When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So first off thanks to all those who replied to my first post and helped me make my decision to join the RS Turbo community. I have big plans for this car in the next few years. I am from the U.S.A I will be living in Europe for the next year or so this will be the car I take back to the U.S. with me from Europe. To start there will be things that are time critical to complete on the car prior to moving back to the U.S. Like buying large parts like new Recaro seats and an exhaust or any other large or heavy part that would be difficult to ship overseas. I am over here in Europe for work so my work will be shipping car back, they have a policy not to ship any car parts back to the U.S. I cannot ship parts with my personal belongings shipment due to other people over the years ruining it. They were taking advantage and shipping several extra engines, and other large parts to sell them back in the US for profit. So now the rules are I can ship back one complete car that runs back with me. So the first things that come to mind is getting is front Recaro seats, possibly door panels, a full 3 inch exhaust, the black dashboard piece around the glove box. Possibly a new driver side door due to corrosion at the bottom, it's the only rust on the vehicle. There is a picture shown below. I may just sandblast it get it repainted. I am not sure if it would be just easier to just buy a new door. Issues that I have noticed with the car so far are the engine is ready to be rebuilt the gaskets are starting to seep a little bit. It has 141,000 Kms on it. I changed my oil yesterday and there was a few small specs that resembled metal shavings in the oil. I changed the oil and flushed the engine with a cycle of engine cleaner and then did another oil change and filter to ensure that any unwanted metal was in my engine any more. I will watch carefully to see if it comes back. But I still plan on rebuilding my engine I would like to see 250-300 BHP once complete. I know I will need a management system and larger turbo/fuel delivery set up most likely. When the engine comes out for the rebuild I plan on doing a respray on the body and engine compartment get it looking brand new. I am not sure besides high performance clutch if I will need to beef up the tranny? I have started scoping out parts for the rebuild already on burton power. However I'm not sure exact what I will need to achive my goal.
My thermostat gauge goes nuts once the thermostat trips so I will most likely need to replace the gauge because I know the thermostat is working correctly.
I plan on doing rear disc conversion and probably wilwoods in the front. And suspension all the way around. I am not looking to slam it to the ground but I want to give it a more agreesive stance with out having to worry about rubbing from my tires. I got a set of softline RS7 17x7.5 for it I am not sure what tires to get yet. I may need to decide on suspension first, get a more low profile tire for the wheels.
I also have a 4 spoke RS steering wheel for it. No pictures yet it's in the mail.
So in a nut shell these are my plans over the next 2 years. Any insight on my project or constructive criticism would be much appreciated. If any one see's any recaros pop up let me know I will pay shipping for them. Overall this thing is a blast to Drive. I love the way the front wheel drive pulls you around corners. It will be one of a kind back in the USA .So with out further adieu her she is.
Thanks ,I want it to be as original as possible. But I love the way the cars look with the soft line RS 7 wheels. I may just put original suspension on it though. I just want to restore it and make the engine a little bit stronger. I really want to get recaro's, I think it is a unique feature that the car needs.
Look forward to seeing this progress!
For a reliable 250-300bhp in addition to what you have said above you will need a decent intercooler, clutch, forged pistons/rods, a Newman Cam and solid lifters and some head work.
Your tranny will not like it no, these are notoriously weak and often break with as little as 200bhp when driven hard.
So, the car has recently started intermittently building boost. I will lets say be at full throttle in 3rd gear I will hear the turbo spooling at 4500 RPM's and it will randomly cut out. The acceleration will still increase but not as much? You can tell that it stopped building boost. I know I really need a boost gauge to monitor my boost. Could it be possible that the turbo is going bad or the waste gate actuator is faulty? I am going to take the Turbo off tomorrow and check for shaft play and scoring in the housing for the turbine.
Could be actuator, turbo shaft getting stuck (because of excessive play), boost leak, ignition timing retarding heavily (for various reasons).
