RSI fuel cut off on overrun?
#1
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RSI fuel cut off on overrun?
As far as im aware this was significant to the 16i's and no other escort model at the time, would I be right?
red dash LED permanently on, and green LED on overrun when you lift off the throttle?
Nothing to do with giving the car some right foot?
Just need to clear it up as im pretty sure that's right, but someone else ( ) thinks their economy lights to let you know when your giving the car some right foot!
red dash LED permanently on, and green LED on overrun when you lift off the throttle?
Nothing to do with giving the car some right foot?
Just need to clear it up as im pretty sure that's right, but someone else ( ) thinks their economy lights to let you know when your giving the car some right foot!
#2
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AFAIK The lights only come on when your deccellerating, the red one to indicate the throttle is closed and the yellow/green one to indicate the fuel shut off valve is operating
I believe theyre unique to the RSi, mk1 fiestas (possibly base model mk3 escorts too) have similar 'ecomony lights' but i think they operate in a different way
I believe theyre unique to the RSi, mk1 fiestas (possibly base model mk3 escorts too) have similar 'ecomony lights' but i think they operate in a different way
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Both the XR3i and RS1600i have overrun cut off. This is essential in the K Jetronic system because it allows the plunger in the metering head to drop back when you are decellerating.
The overrun valve is opened when the engine is at normal operating temperature, the throttle is fully closed and the revs are above 1500 (I think) rpm and dropping.
The two cars implement it into two different ways. The RS1600i's ECU controls the valve. When it detects all of the above conditions it opens the valve and allows the plunger to drop. When this happens BOTH the red and amber lights illuminate on the speedometer. They do not work seperately.
The XR3i has no ECU, so instead it has a speed-sensing relay behind the dash that monitors the tacho signal and when the conditions are right this opens the valve. It doesn't have the lights on the dash so it is not obvious that this is happening.
When someone converts an RS1600i to run on a distributor they tend to forget that without the ECU working the overrun valve won't function. This being the case the car will hestitate and kangeroo on overrun. It would be possible to fit the XR3i speed sensing relay to solve this but for some reason people don't seem to do it.
You can check that the overrun system is working correctly by getting the engine up to operating temperature, and opening the throttle slightly from under the bonnet. When you release it you should hear a "click" from the valve on the back of the fuel distributor. If you don't then the system isn't working. The cause of this is nearly always the contact on the throttle.
The econolights on carb fed Fiestas, Escorts and Cortinas are all operated via two vacuum switches. On these cars the two lights do work separetely, but on the RS1600i they always work together.
The overrun valve is opened when the engine is at normal operating temperature, the throttle is fully closed and the revs are above 1500 (I think) rpm and dropping.
The two cars implement it into two different ways. The RS1600i's ECU controls the valve. When it detects all of the above conditions it opens the valve and allows the plunger to drop. When this happens BOTH the red and amber lights illuminate on the speedometer. They do not work seperately.
The XR3i has no ECU, so instead it has a speed-sensing relay behind the dash that monitors the tacho signal and when the conditions are right this opens the valve. It doesn't have the lights on the dash so it is not obvious that this is happening.
When someone converts an RS1600i to run on a distributor they tend to forget that without the ECU working the overrun valve won't function. This being the case the car will hestitate and kangeroo on overrun. It would be possible to fit the XR3i speed sensing relay to solve this but for some reason people don't seem to do it.
You can check that the overrun system is working correctly by getting the engine up to operating temperature, and opening the throttle slightly from under the bonnet. When you release it you should hear a "click" from the valve on the back of the fuel distributor. If you don't then the system isn't working. The cause of this is nearly always the contact on the throttle.
The econolights on carb fed Fiestas, Escorts and Cortinas are all operated via two vacuum switches. On these cars the two lights do work separetely, but on the RS1600i they always work together.
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Originally Posted by MarkN
When someone converts an RS1600i to run on a distributor they tend to forget that without the ECU working the overrun valve won't function. This being the case the car will hestitate and kangeroo on overrun. It would be possible to fit the XR3i speed sensing relay to solve this but for some reason people don't seem to do it.
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Both Mk3 and Mk4 Escort/Orions 1.6i's have them (apart from the later EFi ones of course). The relay itself is clipped on the bulkhead behind the dash on the drivers side, - next to the fuel pump relay.
Should be a piece of pi$$ to fit as I think it only has 6 wires: An earth, a tacho signal, one to the injection relay, one to the cold start valve, one to the thermal time switch and the wire to the overrun valve itself. You should be able to find the diagram in a Haynes manual.
If you're running a distributor fitting this would make it run a lot smoother especially when decellerating. You also use a bit less fuel too, plus it would get the econolights working again...
Should be a piece of pi$$ to fit as I think it only has 6 wires: An earth, a tacho signal, one to the injection relay, one to the cold start valve, one to the thermal time switch and the wire to the overrun valve itself. You should be able to find the diagram in a Haynes manual.
If you're running a distributor fitting this would make it run a lot smoother especially when decellerating. You also use a bit less fuel too, plus it would get the econolights working again...
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Cheers mate thats some interesting info there, sounds like it could be easily connected onto the coil wiring at the ECU end (does the ECU have to be connected to run a dizzy?)
Might bend your ear for some more info at a later date
Might bend your ear for some more info at a later date
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Cool, only had a quick look in the manual and i think i can connect it up via the ECU wiring plug
That way i can always disconnect it and refit the coils and ECU rather than bodgeing it
That way i can always disconnect it and refit the coils and ECU rather than bodgeing it
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The makes sense because the ECU would need to talk to all of the same bits as the speed sensing relay. You would need to make an extra connection for the tacho though as I don't think the ECU has a connection to this as it uses the gearbox sensor instead.
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