thanks man ! but...
sorry: i've stolen your time because of my mistake!
in the rush i wrote it wrong, so it might be misinterpreted...
i've not sawn the rack, but i did a 12.5mm cut on the steering rack "chassis",
(not a 15mm one, because i might have bigger issues trying to put the driver side boot on).
the steering mechanism and ackerman are unchanged, but...
the rack now can go further, because the bump stops, on the s_r_chassis, let the tie rods free to move 12.5mm more.
this pic might explain better what i'm saying...




anyway, this your tip is very useful. many thanks for it !
(if it's you who's thought about that tie rod rig, you're a genius !)
i'm just start thinking about some future mods...


but, i still haven't understood how, if i saw the rack ends, ackermann will change...
if after the toe-in service, i keep the standard toe, the steering joints on the knuckles will remain in the same position.

as far as i know, a sawn rack rod may cause bump steering, due of the tie rod inner joint position changing.
to explain me better i put these, from t.gilles - automotive chassis.

(in the toe change paragraph they just go down, but the principle is more or less the same...
tie rod joints moved inboard may cause some pull on the knukles, due to suspension bump.
toe-in or toe-out, depends if the s_rack is located in front of or back the front wheels axle)





however "antisway shims for more caster" will push steering knuckles forward, changing their position VS the rear axle center... and this will affect ackermann (i hope not big deal).

or do you just mean: annoying "excessive ack_ angle" with the steer at full lock?

robrs2, i'm a huge fan of your work, man !
that amazing 24v 3dr of yours inspired me when my project was just some mental masturbation, i love it .
any top tip or reply from you is really appreciated !!!