2WD L6 Cosworth electrical fault :(
#1
2WD L6 Cosworth electrical fault :(
I dont really know how to go about explaining the range of faults I have had but at the minute I currently have the Ecu and engine side of the loom disconnected with exception of the ignition amplifier which is stillconnected and also the 9 pin plug that connects the engine loom to the interior loom (about a 2 feet away from the ECU multiplug) and am getting battery voltage on pin 1 of the ecu.
Can anyone offer any suggestions as to where I should be looking to find this earth voltage
windows 7 screenshot
or can give me a pin out of the engine loom to interior loom multiplug.
free image hosting
any help would be very much appreciated
Can anyone offer any suggestions as to where I should be looking to find this earth voltage
windows 7 screenshot
or can give me a pin out of the engine loom to interior loom multiplug.
free image hosting
any help would be very much appreciated
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
What were the problems you were having? It depends what earth you're looking for, if it's the switched earth then you may only see it intermittently depending on where you're looking. The system operates a +12v and switched earth. The link posted above will be a good starting point.
#4
well I had rebuilt the head and have had a never ending plague of elecrical faults.
Until recently it would run until it warmed up then overfuelled and flooded itself until it stalled.
My map, water temp sensor (back of head) and tps meter out,
I am getting a spark (good white spark and plugs gapped to 0.6)
I am getting an soild injector pulse (tested with noid light)
I am getting fuel.
Everything seemed good but it wouldnt start. I was starting to think that the fuel had maybe gone off so I drained the tank. Out of curiosity, I stuck the pump into the drained pan of fuel and it ran and revved freely.
I then stuck 20 litres of fresh juice in it, changed the fuel pump and filter and It wouldnt start since.
When I was looking in around the ecu because there was a kill switch fitted to the ecu i noticed that the ecu was arcing against the abs ecu. thats when I found battery voltage on pin 1, which should be earth. I then started checking through the loom and found that I was also getting battery voltage on the two earths that are bolted to the throttle cable bracket.
Until recently it would run until it warmed up then overfuelled and flooded itself until it stalled.
My map, water temp sensor (back of head) and tps meter out,
I am getting a spark (good white spark and plugs gapped to 0.6)
I am getting an soild injector pulse (tested with noid light)
I am getting fuel.
Everything seemed good but it wouldnt start. I was starting to think that the fuel had maybe gone off so I drained the tank. Out of curiosity, I stuck the pump into the drained pan of fuel and it ran and revved freely.
I then stuck 20 litres of fresh juice in it, changed the fuel pump and filter and It wouldnt start since.
When I was looking in around the ecu because there was a kill switch fitted to the ecu i noticed that the ecu was arcing against the abs ecu. thats when I found battery voltage on pin 1, which should be earth. I then started checking through the loom and found that I was also getting battery voltage on the two earths that are bolted to the throttle cable bracket.
#5
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (2)
To be honest it sounds like your ecu could be fucked, I would send it away to MSD or similar to get it tested and save yourself the hassle of blindly trying to trace the wiring fault. One way or another it will tell you where or where not to look. Have you checked pin 19, that should also be earth. I find it starange why nothing seems to read -ve, in theory it wouldn't work if there was no earth signal anywhere.
A side note on the plugs, they can foul very easy and not start even after you clean them if the plugs have been really badly effected, I've had this happen many times, trying to fault find, change the plugs and boom it's away again.
Not trying to complicate your issue, but also items like a bad regulator could also cause it to over fuel, so there may be more than one underlying issue.
Where are you based?
A side note on the plugs, they can foul very easy and not start even after you clean them if the plugs have been really badly effected, I've had this happen many times, trying to fault find, change the plugs and boom it's away again.
Not trying to complicate your issue, but also items like a bad regulator could also cause it to over fuel, so there may be more than one underlying issue.
Where are you based?
Last edited by rog; 19-02-2014 at 09:11 AM.
#7
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
The power supply comes via the 'ECU relay', from that small connector you mention.
When you say you have the loom disconnected, do you mean you have removed the multiplug, or the actual loom?
What you are seeing is normal if you have the ignition switched on, you should also have power at the fuel pump injectors?
Martin
When you say you have the loom disconnected, do you mean you have removed the multiplug, or the actual loom?
What you are seeing is normal if you have the ignition switched on, you should also have power at the fuel pump injectors?