Ok...So took off all the intake hoses from the throttle body to the turbo including the intercooler. Inspected them for cracks or holes. Inspected the turbine on the turbo for damage or shaft play. I tried checking for leaks with carburetor cleaner. No leaks evident. I also changed the plug wires and the cap and rotor for the distributer. I changed the plugs 3 weeks ago. I removed them for further inspection they already have black color to them, all 4 of them. The car runs strong cold. However once it is hot it misses and sometimes doesn't build boost. I will be at full load and shift to the next gear and the RPMS will start climbing and then the engine will bog down and you can tell that the turbo stopped building boost. I won't hear a turbo noise. I know I really to buy a boost gauge to monitor my boost levels. Not sure what kind to get? I want a dash mount gauge nothing crazy expensive. But not junk either. For any other ideas on what to check for it would be much appreciated.
It looks like you've got standard boost hoses. Sounds like the intake pipe/hose going from air box to turbo could be collapsing on boost. This happened to my escort, the intake hose was fine when cold but when it got up to full operating temperature it would go soft and collapse on full boost and cause massive hesitation. I changed all the hoses to silicon items and it cured the problem. Hope this points you in the right direction.
It looks like you've got standard boost hoses. Sounds like the intake pipe/hose going from air box to turbo could be collapsing on boost. This happened to my escort, the intake hose was fine when cold but when it got up to full operating temperature it would go soft and collapse on full boost and cause massive hesitation. I changed all the hoses to silicon items and it cured the problem. Hope this points you in the right direction.
This is very possible. I was surprised how soft and thin all the intake hoses were. Any suggestions on some good brand hoses?
Ok I'm going to try to change out the turbo hoses. Any one recommend a good dash mount boost gauge? Not trying break the bank on it but I want it to do its job. Thanks in advance. Once this is done I will be able to actually see if the car is building boost and rule out the hoses.
Im on a good 3 drive right now . I'm headed home now. It is miss fireing like crazy right now, It sounds as if when ever I step on it I Boggs down and starts to miss fire in the lower RPMs but then after a few seconds it will smooth out and take off.
I like your car mate! I would deffenitly recomend the upgrade of the starter to a ford Transit starter (see other threads). It's so shit to wait till you can fire it up again when its hot!
However I have quite a simulair problem like yours... It has been in my car for a few years and couldn't find it till now (i drive it only in summer and haven't been spending time on finding it)
So my problem is the car won't pull to the red line all the time. I am pretty sure its retarding the ignition. It starts sometimes around 5500rpm and when i shift to the next gear and floor it then its there. Engine sounds strange. Does not build boost, but it does keep boost. I lift hit it again and off the car goes.
So i am pretty sure it can't be the boost lines. Now something happend that made me want to investigate this problem again.
I was driving. The car slowely got warmer. I noticed it while i was almost home. I set the ventilator fully on and heater on warm. The car did not cool but stayed a bit high (not in red). The same beheavior i have on high rpm's and after shifting started to come up earlier and more frequent.
When i arrived home i noticed that there was no coolant in the header tank and i had a leak on the back of the engine block. So i added a slight bit of coolant (not too much as i didn't want to thermoshock it) and let that pump around and then switched off.
What can all retard ignition? For me it seems to be temperature related? Temperature on the dashboard is fine, the thermostat is not too old, fan kicks in at the right time. What other sensor is there that the ECU might use?
Do you only have it in 3rd gear? You can keep your foot on the pedal and then it goes away? You say it starts in low rpm after hitting it, do you mean low rpm in the next gear?
One of the quick checks is disconnect the gear connector on the right side of the engine. It's the knock sensor. If that sends a faulty signal to the engine it might retard. If you pull it off it sends no signal, so no retarding for this sensor. But becarefull if you do knock then it might go worse then before!
Do you only have it in 3rd gear? You can keep your foot on the pedal and then it goes away? You say it starts in low rpm after hitting it, do you mean low rpm in the next gear?
