jonnyturbo

any1 know where i can get some guidance on fitting my twin 40s to my car, they are already jetted for the 1.6cvh and i have inlet manifold, linkages, air filter, fuel pressure reg, facet red to pump, but i wanna have a bash at it my self lol

CosRush

What sort of guidance are you looking for.....

How to hold the spanner........

or

How to setup the fuel pressure etc..........

jonnyturbo

things like how do i get the tension right in the throttle cable, what do i wire the fuel pump up 2? how do i plumb it in? do i just cut the fuel line and stick it in the middle? how do i set up pressure, any tips would be great

CosRush

The tension should be pretty much set if you are using a decent throttle linkage setup, they usually have a number of fixing holes to adjust the tension.....

You haven't said whether you are going to remove all the old stuff, pump etc or just add the new stuff to it........

Has your car got an electronic pump or mechanical already???

What regulator have you got?

jonnyturbo

my car isnt injection, it is just a weber twin choke same as xr2 so doesnt have a fuel pump. dont know what make the regulator is but it i got it from a cavalier that had twin 40s and is only a cpl of months old.

CosRush

You will have a mechanical pump then.

you'll obviously need to remove the fuel pipe from this, best bet is to remove the pump completely and fit a blanking plate.

as far as a regulator, i never use anything other than the Malpassi filter king.
Its superb for twin carbs, and the instructions will help you set the correct pressure.
Ive no idea what the reg is you've got, i'd suggest you ditch it and get one of the above.
you'll also need a carb synchrometer, a little gadget you fit into each intake when the engine is running to be able to balance the air flow of the 2 carsb to each other via the little screw that should be on the linkage between the throttle spindles.
Cant remember what the fitting is for the Red Top, i think it can be mounted anywhere (check this), but if that is the case, then you could mount it under the bonnet with the Reg.
Plus, i'd wire it through a switch in the car so you can isolate the pump, and check the wiring details to see if it needs a relay or not, and make sure you use the correct gauge wire.

Tank to pump, pump to reg, reg to T piece, 2x ends of T piece to each carb.

Make sure you use some nice rampipes, Full radius are better.

You didn't say what air filter you are using.........

you'll have to forgive me if ive missed anything....

its been nearly 15 years since ive used twin 40's..........

jonnyturbo

thats the regulater ive got, but aint got instructions as it came off another car. the pump is to be mounted near the tank i was told, i have a pipercross slimline filter that covers all 4 rampipes. thanks for help

jonnyturbo

thinkin maybe i should fit it all to save on labour then take it to a specialist to be set up properly then eh?

CosRush

Definitely worth getting it setup.......

There's Emulsions, Air correctors, idles,accels and main jets and the chances that these will be spot on for your engine will be slim.
Might be close, but imo a rolling road setup will getting it running spot on...

always did for me

The Facet pumps come in 2 main types.
The interupter type you have IIRC does not need to be gravity fed like the lesser model, so can be mounted under the bonnet for simpler installation.

you'd need to double check this, but better IMO.........

jonnyturbo

thanks a lot mate. mucho appreciation

CosRush

No worries.......

Hope its helped

fightingtorque

I recently made this conversion to my Chinese built efi CVH engine. There is a lot of useful stuff on the net, for example

http://members.aol.com/dvandrews/webers.htm

Also I reccommend a couple of books - Engine Management by Dave Walker (great for carb stuff and injection stuff) and another one on DCOE Weber and DHLA Dellorto which I think may be one of the speedpro series - you can get all this on amazon.

Don't assume the jetting and chokes are right to start with, I used a set of carbs from ebay that had been on a CVH before, and it was way wrong for my engine, then I changed the cam and that changed everything again.

So reckon on some rolling roading, and/ or get yourself a wide band lambda reader air fuel ratio meter.

For the fuel pump wiring, I haven't done it properly yet but you would ideally want something that went on and off with the engine rotation (easy if you have an ECU to control the ignition) as well as the ability to kill it if you need to by a manual switch, and also the ability to fire it up manually for example for testing or priming the carbs.

For ignition, my experience was to try to run them together with a stock ecu, it didn't work well so I got an emerald ecu. of course by this time it might have been more sensible to go with throttle body injection but never mind.

if you use a distributor, i have heard that the vacuum advance won't work properly and so is best not used, although that will really hurt economy. ideally you want to use a dizzy with a modified advance curve or else get one that comes off the shelf with something more appropriate - micro dynamics make or used to make one, i've seen them on ebay. ignition timing is an important factor.

It's not a low hassle option, but will change a boring saloon into a whole box of fun, not just because of any power gain but they just sound so mean.

CosRush

This is true,

You need the advance to match the characturistics of the rest of the engine.
Change the cam and the req'd advance will be different.

i used to use an Aldon Dizzy with matched Curve for my spec......

I assume they are still available.........