Sparks on 1 and no Sparks on other cilinders?
I have sparks on first cilinder, but no sparks at all on the other 3. Could anyone advice me on what to check/buy/replace?
Has phase sensor, rotor arm or Dizzy cap anything to do with this?
thanks
Has phase sensor, rotor arm or Dizzy cap anything to do with this?
thanks
Originally Posted by bud-weis
Get yourself a new cap and rotor arm,and crank position sensor first
if those fail then ask again
if those fail then ask again

will order new cap, rotor arm and phase sensor tomorow.
Ask Stu @ MSD , I'm sure I've seen this question before and he answered it simply.. i have a suspicion this may happen when the phase sensor is connected the wrong way round.
Are you saying then that the coil only sparks one out of four, and always at the No.1 position?
Are you saying then that the coil only sparks one out of four, and always at the No.1 position?
Originally Posted by richm
Ask Stu @ MSD , I'm sure I've seen this question before and he answered it simply.. i have a suspicion this may happen when the phase sensor is connected the wrong way round.
Are you saying then that the coil only sparks one out of four, and always at the No.1 position?
Are you saying then that the coil only sparks one out of four, and always at the No.1 position?
btw, can't be a wrong connection on phase sensor since it was running good for the last 2 years in the same position.
What I've done so far:
- Removed uprated chip and installed original 2wd ecu chip.
- Changed Dizzy cap and rotor with a new one
- Changed crank sensor with a new one
- Changed phase sensor with a new one
- Changed old spark plugs with new ones (old and new are 071's)
- Changed coil, tryed 2 different coils (normal one and group A)
- Tested plug leads and are ok (tested in a 3dr L1)
- Tested fuel pressure before fuel regulator and gave 11 bar
Engine almost started when I have changed dizzy cap and rotor, but a lot of fuel smell was originated probably from previous starting attempts and turned it off. Then returned to previous state and don't even try to start. Engine turns well. Compression was made by a friend and was ok, but don't know any values.
Starting to be desesperate. This problem started after a big bang bang (misfire I think it's the english word).
any more ideas? thanks everyone
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Originally Posted by Cosworth-PT
- Tested fuel pressure before fuel regulator and gave 11 bar
it should only be around 3.5 bar with the pressure pipe to the regulator removed. perhaps the regulator is broken and allowing too much pressure which is leaking through the injectors and overfuelling bady.
can you remove the fuel rail off the inlet manifold complete with injectors and see what happens when the fuel pump runs?
WHen removed, injectors starts to spit fuel for around 4 or 5 seconds.
11bar is the pressure measured before fuel pressure regulator. after it yes it should be what you said, but didn't measured.
11bar is the pressure measured before fuel pressure regulator. after it yes it should be what you said, but didn't measured.
no, the pressure at the rail - after the pump but before the regulator - should be as i say. after the regulator, the pressure should be 0 as it's just a return to the tank that is vented to atmosphere.
injectors spitting fuel for 4 or 5 seconds does not sound good. it will be basically flooding the engine so will not fire. that will be happening while the fuel pump is running by the sound of it, as that runs for a short time when you put the ignition on. sounds like the fpr is your problem to me.
just by coincidence, i have a working one for sale on ebay, see my sig.
injectors spitting fuel for 4 or 5 seconds does not sound good. it will be basically flooding the engine so will not fire. that will be happening while the fuel pump is running by the sound of it, as that runs for a short time when you put the ignition on. sounds like the fpr is your problem to me.
just by coincidence, i have a working one for sale on ebay, see my sig.
Originally Posted by L9KOS
sounds to me like ya've put the main HT lead onto the wrong position on the cap i.e... a plug lead and the HT lead mixed up , especially if ya problems only started when ya changed the cap and leads!!
Anyway, my crank pulley is missing 1 of the 4 teeth, I think that's the problem and starts to make sense about the misfiring just before it stoped.
I'm just curious about the spark at just cilinder 1.
Originally Posted by L9KOS
sorry i misread ... i thought ya said problem started when ya changed rotor arm and cap , but what ya actually said was that the engine almost started when ya changed em!! 
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