3 door brakes AGAIN
#1
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
3 door brakes AGAIN
Brake problem again !!! took the car out today and when i pulled up in the garage the front ns wheel is to hot to touch and both rear calipers although replaced last year are brakeing all the time, like driving with two flat tyres and when you pull up at the lights you dont need to brake . Now is this because there not bled properly or what????? any help would be great because im at the point where im just going to buy complete new brakes all round as its getting on my tits
Last edited by Harris.; 24-04-2011 at 02:23 PM.
#2
The front one is obviously binding for some reason, has the car been stood a long while ?, if so the heat should help free it off.
The rears sound like the e brake setting has not been done correctly, and is on, what is the travel like on it.
Some pads can be a bit "hairy" and need a few miles to knock off the high spots and come loose, found on ebc pads with new discs I often needed to do a light file on the pad first, but now they have the fab break in coating this sorts it all out.
tabetha
The rears sound like the e brake setting has not been done correctly, and is on, what is the travel like on it.
Some pads can be a bit "hairy" and need a few miles to knock off the high spots and come loose, found on ebc pads with new discs I often needed to do a light file on the pad first, but now they have the fab break in coating this sorts it all out.
tabetha
#3
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
The front one is obviously binding for some reason, has the car been stood a long while ?, if so the heat should help free it off.
The rears sound like the e brake setting has not been done correctly, and is on, what is the travel like on it.
Some pads can be a bit "hairy" and need a few miles to knock off the high spots and come loose, found on ebc pads with new discs I often needed to do a light file on the pad first, but now they have the fab break in coating this sorts it all out.
tabetha
The rears sound like the e brake setting has not been done correctly, and is on, what is the travel like on it.
Some pads can be a bit "hairy" and need a few miles to knock off the high spots and come loose, found on ebc pads with new discs I often needed to do a light file on the pad first, but now they have the fab break in coating this sorts it all out.
tabetha
#5
"e brake", sorry blame my yank buddies, it means Emergency Brake, what they call the handbrake!!
Did you wind back the pistons/check they were wound back in the rear calipers ?
tabetha
Did you wind back the pistons/check they were wound back in the rear calipers ?
tabetha
#6
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
Quite good at this (Even if I do say so myself haha) as I have just done mine, if the brake pedal feels "Spongy" this would indicate air in the system, or lack of pressure, you did bleed the system I take it?
If the rears are binding I would first question your handbrake, there is a specific way of setting the handbrake, I.E not just pulling it up when the calipers are fitted, you need to push the pedal vigorously several times with the ignition on to set the self adjusters, otherwise the handbrake won't work properly, it should be easy to see just by looking at the handbrake mechanism if it's still engaged with the handbrake off, in which case you have the cable to tight!
The other thing that is commonly neglected are the sliders, these are a servicable item!
Take them out and make sure they are not rusty and lubricate them, they should be able to do there job as the name suggests and be able freely slide in and out, these will sieze if neglected!
As for the fronts as said most likely one sides siezed, again not uncommon!
Martin
If the rears are binding I would first question your handbrake, there is a specific way of setting the handbrake, I.E not just pulling it up when the calipers are fitted, you need to push the pedal vigorously several times with the ignition on to set the self adjusters, otherwise the handbrake won't work properly, it should be easy to see just by looking at the handbrake mechanism if it's still engaged with the handbrake off, in which case you have the cable to tight!
The other thing that is commonly neglected are the sliders, these are a servicable item!
Take them out and make sure they are not rusty and lubricate them, they should be able to do there job as the name suggests and be able freely slide in and out, these will sieze if neglected!
As for the fronts as said most likely one sides siezed, again not uncommon!
Martin
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#8
PassionFord Post Whore!!
Thread Starter
Ive still not got round to this , so im going to start it tomorrow . do i wind the piston all the way in and do i slacken the handbrake cable off ?
A brake newb guide from start to finish would be handy if anyone has the time.
A brake newb guide from start to finish would be handy if anyone has the time.
#9
PassionFord Post Whore!!
iTrader: (1)
I would try slakening the handbrake adjuster first as it's simple to do, release the handbrake (You will need to anyway) and with the offending wheel in the air rotate it, going by what your describing it will be hard to turn as it's binding!
This is on the passenger side of the car and you need to undo the locking nut first (Nearest the back of the car)
Haynes procedure to adjust it is to mark on the lever and the caliper and then start tighening the cable, just until the lever moves and without the wheel binding, if it does then loosen off a little!
Don't get confused though as the rears are hard to turn due to the LSD but even so you will still notice!
On my recon calipers I still had to wind in a couple of turns!
Martin
This is on the passenger side of the car and you need to undo the locking nut first (Nearest the back of the car)
Haynes procedure to adjust it is to mark on the lever and the caliper and then start tighening the cable, just until the lever moves and without the wheel binding, if it does then loosen off a little!
Don't get confused though as the rears are hard to turn due to the LSD but even so you will still notice!
On my recon calipers I still had to wind in a couple of turns!
Martin
Last edited by martysmartie; 18-06-2011 at 05:11 PM.
#10
Get both rear wheels off and the car supported in neutral you will soon see the difference between drag caused by the lsd and brake bind, you should get a fairly easy turn of the disc at it's outer edge of about 1", certainly by hand when grabbing the bell part of the disc, although infrequent use can make these VERY tight due to rust etc, mine took around 50 miles before all traces of rust were gone and they were easy to turn the 1" or so.
tabetha
tabetha
#11
sideways all the way!
ive had new pads on my saff,the brakes were serviced all round,and i dumped in back in garage for a month,took it out the other day and back brakes got mega hot in a mile or two,could they have seized back on?
how long does it take to strip a car and is there a certain way to do it?
how long does it take to strip a car and is there a certain way to do it?
#13
sideways all the way!
no pal,i never put the handbrake on when its in garage,and ive not jacked it up to check,just nipped out in it felt they were redhot lost me rag and dumped in back in garage,im going to strip it for parts i think,but the brakes got completely stripped and sorted so its pissed me off that their acting up again.
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