Anyone got any tips? i got a Silverline machine polisher for christmas and wonna go and give it a try i have some poorboys stuff

ClearKote Vanilla Moose Glaze, ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze, Poorboy’s EX Sealant and Dodo Juice Rainforest Rub

Which i used to use by hand but can i use this lot with the machine polisher?

Cheer's Brian

 

To be fair brian, you'll be better of still using the old "hand" method for the products you mentioned there.

I only use my rotary for correction work. Once thats done, and im ready for the polish/sealant/wax i use manual labour LOL

 

Technically speaking, providing you have the correct pad for the job, any product that can be used be hand, can also be used by machine, although there are some that I wouldn't recommend it.

Of those you listed there, both the clearkotes work reasonably well by machine (is it rotary or random orbit/dual action Silverline you have, Brian, btw?)

If you have Poorboys products, then the SSR2 is a good product to begin with and will remove medium to mild swirlmarks, light RDSs (Random Deep Scratches) etc. SSR2.5 for heavier correction work and you will probably need the SSR1 to refine and 'jewel' the finish after the SSR2.5, although the SSR2 (depending on the type of paint and the pad being used), can be finished down to an LSP level on its own without needing to be followed with a finishing product like the SSR2 or Menzerna PO85 Final finsh for example.

If you can give a bit more info on what pads you'll be using with it and exactly what you're trying to achieve, then I could assist further with more specific info.

Cheers
PV

 

Thanks for the info mate

Its a Rotary one mate All i wonna do really it get rid of a few scratches and swrils marks on my 2004 Mondeo


Brian

 

If it were me Brian, I'd go with the Poorboys SSR2 on either a Meguiars yellow polishing pad (or a Lake Country 'Green') and see how that fairs with the swirl removal. If you have SSR1 as well, it wouldn't hurt to give it a pass over with that on either a Meguiars finishing pad (the tan one), or a Lake Country Blue just to refine the finish.

If you don't have those Poorboys ones and are buying new, then either go for a combination of Menzerna PO85RD 3.02 'Intensive Polish' followed by PO85RD Final Finish if the swirls are quite extensive, using the same pads as above. (these 2 Menzerna polishes are roughly direct substitutes for the SSR2 and SSR1).

Alternatively if the swirls aren't too bad you could get away with a single product like Menzerna PO106 Final Finish which might be enough to tackle them on its own and will finish down to a great gloss level.

Just be careful if it's your first time with a rotary, start with the least abrasive polish & pad combo you have and work upwards if you don't get the correction you want. Also keep checking the area you're doing and feel for the temperature of the panel and don't use it on painted plastic parts like the bumpers etc. as they can't dissipate the heat build up that rotaries create like metal panels can - random orbit/dual action machine polishers are usually used on these bits.

Cheers
PV

 

Thanks for the info mate


Brian

 

no offence but anyfing with silverline on it wants throwing in the bin.i work for a roofing company and lots of our tools are silverline and are crap,and dont last 5 mins mate

 

Looks like you`ve been given some excellent advice on how to get rid of the marks there, but just to add from my own experience, give it a good hand polish afterwards as otherwise you will catch the swirlmarks in certain lights. I usually use the g3 faracela compound myself,but this can be a harsh compound generally used for heavy oxidising or after a respray,more commonly known as "mopping".I`m not that familiar with the products your using,but with the g3 you can use water,actually you MUST use water, which helps to avoid burning through (which i have done!!) and you use a fraction of the product. I`m assuming that the silverline product is not the angle grinder type, but rather the two handed buffer. If so, they are a lot more forgiving than the other type. After a bit of practice, you should have no probs getting rid of the marks. The only problem will be, that when you see how nice the finish is on the patch that you`ve done, you`ll want to do the rest of the car!!!

 

Oh sorry, just remembered. Be careful around wipers, side repeaters etc. I know your car is pretty new and wont have any loose bits of trim, but i`ve caught mine before on something innocuous and ripped the foam pad in half,which is a pain in the arse if you`ve still got a lot of car to do.

 

Sounds odd, mate as that's not at all the experience any detailers I know (which is a LOT) have had with silverline tools. And my own Random Orbit machine has had a fair bit of use and works as good as new. Probably a case of professional use being a bit too much for them to handle, but for an individual just wanting to do their car, like Brian, they're fine.

 

With the products I mentioned and using the correct foam pads for the job, it won't need hand polishing afterwards - if swirl marks are still visible in sunlight or harsh artificial lighting like petrol station forecourts etc. then the machine work hasn't been done properly (I'm not suggesting you don't do it properly, I'm just making the point ). The only thing that's applied after machine work prior to a wax or sealant, is maybe adding a glaze like Meguiars #7, Poorboys black hole/white diamond etc. just to add a bit of 'wetness' and oils back into the paint. All the current specialist machine polishes these days like Meguiars #80 series, Poorboys SSRs, Menzerna range, together with their accompanying pads, are all designed to finish down to perfect swirl free finish ready for sealing and don't require any further hand polishing. G3 maybe different, I don't know as I've never used it, but as has been stated, imo it's not really the right product to do what Brian wants