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FRST Cooking badly

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Old Aug 15, 2006 | 11:04 PM
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Default FRST Cooking badly

Im rapidly running out of patience with my RST now..........

I have replaced the following....

New Radiator
New thermostat
New thermostat housing and gasket
new samco water pipes
new heater matrix
new header tank and pressure cap
New high power rad fan
New ford anti freeze
bottle water wetter
6 litres deionised water

Basically i have changed and in some cases uprated the whole coolant system, and have now removed the thermostat completly to try to help it.

The flow of water to the top of the header is not particularly strong on tick over is this normal?? Only component left to change is water pump.

And it is still running way too hot.

I am at the point now in all honesty where i have had it. The car is soooo quick when its not too hot.

What could be causing this?? I know the intercooler blocks a lot of air to the radiator but loads of people have the same as me fitted, with lower spec cooling system fitted and they still do more than twenty miles without boiling the coolant. (GRS Front mount)

Im starting to think it is a head / head gaskket related problem and that i should torch the ****ing thing, and dance around it naked uinating on it as it it perishes in flames.



I have a few options....

1) leave it on the drive for 3 weeks, get a specialised engines stage three head, kent cv35 cam and cometic gasket set and try again

2) Get an alloy rad (although i really dont think this will solve the prob)

3) Get my rad recored 90 mm wider by local firm for £80 to see if there is a major internal prob with my rad

OR....

4) Torch the ****ing thing, and dance around it naked uinating on it as it it perishes in flames.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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Blackie mate can't beleive you ain't sorted this problem yet, pull your finger out Nah mate messin i had a similar problem but mine was coured by fitting a brand new radiator for a fiesta si (alloy) £23 1x 10" spal fan new coolant and she runs a dream around town temp is 'O' on the temp gauge and on the motorway between 'R' and 'M'.

EDIT*** I REMOVED THE COOLENT PIPES FROM THE TURBO SO ENGINE TEMP HAS GONE DOWN FROM THAT, AS YOUR ENGINE WILL RUN COOLER AS YOU HAVEN'T GOT TURBO BOILED WATER PASSING THROUGH THE ENGINE.

The main problem with mine was the size of the standard rad its pants, try a bigger rad, xr2i conversion.

If you want pics i can post some for you mate.

Chris.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 05:55 PM
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anything wrong with your temperature gauge? lol
when is the fan kicking in? should be 3/4 up and switch off and half way
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:16 PM
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yep fan is working spot on, i have quite a good cut out in bumper so dont think diff bumper will help.

i def have no leaks, but im not 100% about the rads internals, its a second hand standard item so i think i may take it to get a xr2i re core done see if that helps, then maybe fit another rad fan.......

Oh and im thinking of changing the turbo to non cooled, get her to run a litttle cooler that way too, im gentle with her anyway so im sure it will be ok!
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:17 PM
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oh how much bigger is 2i rad???
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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25" and a standard turbo item is about 17" andy hardy on ft.com has a 2i rad for sale, and that was last week when i spoke to him.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 08:23 PM
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so when does the fan switch on/off????
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:00 PM
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it turns on at 3/4 and off again around 1/2 mark........

think im gonna remove turbo cooling and use 2 i rad, just did 11 miles in her drving gently (until 206 180 wanted to play) and it didnt go into red but was quite hot.

Drove her back gently and she settled down a little but fan was still on all the time when driving back, and was still on when i got home
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:04 PM
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so if your stationary after a normal drive, it turns on at 3/4. and whats happens then? goes up a tiny bit more then takes about 1-2mins to switch off?
is it not a std frst fan??
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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takes bout 5 to 10 to turn off, its a non ford fan, it looked quite good when i bought it but im not convinced its all that good, still even if that wee the case its gotta be more than just the fan
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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if it was me id put a std fan back on there before u try anything else, only cost a tenner s/h
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 09:33 PM
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i was having clearance probs tho mate, will try and get a working one and see how much room i got once i have sorted rad

Just want the bloody thing to run nice and cool, not even bothered bout the performance at the mo,!!!
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:09 PM
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Have you got white dial??? what i mean is have the neddles been off and put back slightly higher than normal because it seems odd that you are having so much trouble after changing virtually the whole cooland system.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:21 PM
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you know what im a complete twat. the dials are a little wonky lol

ill double check tomo, but ill fucking flip if thats what has caused all this!! Its deffo still way to hot!! oh and you got pm mate
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by h196jne
Have you got white dial??? what i mean is have the neddles been off and put back slightly higher than normal because it seems odd that you are having so much trouble after changing virtually the whole cooland system.
good point!is it worse when you drive it or on idle?soz i mean say if u start it up and let it run does it overheat or does it mainly happen after a hard drive then parking up or as your driving?soz if im confusing u but if its running hot as your driving normally then id say water pump as it isnt pressurising the system enough.if it runs hot after a hard run then parking up id suggest wiring the coolant fan up to a manual switch in the car as this is a common fault and i have this done and car runs very cool.
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:27 PM
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when its driven tis worse, on idle it dont overheat and the fan does its job quite well......

