bastard bloody gearbox....
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
well just got in after 8 hours .. swapped the boxes over... eventually.. but still not running .. poxy car.. had to ..
remove exhaust...
remove and refit gear linkage....
remove rear propshaft (easy)
undo all the bolts holding it up..(how do people work on these things all sockets and bar combinations and there is still one thats a total pain to do up)
struggle round the front drive shaft as the bolts wernt the best
now needs new stud for turbo to exhaust as it decided to not undo
all done on me own tho and them boxes aint light either
back up there tomorrow and see if i can finish it off
ouch my arms hurt
remove exhaust...
remove and refit gear linkage....
remove rear propshaft (easy)
undo all the bolts holding it up..(how do people work on these things all sockets and bar combinations and there is still one thats a total pain to do up)
struggle round the front drive shaft as the bolts wernt the best
now needs new stud for turbo to exhaust as it decided to not undo
all done on me own tho and them boxes aint light either
back up there tomorrow and see if i can finish it off
ouch my arms hurt
well just got in after 8 hours .. swapped the boxes over... eventually.. but still not running .. poxy car.. had to ..
remove exhaust...
remove and refit gear linkage....
remove rear propshaft (easy)
undo all the bolts holding it up..(how do people work on these things all sockets and bar combinations and there is still one thats a total pain to do up)
struggle round the front drive shaft as the bolts wernt the best
now needs new stud for turbo to exhaust as it decided to not undo
all done on me own tho and them boxes aint light either
back up there tomorrow and see if i can finish it off ouch my arms hurt
remove exhaust...
remove and refit gear linkage....
remove rear propshaft (easy)
undo all the bolts holding it up..(how do people work on these things all sockets and bar combinations and there is still one thats a total pain to do up)
struggle round the front drive shaft as the bolts wernt the best
now needs new stud for turbo to exhaust as it decided to not undo
all done on me own tho and them boxes aint light either
back up there tomorrow and see if i can finish it off ouch my arms hurt
Keep on it Pete, you'll get better at it the more boxes you break
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
i tell thee now craig .. if i had the 200 quid .. you would of had the bloody hassle not me
spadge .. you are not wrong in the slightest ,
getting that sodding clip back onto the selector on the gearbox
i read the workshop manual first just to see if there could be any little problems... and hell it looked easy enough ..
the stud decided to wind itself out after the nut said nope im not going to undo, but hell lets leave it to the last on .. right by the block .. so got to tap that tonight..
and ouch .. my arms are in agony ...
feels like they have been pulled out for ages... i have much respect for motor mechanics after doing such easy jobs
spadge .. you are not wrong in the slightest ,
getting that sodding clip back onto the selector on the gearbox
i read the workshop manual first just to see if there could be any little problems... and hell it looked easy enough ..
the stud decided to wind itself out after the nut said nope im not going to undo, but hell lets leave it to the last on .. right by the block .. so got to tap that tonight..
and ouch .. my arms are in agony ...
Eagle have you got the car up on ramps mate?
if not, when you have time would you mind dropping me a pm running through the 4x4 gearbox removal and refitment?
cheer pal
Dave
if not, when you have time would you mind dropping me a pm running through the 4x4 gearbox removal and refitment?
cheer pal
Dave
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bet irt makes u want to buy a compressor and airtools makes the job so much easier and you can save so much time by not pissing around with different socket combos to get cleareance for the eatchs
EAGLE,
not much help now, but if you need to do summit again pop over to mine, i have a pit to get under the car, and a compressor with tolls such as an impact wrench to get the tight fookers off
not much help now, but if you need to do summit again pop over to mine, i have a pit to get under the car, and a compressor with tolls such as an impact wrench to get the tight fookers off
When i had my cossie its long enuff to get from the front to very near the back, and it two tier, so you can go low or lower, lots of fookin spiders tho
but you should be easily able to get unde the car, the guy who built it was taller than me
but you should be easily able to get unde the car, the guy who built it was taller than me
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
ok ..
dave ... i will mate ..
gra ... have got access to a 4 poster .. its still up in the air..
also have access to a wheely pump up cradle.. this is a must .. have to hold the gearbox while you slot the front driveshaft and the bit through the centre of the clutch
also have access to air compressor.. air tools etc etc .... only had to use the whizzy gun a few times most of the bolts are a real bitch to get a socket onto tho used 3 long extension bars to do the top 2 bolts.. its a pig to get the angle on the top starter motor one, had to go right from the front of the engine with me big long extension
yes i am doing it all by myself
i will do a write up on how much of a pig it is ... and how i wish i had a 2wd
will update later tonight or tomorrow morning
dave ... i will mate ..
