s2 will not start please help
right his alist of things ive dun
checked the timing
checked the petrol pum and it buzzs fine all the way turning it over
the metering unit flaps opends and closes
checked conections and pipes
and put £10 fuel in it
wiped the dizzy
and it wont start i put the head bk on after havin all the valves re saeated and tesetd and it stated up reved up then died.
then it strugled 2 start but when it did i died after 2 secs
please help
my metering unit hasnt got a screw in it wud this b a problem cus sumtimes it bak fires it sounds like it wnts 2 go but just wil not
cheers
checked the timing
checked the petrol pum and it buzzs fine all the way turning it over
the metering unit flaps opends and closes
checked conections and pipes
and put £10 fuel in it
wiped the dizzy
and it wont start i put the head bk on after havin all the valves re saeated and tesetd and it stated up reved up then died.
then it strugled 2 start but when it did i died after 2 secs
please help
my metering unit hasnt got a screw in it wud this b a problem cus sumtimes it bak fires it sounds like it wnts 2 go but just wil not
cheers
Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
the CO screw? i'd immagine that will be a problem
ignitiom timing
cam timing are other things to double check
ignitiom timing
cam timing are other things to double check
it the fireing order 1-3-4-2-
Originally Posted by vroooom ptssssh
yea firing order afaik is 1-3-4-2. #1 at timing belt end. is the ignitiom timing set std? if so what yougot it set too?
and i out the dizzy on wit both marks lined up the turned it 2 right at diffrent times and tried 2 start then it was on maxium 2 the right and stared then cut out etc but noe it wont even do that
distributor body clockwise to retard the ignition timing. Anti-clockwise to advance the timing, std timing is 12 degrees BTDC at idle, or11 degrees with vacuum blocked or vice versa
the CO screw is a bit worrying tho, tried it with someones finger over the hole jus to check?

You have checked all 4 leads are getting a good spark?
on the fuse box, theirs a heated seat position on the lid, check the position on the fuse box and check the fuse that is in it, its for the fuel ECU's power afaik.
the CO screw is a bit worrying tho, tried it with someones finger over the hole jus to check?

You have checked all 4 leads are getting a good spark?
on the fuse box, theirs a heated seat position on the lid, check the position on the fuse box and check the fuse that is in it, its for the fuel ECU's power afaik.
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not 100% on the mark on the head, should be right but dont quote me, good place to start anyway. really need to get the right CO screw I think tho 
shld check the spark as one of the first things, if its weak or missing, then yea . . lol
shld check the spark as one of the first things, if its weak or missing, then yea . . lol
u sure its getting fuel?
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?
have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?
when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?
have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?
when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
Originally Posted by HORNETS7
u sure its getting fuel?
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?
have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?
when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
is the metering head flap bobbing up and down when u crank over the engine?
have u tried someone turning it over whilst u press the flap down?
when uve had the head of are u sure uve got the sensor plugs back on the right sensors at back of inlet manifold!
and i havent touched the brown sensor mate
while cranking, get someone to push down on the flap and someone to crack the nut off each injector to makesure it is getting fuel to them. ou'll get fuel at the metering unit but only at the injectors if u push the flap down while cranking.
TBH I had a smilar problem had £300 of head work done, cleaned and all that, spent months trying to sort it, then brought a new engine. Sols off all my old parts new engine had a cracked valve. tried to use old head wouldnt start used cracked valve head and it did. Funky shit these turbos are!
right i tuk a nut off the mettering unit and there was fuel in hole of the injector pipe blut when i pushd the flap down and turned it over no fuel cam out so deos this mean i gota take each nut off and do it
Sounds like your pump isn't delivering enough pressure to me, either that or the adjustment of the mixture screw.
As long as the timing is fairly close it should start regardless, its just more important its set right to actually drive the thing (which i wouldnt recommend doing until its been reset if you have adjusted it)
As long as the timing is fairly close it should start regardless, its just more important its set right to actually drive the thing (which i wouldnt recommend doing until its been reset if you have adjusted it)
Originally Posted by SafeChav
You could try pulling the plug off the EMFPA and seeing if you get fuel to the injectors then but i doubt it will make any difference
If you have the green knock sensor plug, and the ECU to match the loom, then you'll NEED the knock sensor, it doesnt have to be on the engine, just plugged onto the plug, if disconnected it retards the ignition iirc, but dont think it'll have anything to do with it not starting.
The green plug (knock sensor) won't make the blindest bit of difference, but as some other loser (Davvy
) said if you are running the factory ECU at very best you need the sensor plugged in otherwise you will lose out on performance.
The EMFPA is the Electro Magnetic Fuel Pressure Actuator, on the metering head. Has a 2 wire multi plug
The EMFPA is the Electro Magnetic Fuel Pressure Actuator, on the metering head. Has a 2 wire multi plug
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