djmarkyttt

Hiya peps

I had my 2wd cosworth a yr now n its been running fine. How ever the last 2 weeks it keeps breaking down.
the problem started when I had the alternate recond.

It normally starts straight away. But then when it got really hot it wud break down.
Leave it ten and it wud start. However the prob got worse. Break Down all the time and now it dnt start at all!!!!!:@

When I do a flash light test it gives me a 1-3 code which is a pulse prob.

I had now changed over the the last 2 weeks
Crank sensor
Phase sensor
Water sensor
Coil
Ingnition amp
Rotor arm
It didnt start at all now . Its not giving me a code. Its getting petrol but I cant get a spark
Please please help me. I dnt know wot eles 2 try......
Thanx

Paul_RS

iTrader: (4)

It could be a problem with the wiring loom?

djmarkyttt

I had tried unpluging both the phase n crank sensor with the ignition on. And it pressurized. Iv tried a wiggle test.
Im not giving any error flash codes at all but no spark.
Last week if I unplugged the king ht lead itl give me the same 1-3 code it gives me when id break dwn.
How ever today it doesnt.

how does it create the spark? Thru wot process? Am I gona have 2 start testing n bypassing wires?
Any ideas? Thanx

djmarkyttt

Has any1 got any ideas please ? Its doing my head in

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

I dont see on the list a dizzy cap like i told you . have you cheaked the coil to see if you get a spark from it and 12V at all so is there an alarm on the car that might be playing up

djmarkyttt

Ill try n buy a dizzy cap then thanx Ian.

djmarkyttt

Thanx 4 the pm,Ian . Iv also been speaking 2 Matt Lewis. He sed it cud b simply the heat sink on the back of my ignition amp so iv got sum of that 2. Will try after work

djmarkyttt

Still no joy. Got brand new dizzy and put heat sync on my ignition amp and iv just got no spark. The coils recieving a good 10th v single but just seems not to be out putting anything. Iv gaped the phase sensor again. Its not giving any fault codes. The crank sensor has resistance but no voltage while cranking. Same as the phase. Its getting petrol. Pumps running. So its not the crank. Im more inclined to be looking at the coil n amp now. I just dnt know . I dnt know what eles to try. Any ideas pleaseeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

JZEE

I had something similar but was doing it intermittently - turned out if was the wiring going to the ignition amp module was brittle. Resoldered it and seems fine now.

Check it out just in case - you could try to wiggle the ignition amp whilst cranking.

djmarkyttt

Thanx. Had tried this already . I have been tryin 2 test wires again. The +12 v to the amp is fine so is the is ground. Cant seem 2 get any signal from wires 24 n 25 at the amp and ecu. Dnt know if I should be tho ?!!!!!! :-S .
I am lost totally!!!!!
Im prity sure all the sensors are fine. They all have resistance and the fuel pumps pumping.
Y cnt I get a spark even frm the coil?!!! Any ideas please? Thanx :-S

djmarkyttt

Iv been reading up about the amp. Wire 24 is a reference ground and 25 is a signal that should rise 2 3 v to cause the coil 2 spark. Now I cudnt get any readings from these wires last nite but will try again later. Now iv got 2 amps which were both working.
Does any1 know how 2 check these amps and has any1 got any other ideas? Thanx

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

The coil's receiving 10 volts? Should be at least 12.

might be worth peeling back the 20years worth of black tape that's wrapped around the coil VE wires and make sure they've not been broken in the past and held together with hope, much like this:



(Picture from this thread: https://passionford.com/forum/genera...t-updated.html)

MattFRSMK2

double check your rotor arm

djmarkyttt

Im thinking it mite be The amp. Im skint till next week now tho. I mite try another rotor arm 2 Matt so ill prob give u a call Monday 4 them Matt thanks

oldford

Code 13 is a problem with the crank sensor or the phase sensor. The ecu can't figure out if it's getting too many pulses or too few.
Check teeth on the crank trigger wheel. Or measure signals with a scope.
As long as this problem is not solved the engine will not fire up. It will not be getting a spark untill the ecu has the correct pattern from the crankshaft sensor and phase sensor.

djmarkyttt

Update.
After reading up about the ignition amp iv checked all the wires again. All seems fine. Iv got a good ground. A good live there is a reference ground but it loses abit of voltage while cranking.
Now the signal seems fine. It holds a small 0.3 volt 2 charge the coil then when I crank it gives plush at about 3 volt. This is also the Same at the coil !!!!!
Which means the coil is recieving the correct signals 2 spark how ever it doesnt even 2 the negative 2 the battery!!!!!!!!. So is it the coil now? Seems like it

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

But on your list you said you have put a coil on ?????

