine that will be a problem

ignitiom timing

cam timing are other things to double check
check the timeing twice mate and had a play wit the igniton timeing
it the fireing order 1-3-4-2-
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:39 PM
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yea firing order afaik is 1-3-4-2. #1 at timing belt end. is the ignitiom timing set std? if so what yougot it set too?
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
yea firing order afaik is 1-3-4-2. #1 at timing belt end. is the ignitiom timing set std? if so what yougot it set too?
right thats my firing order 1-3-4-2
and i out the dizzy on wit both marks lined up the turned it 2 right at diffrent times and tried 2 start then it was on maxium 2 the right and stared then cut out etc but noe it wont even do that
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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distributor body clockwise to retard the ignition timing. Anti-clockwise to advance the timing, std timing is 12 degrees BTDC at idle, or11 degrees with vacuum blocked or vice versa

the CO screw is a bit worrying tho, tried it with someones finger over the hole jus to check?

You have checked all 4 leads are getting a good spark?

on the fuse box, theirs a heated seat position on the lid, check the position on the fuse box and check the fuse that is in it, its for the fuel ECU's power afaik.
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:56 PM
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what sud i do then mate put it back 2 normal and the point on the dizzy and the head and then what and yeh i put a screw in the metering unit and stil no joy
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 10:58 PM
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yeh checked the fuse mate and nah waha gona check for spark 2mozz if there low what cud it b do u reckon
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Old Oct 29, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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not 100% on the mark on the head, should be right but dont quote me, good place to start anyway. really need to get the right CO screw I think tho


shld check the spark as one of the first things, if its weak or missing, then yea . . lol
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 06:16 AM
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u sure its getting fuel?
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?

have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?

when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HORNETS7
u sure its getting fuel?
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?

have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?

when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
yeh the flap bobs up and down and yeh tried pushing it in whilst turning over
and i havent touched the brown sensor mate
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 04:15 PM
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while cranking, get someone to push down on the flap and someone to crack the nut off each injector to makesure it is getting fuel to them. ou'll get fuel at the metering unit but only at the injectors if u push the flap down while cranking.
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 07:38 PM
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how can u have had the cylinder head of without undoing the sensor plugn on the inlet manifold?
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Old Oct 30, 2006 | 07:48 PM
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TBH I had a smilar problem had £300 of head work done, cleaned and all that, spent months trying to sort it, then brought a new engine. Sols off all my old parts new engine had a cracked valve. tried to use old head wouldnt start used cracked valve head and it did. Funky shit these turbos are!
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:26 PM
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right i tuk a nut off the mettering unit and there was fuel in hole of the injector pipe blut when i pushd the flap down and turned it over no fuel cam out so deos this mean i gota take each nut off and do it
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:31 PM
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Sounds like your pump isn't delivering enough pressure to me, either that or the adjustment of the mixture screw.

As long as the timing is fairly close it should start regardless, its just more important its set right to actually drive the thing (which i wouldnt recommend doing until its been reset if you have adjusted it)
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:33 PM
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so does that mean new pump
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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Possibly, but don't quote me

have you tried adjusting the mixture screw?
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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yep
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 01:40 PM
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You could try pulling the plug off the EMFPA and seeing if you get fuel to the injectors then but i doubt it will make any difference
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by SafeChav
You could try pulling the plug off the EMFPA and seeing if you get fuel to the injectors then but i doubt it will make any difference
wres that mate and what is it
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 10:53 PM
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does it matter that i havent got a green plug conecting 2 anything on my inlet like sum others s2 cus i havent even got a hole or anything on the ilet for it
phil
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Old Oct 31, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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If you have the green knock sensor plug, and the ECU to match the loom, then you'll NEED the knock sensor, it doesnt have to be on the engine, just plugged onto the plug, if disconnected it retards the ignition iirc, but dont think it'll have anything to do with it not starting.
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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The green plug (knock sensor) won't make the blindest bit of difference, but as some other loser (Davvy ) said if you are running the factory ECU at very best you need the sensor plugged in otherwise you will lose out on performance.

The EMFPA is the Electro Magnetic Fuel Pressure Actuator, on the metering head. Has a 2 wire multi plug
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 11:35 AM
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Loser. . .sais Andgay with the onion spaceship (which isnt even turbo'd)
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
Loser. . .sais Andgay with the onion spaceship (which isnt even turbo'd)
Give the onion space ship some credit, it WAS tubro'd
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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im sure it was turbo'd, now whats tubro'd
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Old Nov 1, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
im sure it was turbo'd, now whats tubro'd
PRICK
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