Martin
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#8
rog ----- I changed to a brand new set of motorcraft plugs and she still isnt playing ball but whenever i disconnect the injectors she will fire up briefly and run for a few seconds before dying out again. I have a new fuel pump, filter and pump relay as well as a sard regulator and still cant get it running. 3.5 bar with no vacumn. I have stuck the ecu in the post to msd so hopefully get that back asap and then try and see what happens from there (ps im in Edinburgh)
opposite lock ----- I am very tempted to buy a new loom...... VERY TEMPTED
martysmartie ----- I disconnected all sensors from the loom, tps, cps, temp sensors, coil, map etc and left only the ignition amplifier and interior connector (the first picture) I think i might have been getting confused with looking at the resistance between pin 19 and ground and pin voltage and ground
Hopefully MSD can point me in the right direction a this is doing my head in
opposite lock ----- I am very tempted to buy a new loom...... VERY TEMPTED
martysmartie ----- I disconnected all sensors from the loom, tps, cps, temp sensors, coil, map etc and left only the ignition amplifier and interior connector (the first picture) I think i might have been getting confused with looking at the resistance between pin 19 and ground and pin voltage and ground
Hopefully MSD can point me in the right direction a this is doing my head in
#10
Yes it is. I am getting 3.5 bar with no vacuum whilst cranking, I have fitted a new pump and filter, I have also drained the petrol tank and replaced what I thought could potentially be stale fuel.
I changed the water temp sensor, checked the map sensor and broke the nipple so replaced it anyway.( both meter out fine though I didn't like the idea of using one I had glued back together) and my tps meters out.
Just got the all clear on the ecu from MSD and I have to openly thank them for how quickly they checked it and the help they offered!!
I am stumped! I feel like I'm chasing my tail or overlooking something obvious.... Starting to crack up lol
I changed the water temp sensor, checked the map sensor and broke the nipple so replaced it anyway.( both meter out fine though I didn't like the idea of using one I had glued back together) and my tps meters out.
Just got the all clear on the ecu from MSD and I have to openly thank them for how quickly they checked it and the help they offered!!
I am stumped! I feel like I'm chasing my tail or overlooking something obvious.... Starting to crack up lol
#13
I have gotten everything back in and running and have managed to get her to fire up with the wasted spark kit though I am overfuelling that badly that I have had to reduce the fuel pressure to 1 bar on idle
So far I have replaced the maf (i broke the nipple on my original hilst checking with my vacum pump) the water temp sensor on the back of the head and the tps looks like it is metering out fine.
I am really struggling for ideas lol
So far I have replaced the maf (i broke the nipple on my original hilst checking with my vacum pump) the water temp sensor on the back of the head and the tps looks like it is metering out fine.
I am really struggling for ideas lol
#14
ive changed loom on my car as I got fed up of problems like that . could drive car all day no problem but if driving in traffic or slowly in town she would strart to splutter and then cut out till I let it cool down .I assumed it was over fueling but how would you know .I had changed everything without any success.loom now changed but now hace issue with iscv but original problem gone ,
#19
Yes, ive already been down that road haha one injector permantly opened!
Im pretty sure that eveything else is connected as should be.
Thats the first time Ive had it started in a long while now. Getting a nice clean pulse across all four injectors. Ive changed all the vac hoses as well for fresh silicon. I also thought that the return feed might have been forcing the pressure up so It is currently returning straight back to the tank through the filler neck and a length of hose.
Im pretty sure that eveything else is connected as should be.
Thats the first time Ive had it started in a long while now. Getting a nice clean pulse across all four injectors. Ive changed all the vac hoses as well for fresh silicon. I also thought that the return feed might have been forcing the pressure up so It is currently returning straight back to the tank through the filler neck and a length of hose.
#21
Its been a while since I was at the car, finally got a few hours tonight and discovered that I am leaking sheilding to my MAP sensor.
First I should be getting a maximum of 600Ohms across pins 30 to 31 (map sensor supply) and I am getting 743Ohms
also according to the checklist:
MAP sensor cable shielding Off Pins 11, 30, 15 Engine ground Infinite Resistance for all pins should be infinite. If not infinite there's a leak between the cable shield and core. Cable(s) then need to be replaced.
Im currently getting 28, 37 and 39 MOhms. This is pretty damn high but not infinite.
Any ideas on whether thats low enough to cause really heavy overfuelling?
First I should be getting a maximum of 600Ohms across pins 30 to 31 (map sensor supply) and I am getting 743Ohms
also according to the checklist:
MAP sensor cable shielding Off Pins 11, 30, 15 Engine ground Infinite Resistance for all pins should be infinite. If not infinite there's a leak between the cable shield and core. Cable(s) then need to be replaced.
Im currently getting 28, 37 and 39 MOhms. This is pretty damn high but not infinite.
Any ideas on whether thats low enough to cause really heavy overfuelling?
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