radiant red

i have just replaced my damaged bd14 inlet with another brand new bd14 inlet,my exhaust cam is standard.Now im gonna have a go at dialing them into what it reccomends in the KENT book and see how it goes,is this the way everyone does it or is it a case of finding the best settings for the engine.

I have ported head,T38 etc etc running 30+psi.


Ta much

GARETH T

just get the full lift measurement from your tuner as many do drift around witht he timing

radiant red

well i were gonna try the KENT recomended setting of i think it was something llike 2.2mm at TDC



times like this i wish i had a 4x4 rolling road lol

Rich_w

I cant say for your specific engine. But Ive always been told the following for dialing a cam in. And Ive never been told in terms of mm's only ever angles.

1) Find ABSOLUTE TDC. Use a DTI gauge down the spark plug hole. The marks on the block may be a fraction out due to manufacturing tolerances.

2) Put the printed protractor on the crank. And working from TDC turn the crank to the set angle that cam manufacturer recommends. Normally somehting between 90 an 115 degrees

3) Turn the camshaft and using a run out gauge get it to absolute maximum lift (that should be the middle if the lobe)

4) Bung the belt on. And make sure nothing has moved. If it has then use the movement in the vernier pulley to get back to those "perfect" settings.

5) Turn the engine over BY HAND (by turning the CRANK not the CAM) a couple of times and recheck the settings.

If thats wrong I'd love to know the other way

Butch.

iTrader: (1)

ring stu at msd he will help you out he did it last time

GARETH T

Rich_w

i never turn a crank or cam over without having a belt fitted!

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

Im not explaining in depth how to do cam timing correctly on the phone to anyone who fancies a chat Butch, behave.

radiant red

dont be so scared

radiant red

i know how to set the cams up no worries there,just hoping for some experiences etc mate

GARETH T

would it bring back bad memory's of IMA a few years ago?

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

With the greatest respect in teh world pal, you thinking the figures above could ever remotely represent a cam timing figure are what made me think you didnt know how to set the cams properly using teh right equiptment. You would presumably know that you should be measuring degrees of crankshaft rotation against full valve lift positioning... Appologies if its just a typo...

The worry here, for me, is that you are doing this on a pretty high comp YB with a Turbo Technics T38, big ported head and about 8.5:1 compression ratio and i know for a fact that if you get it wrong its going to melt like a mars bar in a furnace as that motor was pretty flat out when i finished mapping it and the map and fuelling didnt have much room left in it for you to start moving its peak VE point around, as you will if you get the timing wrong.

If you wish to proceed, i will PM you the peak lift figures when i am at work, as i wil have made a note in the maps, but i will need you to send me the serial number from teh chip first please.

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

New Topic:
"Cam timing worries...."
Man, funny times...

GARETH T

i remember it well

radiant red

thats very kind of you stu


i am reffering to the method given in the kent handbook as supplied by burton on purchase of a cam.

Method 2 in the book is the way we all know and do and the other way is much easier although im sure there must be flaws....

1.Set engine to TDC on no1 cylinder
2.position a clock gauge on the inlet follower and turn the cam to achive the specific lift (i.e 2.72mm)
For a bd14 they recomend 0.66mm (god knows where i got 2mm from)

Rich_w

Gareth, remember that you've rotated the engine by 90 degrees or so in step 2. So when the valves open and close there'll be enough clearence so as not to touch the pistons.

GARETH T

depends on your starting point,, its not good practice to just move the crank about!

im always very careful as a slight slip of the mind,, and you have fucked your valves

radiant red

Right my serial number is 3220 or maybe 322u,i have posted a pic.

Thanks again

col cos1

iTrader: (5)

i had ava dial mine in on the rollers,20 runs and 3 hours later and what a diffrence

sbd16v

oh bumma was going to give you a call tomorrow about this

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

I would advise you set the timing to the specified figure stu gives you on cylinder 1 then check cylinder 4 and see if it is the same.There are some seriously poorly ground inaccurate cams around

GARETH T

thats one thing ive never check! next time i do a cam, ill have a go!

Turbosystems

iTrader: (5)

I have been doing it that way for 25 years lol
genuine cosworth cams were always absolutely cock on but they haven't made them for years

jaimesdna

iTrader: (3)

when i fit my cams (bd16 inlet & standard exhaust) i was just gonna set them to original ford setting then let the mapper adjust the verniers. is this a good idea or not?

GARETH T

why not set them as you fit them? how can you set them to standard ford settings, as you wont be using the standard ford timing marks, ie the cam pulleys

jaimesdna

iTrader: (3)

i was just gonna put the standard cam pullys on, mark the cams, take the pullys off & fit the verniers & check the cams havent moved from the marks i make. then just fit the belt as normal & get the mapper to adjust the verniers. i dont know how to set cams up with a dial gauge or what the setting should be for my engine/cams

Stu @ M Developments

iTrader: (12)

This topic is 2 years old.

JjCoDeX75

I reckon he is draggin the job out!!!! ROFOL

JJ