lesley7

hello all when first had my saph if i reved it in nutral out of gear it would bounce of the rev limiter and the dump valve would blow of but over the years it dont do this now as in blow the dump valve of when driving it it still pulls like it should in every gear but gets into the limiter at 4.500 same when its reved in nutral its into the limiter at 4.500 wont go any higher its stg 1 chipped fully serviced done the trigger gap thingey in the dizzy fuel pump wiring head gasket ive just bought a new fuel pump today also got a group a coil to go on a new idle control valve to put on as well i forgot to say that the dump valve blows of when driving should the rev counter be getting into the red or is the rev c shafted i havent done all this to try and over come this this problem some of these parts are being changed because it makes a 30 yr old cossie more reliable timming is spot on i changsd the ammal valve a few yrs ago your thoughts would be great im a mechanic by trade but no f..k all about the tuneing side of things

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You are confusing the limiter with a misfire.

The most common cause of this is ignition related.

The system is not great, especially when tuned and has to be in good condition.

The reason being is when boost pressure is increased, as is cylinder pressure, which results in the spark not being able to occur.

Modern ignition systems, as well as being superior in design, provide a stronger spark (as does a Grp A coil) which overcomes this issue.

You need to check the ignition system.

The rev limit is set in software.

Martin

lesley7

thats intresting you could be right there i never looked at it as a misfire do you no of hand what rev limiter is set at should i be able to get the rev counter in the red or does anyone els no i have a group a coil to go on it

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

It depends on the software, but with yours it's probably standard, so you should be able to rev in excess of 6K.

There is a soft and hard limit, as standard fuel injection is cut completely @ 7K.

It's also possible to hit a boost cut.

Martin

lesley7

thanks martin what the f...k are you doing up at 030 am repling to this lol

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

I need a life, clearly

Martin

lesley7

i was reading an old thread that you was part of explaining wireing a group a coil through a relay would you mind telling me i used to be a mechanic untill recent but electrics arnt my thing from what i can see terminal 30 is the supply straight from the bat with fuse the green negative from the coil would be the negative on the group a coil and the same for the black posative to go on the posative on the group a not sure on the rest things like switched live or load side mean nothing to me any help would be great thanks

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

If using a relay, the switched live (i.e. black wire) would connect to the relay (pin 86) and would need an earth (pin 85). The output from the relay (pin 87) would connect to the coil and the supply to pin 30, this should be protected as close to the battery as possible.

Switched is as the name suggests and simply means the supply has a switch (in this case it's the ignition switch) opposed to being 'hot' i.e. permanently live.

Personally I think it is OTT.

Martin

lesley7

thanks martin so the black coil wire goes to pin 86 a protected live from the battery to pin 30 pin 85 goes to earth pin 87 goes to the plus side of the coil i kind of agree but if the rad fan wireing and the feul pump wireing is anythink to go by oh and the headlight ect ect ect lol it will be intresting to see if my plugs dont blow out at 4500 i cant believe it pulls so hard like that

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pump and fan wiring are a given.

People worry about the voltage on these cars.

The coil does not draw that much power really, although you can get drops with a heavy load, as the system is overloaded as standard.

There becomes a point where it becomes absurd, with virtually the whole car being rewired with individual circuits.

I doubt rewiring the coil will make any difference, it's the substandard ignition system that causes problems, so this has to be in good order.

Martin

lesley7

have you got any tips martin on tightening the banjo bolts on the soft alloy feul filter if you put a spanner on the hex on the end of the filter it moves the material causing the joint to leak i think last time i used fibre washers instead of copper i even sofened the washers with blow lamp first i might try a oil filter strap arround it then tighten

lesley7

sorted it got a 2.8 injection capri k tronic filter its steel one end with a fukk of spanner fitting on one end fits in the craddle happy days