Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

I'm starting to lose the plot with this gearbox

After having it repaired (selector shaft jammed up with swarf from a damaged fork) and finally getting my car back on the road with its new zetec engine it is still giving me issues.
I'm running a hydraulic clutch conversion with a brand new AP clutch. The biting point of the clutch is in the first 1/4 of the pedals travel. The gearbox has exactly the recomended amount of Ford specific gear oil in it.

Changing into 2nd, 3rd and 4th feel really notchy, almost like pushing it through a edged gate. Could this be down to the linkage not being aligned correctly?

Everytime I adjust it the gear change feels absolutely fine on the driveway, until the car starts moving then it seems to get worse and worse.

mrbox

we had the same problem with our s2 race car it was solved by using the linkage from a rs2000 with a mtx75 with the selector rods cut and welded to fit. is the puma selector similar to the standard s2?

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

Swapping out for an mtx75 is a bit of a drastic fix.

Yeah the puma selector is similar. Very popular mod.

Gear change was fine before (besides 1st and 2nd being stiff which is why it was repaired). Just now it's bloody awful and I'm running out of ideas.

Gadget

Try a standard linkage to eliminate if it's the box or linkage!
I'd say it's still a box problem from the sounds of it.

muz

Sounds to me like the hydraulic cylinders need setting up if the bite is on the first 1/4 pedal travel and sounds like the clutch isn't actually fully disengaging? Mine did this the first time I tried it as I hadn't set the pushrods up.

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

Going to have a look for the std escort one at some point. I'm sure it's in the garage somewhere.

The biting point is at the very top of the pedal travel. So if you are lifting the pedal for the clutch to engage its in the final 1/4 of travel. (if that makes sense )
Surely if it's nice and high up the pedal the clutch would be fully disengaging?

muz

What I mean is as the clutch bite is so high, what's happening to the rest of the travel from that pedal? That force has to be going somewhere as 1/4 pedal travel releases the clutch as this is where the bit is, but there's still 3/4 worth of travel acting on something. I'm wondering whether the extra travel is over disengaging the clutch causing something to then work against the clutch plate. Such as the cover plate splines etc making contact and dragging, maybe?

I only say this as on mine, I was in the middle of setting the clutch up and wound the manual pedal stop in (Tilton floor mount) then got waylaid and forgot all about it. Few weeks later went to move the car it was tough getting in gear then when I went to move off the bite was, as you said, in the top 1/4 of the travel. So I stopped, looked under the bonnet and the force of the pedal being moved past the bite had bent the slave cylinder rod and slightly twisted the clutch release arm! When I told my brother he said it may have done damage to the cover plate splines by over engaging them. Everything is fine with it now, works like a dream, but maybe an idea.

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

ahh I'm with you now. Never thought about the fact it might be over disengaging.

I shall have to try adjusting it and see what happens.

muz

It's just a thought mate. I might be off the mark, but it makes sense in my head. Mines perfect now after a little setting up.

Karl @ FPT

Too much travel as Muz has said, I've had this before, adjust it so the biting point is much lower and you'll probably find it's fine

Chopshop85

iTrader: (4)

Right little update.
The clutch has been adjusted. You can feel the "pop" point at the lower half of the pedal travel.

Tried setting the linkage a bit different, made a difference but it is still occasionally notchy going into 3rd/4th. (drivable for now though)
I'm starting to think it might be something internal.

The engine might need to come out again for some other reasons so I shall investigate further then. Thanks for the suggestions.