gra ... have got access to a 4 poster .. its still up in the air..
also have access to a wheely pump up cradle.. this is a must .. have to hold the gearbox while you slot the front driveshaft and the bit through the centre of the clutch
also have access to air compressor.. air tools etc etc .... only had to use the whizzy gun a few times most of the bolts are a real bitch to get a socket onto tho used 3 long extension bars to do the top 2 bolts.. its a pig to get the angle on the top starter motor one, had to go right from the front of the engine with me big long extension
yes i am doing it all by myself
i will do a write up on how much of a pig it is ... and how i wish i had a 2wd
will update later tonight or tomorrow morning
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
can do if you want mate... im just getting changed to go back up there... and tryto finish the damn thing off
ring me if you come down and i will give you directions
ring me if you come down and i will give you directions
Originally Posted by Eagle
Originally Posted by Gra
the guy who built it was taller than me 


Ive done 2 now... WIthout a transmission lift and I'm not a mechanic... but with helping hand ... broke my nose when I did it first time, and yeah getting the shaft into the clutch whilst the box is pressing against the soundproofing is a complete bitch...
as you say, the front prop, allen bolts are Łcukers too....
Dave thought you took your box out already?
In all seriousness mate, as Eagle says, you really need a FULL compliment of hand tools matye, the bellhousing bolts are a nightmare and take ages as it is mate... WITH all the tools...
I would help ya/let you use the ramp mate, but as you know the four poster needs new cables really and tbh, Its a complete arse of a job
Dont think its the kinda thing which can be done in an inspection pit either really
as you say, the front prop, allen bolts are Łcukers too....
Dave thought you took your box out already?
In all seriousness mate, as Eagle says, you really need a FULL compliment of hand tools matye, the bellhousing bolts are a nightmare and take ages as it is mate... WITH all the tools...
I would help ya/let you use the ramp mate, but as you know the four poster needs new cables really and tbh, Its a complete arse of a job
Dont think its the kinda thing which can be done in an inspection pit either really
Told you it was akward.
Done mine a couple of months back but i took the front prop off and the allen key bolts rounded off.
As did the clutch plate bolts too.
(reconned the paddle clutch while the box was off)
Had to get oxy/propane bottles to get the bolts off.
All on the path too on axel stands on my own!!
Dave.
Done mine a couple of months back but i took the front prop off and the allen key bolts rounded off.
As did the clutch plate bolts too.
(reconned the paddle clutch while the box was off)
Had to get oxy/propane bottles to get the bolts off.
All on the path too on axel stands on my own!!
Dave.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
ok ... latest instalment... had to bolt the exhaust back to the turbo.. stud was so shagged... then snapped an exhaust clamp ... so its still up in the air
I would of just opened up an account with Craig and then let him have the fun option to do it
Always up for a deal Pete, you know that.
Anyway its not me who would get my hands dirty, is it!
Respect to you though for having a go.
It makes more sense for you to get your hands dirty Craig, especially when you've got the ramps, the knowledge and all the tools needed. Did you get a call about doing a gearbox an a Granada?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
well here it is ..... how i did it
4x4 gearbox removal......
remove keys from ignition and place on sunroof.
handbrake off.
car in neutral.
disconect earth from battery.
remove turbo heatsheild and undo turbo/exhaust bolts.
totally remove exhaust (it will get in your way ).
remove heatsheilding from under the car.
remove clutch cable from its housing by pulling the cable towards the rear of the car.
using air tools undo the 4 bolts that hold the front antiroll bar to chassis.
then the 2 bolts that secure the centre part of the diff to the car.
then remove 4 bolts securing the propshaft to the rear diff.
then the 3 bolts that secure the prop to the gearbox.
remove prop shaft.
drain the oil from the first drain plug on the side of the gearbox.
remove 4 bolts securing the cradle under the gearbox.
remove centre bolt of cradle.
gearbox will now drop down at the back.
drain transfer box oil from plug where the cradle was.
remove the 4 bolts that secure the gearlever bracket to the gearbox (2 different types of bolts remember the right way round) remove the connector pin and clip from the selector, this sits right on top of the gearbox and can be levered off with a small flat ended screwdriver.
remove the bolts securing the starter motor the top one needs a long extension bar and go in from the front of the engine , there is also one on the other side of the engine that you have to do from the front as well.
remove lower gear box securing bolts.
to remove the top gearbox bolts you need a long extension bar on the passenger side but drivers side you need a multi angle adaptor on the socket (it helps).
