cooper ring gaskets...any good
#2
Upto a point they are ......
However the block requires machining so the ring wire fits correctly , they have be known to leak though ....... I think Spadge had some issue with them
Also there are some inferior versions which are cack
If you ever need to revert back to a normal gasket the block will require decking
However the block requires machining so the ring wire fits correctly , they have be known to leak though ....... I think Spadge had some issue with them
Also there are some inferior versions which are cack
If you ever need to revert back to a normal gasket the block will require decking
#4
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Gus yours was sposed to be wire rung then!
Coopers block..AVOID at all costs..the copy gaskets leak...the proper gaskets cost as much as the WRC gasket but are inferior IMO and experience!
Coopers block..AVOID at all costs..the copy gaskets leak...the proper gaskets cost as much as the WRC gasket but are inferior IMO and experience!
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#8
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The problem being the person converting it has to be SHIT HOT and you HAVE to use the proper gasket (Ł350 ish)...and IMO there is no need to use old technology now the WRC multi layer gasket is avalible.
I blew a copy and a genuine one!!!!
I blew a copy and a genuine one!!!!
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had one on my old saff and have to say was very happy with it,was only running 350bhp,ish but never let me down,now mate has car and he has just had light blues and new chip put in and all is well.
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why do people beleive cos a headgasket blows it's shite, perhaps your engine isnt particulary well setup or has been incorrectly spec'd for the use. think of the head gasket as a safety net
here's a lil something i typed up from a book of mine for another forum
really need to decide as to why a gasket fails to decide if it's a case of it not substanstial enough.
Rob
here's a lil something i typed up from a book of mine for another forum
Examining Gasket Failures
A careful examination of every component and joint during disassembly reveals considerable information about the engine's operation. This examination certainly includes the head gasket. Handling it on disassembly must be done with extreme care, to preserve evidence of pending failures or even of correct function. A five-power magnifying glass, a strong light, and a micrometer will aid inspection.
Combustion leakage
Examine the armor of the gasket for signs of leakage, as evidenced by streaks across the armor or a fuzzy edge at the line where the gasket contacts the block or head Streaks are pending failures. If the lines of contact is distinct and no streaks are apparent, the seal is working well. If otherwise, look toward increasing clamp-up on the head.
Dings in the armor
Virtually the only possibility for banging up the armor band of the gasket is detonation. This is not a gasket-related problem, but the evidence of the gasket suggests that the engine control system is not working at optimum.
Cracks in the armor
If the armor cracks, one must look at how the armor band can flex up and down. This can occur only if the head moves up and down with combustion pressure. The relaxing and clamping applied to the gasket's armor can create fatigue crack in short order in a piece of material never intended to be fatigue resistant. Look for solutions in the area of deck stiffness and clamp-up force.
Diameter changes in the armor
If detonation is allowed to pound on the gaskets yet doesnt completely fracture the armor band, you can bet the bore diameter will be a bit bigger than when it was created. Measure and record the before-and-after dimensions. If changes in excess of 0.005 inch are noted, look for other signs to corroberate the presence of detonation.
Thickness variation
If the cylinder head and block were infinitely stiff and all fasteners absolutely equal in tension, postmortem examination would disclose a gasket of uniform thickness. if these conditions do not exist, evidence of local problems can be deduced from variations of thickness across the gasket. Check thickness in an area within 0.25 inch of the head fasteners. They should be equal within 0.002 inch. Spaces between fasteners ought not to be more than 0.004 inch thicker than those next to the fasteners.These variations reveal problems with deck stiffness or consistancy of head fastener tension. In persuing fixes, aim at getting all thickness variations within 0.002-0.003 inch. this may dictate fastener torque changes for each fastener. Where a section is thicker, try an extra 5 foot-pounds of torque at that fastener, and where thinner, relax the torque by 5. Also, where a thicker gasket section is found, look for localized deformations in the block and head coinciding with that section of the gasket.
Heat discoloration of the armor
If the armor band shows a bluish-black color that won't scrape off with a fingernail, something is running too hot. Likely the coolant flow around the exhaust port area is not quite adequate. For fixes, one needs to consult a professional engine builder.
Coolant sealing
Each coolant transfer port must be examined for equal compression and migration of coolant across the gasket. seepage will leave uneven or fuzzy outlines around the coolant port. Look for local deformations in the deck surfaces and consider the ports proximity to a fastener that could receive a slightly higher torquing. As a last resort, use a sealant locally around the port.
The above information is taken from articles by Jerry Rosenquist, of Fel-Pro
A careful examination of every component and joint during disassembly reveals considerable information about the engine's operation. This examination certainly includes the head gasket. Handling it on disassembly must be done with extreme care, to preserve evidence of pending failures or even of correct function. A five-power magnifying glass, a strong light, and a micrometer will aid inspection.