theres plenty of pressure in the cooling system too..
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 10:35 PM
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strange id change the water pump as its only cheap anda piece off piss if your handy with the spanners.then do the fan mod and see how it goes should be mint then.sweet car by the way mate blacks the best
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 11:02 PM
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i have been pretty adventurous with the spanners so far, byut find taking off the cambelt etc quite daunting. Is it an easy job?? seems like it could be a pain in the ass and if i get it wrong i could kill the bloody thing
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Old Aug 16, 2006 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by BlackieRST
i have been pretty adventurous with the spanners so far, but find taking off the cambelt etc quite daunting. Is it an easy job??
Top dead centre mate theres a make on the pulley (top) and the marks on the bottom plastic line them both up, by turning the crank pulley clockwise until both line up and then strip.
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Old Aug 17, 2006 | 07:22 PM
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i have been out today and bought a XR2i rad ( brand new) temp sensor and fan temp sensor!

Will be fitting it tomorrow, and im v confident this is going to sort it. I had a compression and some sort of fluid test done on the header tank to look for any head gasket leaks today.

Apparently the compression is very cood, and very even across all 4 cylinders and the fluid test showed that everything was fine....

I have done 59 miles (the most in a day i have ever done in three months of ownership and not once did it boil or hit the red, because i have now removed the turbo cooling, with the new rad it should be icy cool!!

YAY!!
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 12:58 PM
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Well this should hopefully be the solution to all my probs....




New rad fitted was a bit of a squeeze but got it in, i even managed to get it to fit a bit better so its around 1.5 inches further away from the actuator which is a bonus!! Just need to re mount the fan (its just resting in pic) and get out drving her!
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 01:34 PM
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still cant beleive u got all these probs lol
my intercoolers 10cm thick in front of rad, std fan and switch etc
rad even linked to the turbo and never runs hot, well unless its a hot summers day
hope this sorts out the prob then
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GavStyli
still cant beleive u got all these probs lol
my intercoolers 10cm thick in front of rad, std fan and switch etc
rad even linked to the turbo and never runs hot
Your intercooler is in the bumper and you still have the space between the bonnet and bumper for air to flow where the grs hwe has and the pro-alloy i have this area is blocked.

blackierst similar to mine mate you should see a difference mate, mine has loads of room too between the rad and actuator if i moved it forwar more i would have about 3-4"
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by h196jne
Originally Posted by GavStyli
still cant beleive u got all these probs lol
my intercoolers 10cm thick in front of rad, std fan and switch etc
rad even linked to the turbo and never runs hot
Your intercooler is in the bumper and you still have the space between the bonnet and bumper for air to flow where the grs hwe has and the pro-alloy i have this area is blocked.

blackierst similar to mine mate you should see a difference mate, mine has loads of room too between the rad and actuator if i moved it forwar more i would have about 3-4"
yes but he still seems to have probs even at standstill or just gentle cruizing, fan shouldnt be on that long.
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Old Aug 18, 2006 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by GavStyli
yes but he still seems to have probs even at standstill or just gentle cruizing, fan shouldnt be on that long.
Hmmm, well the bigger rad should sort it though, he must have spent a furtune in the last week
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 11:09 AM
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Have you changed the water pump?

If the low is pants it's one of the first things I'd be looking at
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by h196jne
Originally Posted by GavStyli
yes but he still seems to have probs even at standstill or just gentle cruizing, fan shouldnt be on that long.
Hmmm, well the bigger rad should sort it though, he must have spent a furtune in the last week
yeah i have spent a bloody fortune, nearly 500 quid in the past week!! only prob im having now is the hoses to the rad. i have use the samco bottom water hose but it has to be twisted slightly to fit and the top water hose is a nightmare. the boost pipe from the intercooler sits right next to it and there si no room for the water hose. so i have used a bit of normal hose but its really bloody tight!!

All i need to do now is finish doing the universal joint (started yesterday and it bloody rained!) and then go out and drive it.

i had the car ticking over for quite a while and its not getting even sligtly hot so seems to have sorted the problem.

will see how the car behaves on the journey to sixfield later for the mini meet!!

wish me luck!! oh and thanks to anyone that lended a helping hand especially h196jne!! (sorry bud aint got a clue what your name is!)

Dave
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