now the hard bit actually taking the box out, there is a lever point at the bottom of the gearbox. as you split the box from the engine, it will need to be pushed up from underneath and pulled out at the smae time (deffo a 2 person job unless you can support the box).
dont worry about the front prop as it will just fall out as you pull the gearbox out.
check the rubber bit under the gear lever/ linkage, replace if perished there are 4 long rubber lugs that stick out , user a pair of pliers and pull the lugs through.
and now the refitting of the new one......
just follow the steps above in reverse ....
when it comes to aligning the front prop and the splines that go into the engine get a mate to help its not an easy job to do it on your own the hard part is getting them both in at the same time.
start by refitting the bolts that go through the big engine securing holes one is above the starter motor (earth strap goes there) this way as your friend supports the box you can bolt it up and pull it together the other is oposite on the other side.
the gear linkage selector is a bitch when you get the pin and clip into place gently lift the linkage bar up and press down with the clip , if you get it first time i will be impressed , its just a case of wiggling it around a bit.. it will push in with no real force but make sure you have got the linkage into the box.
thats about it really, not difficult, just physical.......
whizzzzy gun is recomended to do the diff bolts back up.
dont forget the gearbox oil ... its a specific thing for the mt75 and you need 2.7 ltrs according to the book i read..
4x4 gearbox removal......
remove keys from ignition and place on sunroof.
handbrake off.
car in neutral.
disconect earth from battery.
remove turbo heatsheild and undo turbo/exhaust bolts.
totally remove exhaust (it will get in your way ).
remove heatsheilding from under the car.
remove clutch cable from its housing by pulling the cable towards the rear of the car.
using air tools undo the 4 bolts that hold the front antiroll bar to chassis.
then the 2 bolts that secure the centre part of the diff to the car.
then remove 4 bolts securing the propshaft to the rear diff.
then the 3 bolts that secure the prop to the gearbox.
remove prop shaft.
drain the oil from the first drain plug on the side of the gearbox.
remove 4 bolts securing the cradle under the gearbox.
remove centre bolt of cradle.
gearbox will now drop down at the back.
drain transfer box oil from plug where the cradle was.
remove the 4 bolts that secure the gearlever bracket to the gearbox (2 different types of bolts remember the right way round) remove the connector pin and clip from the selector, this sits right on top of the gearbox and can be levered off with a small flat ended screwdriver.
remove the bolts securing the starter motor the top one needs a long extension bar and go in from the front of the engine , there is also one on the other side of the engine that you have to do from the front as well.
remove lower gear box securing bolts.
to remove the top gearbox bolts you need a long extension bar on the passenger side but drivers side you need a multi angle adaptor on the socket (it helps).
now the hard bit actually taking the box out, there is a lever point at the bottom of the gearbox. as you split the box from the engine, it will need to be pushed up from underneath and pulled out at the smae time (deffo a 2 person job unless you can support the box).
dont worry about the front prop as it will just fall out as you pull the gearbox out.
check the rubber bit under the gear lever/ linkage, replace if perished there are 4 long rubber lugs that stick out , user a pair of pliers and pull the lugs through.
and now the refitting of the new one......
just follow the steps above in reverse ....
when it comes to aligning the front prop and the splines that go into the engine get a mate to help its not an easy job to do it on your own the hard part is getting them both in at the same time.
start by refitting the bolts that go through the big engine securing holes one is above the starter motor (earth strap goes there) this way as your friend supports the box you can bolt it up and pull it together the other is oposite on the other side.
the gear linkage selector is a bitch when you get the pin and clip into place gently lift the linkage bar up and press down with the clip , if you get it first time i will be impressed , its just a case of wiggling it around a bit.. it will push in with no real force but make sure you have got the linkage into the box.
thats about it really, not difficult, just physical.......
whizzzzy gun is recomended to do the diff bolts back up.
dont forget the gearbox oil ... its a specific thing for the mt75 and you need 2.7 ltrs according to the book i read..
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
nope .. darren came back and let it off its restraining lead... and the fooker did a runner
need a exhaust clamp .. and thats it it will be running tonight.. will take it out and top up the gearbox oil if needed...
need a exhaust clamp .. and thats it it will be running tonight.. will take it out and top up the gearbox oil if needed...
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,610
Likes: 4
From: somwhere in wow
yeah tried that .. was an absoulte pig ... couldnt even move it a mm
only other way really...
one good thing is the clutch is in good condition and the pedal bite is now higher ...
only other way really... one good thing is the clutch is in good condition and the pedal bite is now higher ...
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