No it occurs in all gears. It is intermittent. Yea it will bogg down then misfire a bit then it accelerates. If I red line second gear then shift to 3rd and stomp on it again it sometimes will misfire then studer a bit then slower than usual start accelerating.
Usually the Hall sensor breaks down over time and fails. Symptoms include misfiring and backfiring, at times its very violent and sounds like anti lag turbo. This is usually the final step before total failure. The engine will then refuse to start.
I took the last section of my exhaust off which included my muffler and added a 3 foot section of 2.5 inch strait pipe. It has a louder deeper sound for sure. Just wanted to see what it would sound like. I can change it back easily...which I may I'm not sure. In regards to what you said it has only back fired once or twice when red lineing first gear. As I said for sure it definitely misfires sometimes mostly when it's warm. So do you think I should just start changing out engine sensors?
So I got the Softlines RS7 on the car. Will post another picture soon. Do I need different wheel nuts for these rims? I am using my original bolts that held my factory wheels on. They bolted up fine however, it seemed like there is supposed to be a different lug nut for the wheels. There is a slightly larger gap between the rim and the lug nut. Like the hole is bigger. It holds the rim tightly. Just doesnt seem right?
can somebody confirm that the ignition inputs are only
- Inlet pressure
- Inlet temperature
- knock sensor
- Hall sensor for cam position
So I forgot to mention this i didn't think it was relevant. My temperature gauge/sensor never worked right since I bought the car. I figured if my fans were kicking on I would be ok. The gauge typically is below the lowest mark on the gauge, when it heats up it goes to the lowest mark. It is typically really hot in Spain around 90 degrees Farenhite, well i awoke at about 5 this morning,it was a very cold morning around 55 degrees Farenhite. The car started better than ever this morning it idled a lot stronger and smoother. there were no miss fires the car ran stronger than ever, no boost issues either. However after about an hour it got hot and started acting up the temp gauge started acting up agin to. So could it possibly be a faulty temp sensor? I think I'm gunna order and replace it asap.
So got the soft lines mounted up to some Kumho 195/40/17's. Still combating the engine troubles. Changed a leaky oil temp sensor and a coolant sensor that did't work. The oil sensor fix was the reason why the car smelled of burning oil. There is something going on causing issues of retarded timing. I am reading a book about the engine and it kinda is pointing towards the Hall sensor as RSmark84 said. It also mentions the engine air intake sensor.
Firstly you need Ghia wheel bolts for those alloys, secondly dont spend anymore money(excluding the correct wheel bolts) until you have bought a new replacement dizzy(it includes the hall sensor).
No easy to change. Burton power sell them, Plus send your broken one back and they'll give you money for it.
To fit it removal of old unit. unclip the 2 spring clips on the side that holds the cap on. pull away from the engine to show the rotary arm, You'll see 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head of the engine. undo both of these and pull away from head, You may need a new O ring seal.....thats half the job done. Fitting is reversal. Dont worry about timing, you cant fit it wrong.
Ok, I ordered the GHIA wheel bolts. Will I damage the rims currently will the original lugs I'm using? In regards to the dizzy I will order one too. Thanks!
No you won't these bolts are the only ones to use with those alloys unless you go stud and nut conversion. A cheap mod. That's very useful... But ghia bolts for them are a must.
No easy to change. Burton power sell them, Plus send your broken one back and they'll give you money for it.
To fit it removal of old unit. unclip the 2 spring clips on the side that holds the cap on. pull away from the engine to show the rotary arm, You'll see 2 bolts holding the dizzy to the head of the engine. undo both of these and pull away from head, You may need a new O ring seal.....thats half the job done. Fitting is reversal. Dont worry about timing, you cant fit it wrong.
Because then i would worry about timing. It should be back on the same position as how he takes it off or he should check timing with a timing gun (which probably is the best of the two)
30-04-2015, 10:34 PM
My first RS turbo project
