marky_g

rite i have a mop and g3 to start with and a machine glaze

should i use anything between the 2 like a sealent or anything

also should i use a wax after the glaze?????

i done cars like this before just compounded then glazed but is there anyway t get better results????

marky_g

come on peeps where are all the top bufty boys when u need them

scotsbil

After polishing and glazing it is best to apply a wax or sealant to protect the finish.

marky_g

so compound, glaze then sealant/wax

scotsbil

Thats the correct order the results should be cracking that way.

If you use sealant it will be "shiny/reflective" the wax will help to give a shiny finish but have more depth and possibly more wetness to the finish.

All dependant on products used.

marky_g

sealant it is then not a fax of waxing cars, if u ever have to spray any thing it makes it a total bastard

wallopadonkey

g3 is quite an aggressive compound mainly for removing defects after resprays and then only after wet flatting of the paint to remove scratches left from 1500 wet and dry sand paper
if your paint is really as bad as this then fair enough but for most people it is far far too coarse

it is not really the best thing for general use on paint as it can remove a lot of the paint you will also have to very careful around the edges as it can burn the edges of the paint without too much difficulty
that being said white paint uses titanium dioxide to give it its colour and will usually be solid paint and is among the hardest paint to cut with the exception of vw ceramiclear paints

if you can get hold of some menzerna final finish and a sonus white (medium) pad or a swirl buster pad (orange) try that if not enough cut for you then try menzerna intensive polish with a sonus yellow (cutting) pad then follow it with final finish on the white pad it will give you a finish that will be much smoother and finer to accept you sealant then wax if you want (not much point on white cars though acrylic only really) because when you look at a white car in the sun you will have trouble seeing the difference. due to larger amounts of the suns rays being reflected back due to light colour of the car

i have 3 main polishes i use to get cars into show condition and if you have the inclination the following method will give you excellent results:-

use a multi purpose cleaner (meguires apc or g101 diluted 4-1 ) on the under arch areas and wheels then give the car a sno foam, leave it to soak off the majority of the grime (make a brew) pressure wash off the sno foam and do the wheels and under arches as well.
wash using 2 bucket method (1 bucket with hot water and sonus gloss shampoo quite strong, fill the other bucket with clean cold water and a grit guard in the bottom.
if not been cleaned for a while use a clay two types commonly available grey (aggressive) and green (mild) i tend to just use green unless the car is real dirty (when you wipe your finger over the cleaned paint if it still feels rough it will need claying )
i make up a very strong mix of sonus gloss shampoo and warm water into a 1 liter spray bottle to lube the clay on the panel as this will prevent marring and other fine scratches (if you ever drop the clay onto the floor it is no good for anything other than wheels and should really be thrown away as small pieces of stone on the floor will stick to the clay and really damage the paint)
after you have clayed one panel fold the clay over itself a few times to get a clean part again and do another panel start with roof then bonnet then wings then door tops then boot i normally dont do the bottoms of doors cos they are quite often stone guarded no point really.
wash the car again using the wool mitten 2 bucket method to remove all traces of the clay residue and dry with a sonus microfibre drying towel or a leaf blower lol

i will now normally give the car a once over with my paint thickness guage to check for any thin paint signs of repainted panel and areas to be careful

i tend to use a mixture of makita rotary polisher 9227 and porter cable machine to do the panels
the heaviest polish i use is power gloss (10/10 cut) is used on 5 % of cars and only if the customer wants me to be aggressive, then intensive polish (5/10 cut) used on 40% of cars then final finish (1/10 cut) used on all cars then an all in one polish like carlack 68 or klasse (paint cleaner/true polish) then klasse sealant glaze or carlack nano acrylic 1 coat of this applied by machine then left for 15 mins then spit shined (not buffed off but left on and another coat applied over the top of the first one) with another coat of acrylic then left for 20 mins and buffed off with sonus polishing cloths this will give a very nice sleek finish i will normally stop now unless the car is dark red or charcoal if so i apply 1 coat of a wax like pinnacle sovereign (great on black and red) or natties blue (loads cheaper and doesnt last as long but looks good short term and will need topping up)

sorry this post goes on a bit but you did ask for advice and should be help ful most of the items listed above can be bought from ebay or do a google search for them lol

i am working on a version of this post with pictures which may help a lot

thanks
dave

marky_g

thats very in depth but very help ful thanks for that mate

the car in questions been sitting for about 3 years that why im using g3 its covered in bird poo and dirt and general crap will need a paint this is just a Temp thing