BigErn

Check that all 4 lugs are still on the bottom pulley.... My sapph broke down once and I got towed home, checked all sensors etc after it wouldnt restart and even checked the timing. I ended up randomly messing around and noticed one of the lugs looked shorter, changed the pulley and it fired up first time.

djmarkyttt

I did. I borrowd 1 but I must have had 2 problems because it was giving me flash code errors then

djmarkyttt

No good still this is really doin my head in now. :@ arhhhhh

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

So wot have you done today

djmarkyttt

Iv put a new coil on it its recieving signals and its out putting. Like 8volts but. Its still wnt spark direct 2 ground.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

have a look throw this link
it might help you
www.bigturbo.co.uk

djmarkyttt

Thanx Ian but I found this site a while ago. Im just lost totally.
Im not getting any flash code errors now unless I unplug stuff. The coils got 12v. But I just cant get a spark. I just dnt know wot 2 do

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

are all your gaps right they are very small only 0.2 - 0.3 mm on the phase

fraser9764

iTrader: (3)

Wahey I'm Famous

djmarkyttt

I think so m8 iv dun it with fag paper lol . But I keep swaping phase sensors and im not getting any flash codes

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

this might help

djmarkyttt

Thanx. I get down to check 10 and cant get any voltage while cranking but I have resistance on both phase and crank sensors. I dont understand why the crank wud give a 2v while cranking? Its beyond me this. :-S .
So iv got 12v and signals 2 the coil. It coil out puts like 10th v + but wot spark to ground or negative battery.
Iv checked both king ht leads iv got. But still I charge a spark and the cpu is not giving any fault codes now unless I unplug sensors.

Cud it be a doggy rotor arm? How do I check that? Any other ideas or help? Thanks

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

The CPS and Phase are inductive sensors, which means they're magnets. When a piece of metal passes a magnet, it creates an electrical current in the magnet. This is called induction. When the teeth on the crank pulley or distributor shaft pass the sensors, a small AC voltage is created.

This is what the ECU watches to determine crank position and phase: the incoming AC voltage from the two sensors. If the gap is too wide between the teeth and the sensor, the current isn't generated, or is generated but is too weak. This is why gapping them correctly is important.

Moving the car in gear can be an arse - get yourself a 2ft breaker bar with a 1 inch socket and stick it on the crank pulley bolt and use that to turn the engine with very little effort.


The pics from my coil upgrade weren't quite as spectacular

djmarkyttt

Thanx 4 that. Now I hav tried to gap the sensors properly and Im not getting any flash codes super. But is this a guaranty that the cpu is recieving the signals?

Should I try increasing the gap 2 see?
I hav been swaping between the crank and phase sensors I have with no luck

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Are they new crank and phase and not second hand off EBAY

djmarkyttt

Yes there band new off Matt same as the dizzy. The rotor arm was new from car spares. The 2 ignition amps iv got arnt new but they both was working

djmarkyttt

So im gona try moving the sensors away and increasing the gap, after work 2 c if it starts giving me flash codes. The only other thing I cud try is buying a new ignition amp. I am lost now. If that fails im gona have 2 take it somewherer like puma build next week

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Gap the crank sensor to between 0.6mm and 1.0mm. Gap the phase sensor to betwen 0.2mm and 0.3mm. Don't try opening them up any wider as you'll just make things difficult for yourself.

Don't waste time mixing and matching the phase and crank sensor plugs. Unless your loom's really "special" the phase sensor's loom plug should be black, and the crank sensor's plug should be white, and both should only be long enough to reach the right place.

Before you do anything else, put everything back to how it was before - because at least then, it was working, albeit intermittently. I think what you've ended up doing here is becoming lost after changing everything in the hope it'll work - what you need to do now is take a step back and approach it logically. The problem with an intermittent or deteriorating type fault is it's always going to be hard to find unless you're logical about it.

Instead of typing a miniature essay, Ford already did the hard work, so here's a link to a document you will find useful: http://www.bluecossie.com/downloads/...%20Finding.pdf

herbcosworth

reverse polarity on battery? are all the wires on pos side got a good conection?

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Having read the first post again...

This only happened after you had the alternator reconditioned, right?

If so, two things: 1) was the regulator replaced as part of the reconditioning? 2) is the big fat battery lead connected securely to the correct terminal on the alternator?

As you're getting such low voltages (10v you mention in places), I'd suggest you've got a crap regulator - even without the engine running you should get about 12.4 volts across the battery.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Im behind you on all this stuff you are saying as iv been telling mark start from the begining and stop looking into it to deep and get all the gaps right . i all so told mark to get his alternator re checked as you said it only started after it was reconditioned . i do no mark and this car as about 1 year back the motor in it spun a shell and it rebilt the motor for him and pulled all the favers i could and the motor fired up first turn of the key so all way good when it left me . Plus Dont use Puma build there no good with cosworth use martin/reyland + he is over your side of Birmingham

djmarkyttt

Cheers guys . The more I think about it the more I think iv burnt my ignition amp out due to it no longer having heat sink on the back. At 1 point I broke dwn and put my old 1 on. And it ran but like a bag of shit. I had 2 keep it reving. After which iv put the old 1 back on n it ran ok for 2 days b4 finally cranking out 4 the last time. my king ht lead doesnt spark 2 ground. And thats the last thing I can try really now. But it kind of makes sence with the heat thing dont it.

I havnt tried n wnt try swaping the leads to the crank n phase sensor, I didnt mean that. I ment swaping the sensors them selves.

Im gona have a little play again 2 nite but I need 2 try a new ignition amp now really

cozmeister

iTrader: (1)

Oops, my misunderstanding

I reckon you'll crack it soon - just do it one bit at a time.