Combustion leakage
Examine the armor of the gasket for signs of leakage, as evidenced by streaks across the armor or a fuzzy edge at the line where the gasket contacts the block or head Streaks are pending failures. If the lines of contact is distinct and no streaks are apparent, the seal is working well. If otherwise, look toward increasing clamp-up on the head.
Dings in the armor
Virtually the only possibility for banging up the armor band of the gasket is detonation. This is not a gasket-related problem, but the evidence of the gasket suggests that the engine control system is not working at optimum.
Cracks in the armor
If the armor cracks, one must look at how the armor band can flex up and down. This can occur only if the head moves up and down with combustion pressure. The relaxing and clamping applied to the gasket's armor can create fatigue crack in short order in a piece of material never intended to be fatigue resistant. Look for solutions in the area of deck stiffness and clamp-up force.
Diameter changes in the armor
If detonation is allowed to pound on the gaskets yet doesnt completely fracture the armor band, you can bet the bore diameter will be a bit bigger than when it was created. Measure and record the before-and-after dimensions. If changes in excess of 0.005 inch are noted, look for other signs to corroberate the presence of detonation.
Thickness variation
If the cylinder head and block were infinitely stiff and all fasteners absolutely equal in tension, postmortem examination would disclose a gasket of uniform thickness. if these conditions do not exist, evidence of local problems can be deduced from variations of thickness across the gasket. Check thickness in an area within 0.25 inch of the head fasteners. They should be equal within 0.002 inch. Spaces between fasteners ought not to be more than 0.004 inch thicker than those next to the fasteners.These variations reveal problems with deck stiffness or consistancy of head fastener tension. In persuing fixes, aim at getting all thickness variations within 0.002-0.003 inch. this may dictate fastener torque changes for each fastener. Where a section is thicker, try an extra 5 foot-pounds of torque at that fastener, and where thinner, relax the torque by 5. Also, where a thicker gasket section is found, look for localized deformations in the block and head coinciding with that section of the gasket.
Heat discoloration of the armor
If the armor band shows a bluish-black color that won't scrape off with a fingernail, something is running too hot. Likely the coolant flow around the exhaust port area is not quite adequate. For fixes, one needs to consult a professional engine builder.
Coolant sealing
Each coolant transfer port must be examined for equal compression and migration of coolant across the gasket. seepage will leave uneven or fuzzy outlines around the coolant port. Look for local deformations in the deck surfaces and consider the ports proximity to a fastener that could receive a slightly higher torquing. As a last resort, use a sealant locally around the port.
The above information is taken from articles by Jerry Rosenquist, of Fel-Pro
Rob
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Oh dont worry i KNOW what caused my failures!!!!!..It was taking advice from a certain tuner who claims its ok to run std head bolts on a T4 running 34psi held!!!
HOWEVER...as i have said...and what you kinda posted Rob...they have to be machined in correctly and installed correctly....which i beleive mine were as they lasted fine until i cranked the boost up....and got a cracked block around the middle six bolt holes for my trouble which kinda proves head lift.
Ryan you would big them up seeing as your trying to flog a copper rung block!...Incidentally i paid Ł175 for my ringed RS500 plant pot with new liners ready for pistons.
HOWEVER...as i have said...and what you kinda posted Rob...they have to be machined in correctly and installed correctly....which i beleive mine were as they lasted fine until i cranked the boost up....and got a cracked block around the middle six bolt holes for my trouble which kinda proves head lift.
Ryan you would big them up seeing as your trying to flog a copper rung block!...Incidentally i paid Ł175 for my ringed RS500 plant pot with new liners ready for pistons.
#16
Originally Posted by ImaRacing 700
Deano do you understand how much the block would have to be decked?..Its ALOT....i know as i currently run a decked ex wire rung block
Or to put it another way , would you advise decking the block ?
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Deano in my application it was perfect (having a decked ex wire rung block)as i wanted higher comp...so by using my already bought 7.2-1 pistons machined a bit it gave me 7.9-1
TBH there is nowt wrong in decking at all..but maybe getting coopers rings out is a little too much from getting a sensible comp ratio?
TBH there is nowt wrong in decking at all..but maybe getting coopers rings out is a little too much from getting a sensible comp ratio?
#18
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Yeh i was told decking the block would raise the compression ratio to much so went for a new block instead ps 1 200 block for sale,machined for long throw crank and coopers ring gasket.
#20
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but how do i know the right cooper gasket is used....
the engine what im talking about has just been rebuild (done 3000km)....
and its a 400bhp engine......
i just wanna know for sure its done properly....
the engine what im talking about has just been rebuild (done 3000km)....
and its a 400bhp engine......
i just wanna know for sure its done properly....
#23
20K+ Super Poster.
the way i see it is that there are now gaskets available that are as good if not better than ringed ones, they cost the same money, theyre reusable ( well... ) they require less work to be installed, and they do not make the use of any other type of gasket at a later date impossible.
so why still run one?
so why still run one?
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