Fitting twin 40s?
Thread Starter
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: Glasgow's finest Trailer Park!
has anybody got any tips or advice etc for fitting twin 40s to a 1.6 cvh?
i want to have a shot at fitting them myself, i have twin 40s, linkage, inlet manifold, air filter, facet red top pump, and a fuel pressure regulator.
should i wire the fuel pump to the ignition? so when i turn car on the pump comes on? any advice or problems you have incurred along the way?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
i want to have a shot at fitting them myself, i have twin 40s, linkage, inlet manifold, air filter, facet red top pump, and a fuel pressure regulator.
should i wire the fuel pump to the ignition? so when i turn car on the pump comes on? any advice or problems you have incurred along the way?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
A couple of things i'd say.......
1. If you want to run 40 dcoe's, then you really need at least a modified cam and ported head, otherwise you wont really see the benefits of fitting them........
The carbs have 4 seperate barrels, each allowing the optimum airflow matched to the jetting (you will need this setup on a RR), however, you do not increase the airflow (cam and headwork), you'll basically just end up running them setup like the standard carb, so no big differences....
2. Pump is a good one, i always used to use the Malpassi Filter King regulator (good bit of kit).
I'd wire the pump through the igntion and a Switch too.
Hide the switch somewhere (just the dash for example, but somewhere you can reach when you get it), that way you can isolate it should you need to, but also you can turn it off when you leave the car, so if anyone got in and tried to start it the pump wouldn't run........
Assuming you dont yet have a Cam or any headwork, i'd am for a Fast Road spec cam, and to make use of the carbs, ported head with bigger inlet valves.........
Dont know what your engine puts out as standard, but the very first engine i ever built was a 1300 x-flow.......
made 115bhp on 40 dcoe's.......
3. Dont forget though, once all is fitted, you'll need to get it to a RR as the choices of chokes, emulsion, accel jet and mains will depend entreily on your engine spec.........
I'll never forget my first trip with the above x-flow....
it was spitting and coughing all the way there.........the drive home home was brilliant, smooth and so much more powerful........
Hope that helps.
1. If you want to run 40 dcoe's, then you really need at least a modified cam and ported head, otherwise you wont really see the benefits of fitting them........
The carbs have 4 seperate barrels, each allowing the optimum airflow matched to the jetting (you will need this setup on a RR), however, you do not increase the airflow (cam and headwork), you'll basically just end up running them setup like the standard carb, so no big differences....
2. Pump is a good one, i always used to use the Malpassi Filter King regulator (good bit of kit).
I'd wire the pump through the igntion and a Switch too.
Hide the switch somewhere (just the dash for example, but somewhere you can reach when you get it), that way you can isolate it should you need to, but also you can turn it off when you leave the car, so if anyone got in and tried to start it the pump wouldn't run........
Assuming you dont yet have a Cam or any headwork, i'd am for a Fast Road spec cam, and to make use of the carbs, ported head with bigger inlet valves.........
Dont know what your engine puts out as standard, but the very first engine i ever built was a 1300 x-flow.......
made 115bhp on 40 dcoe's.......
3. Dont forget though, once all is fitted, you'll need to get it to a RR as the choices of chokes, emulsion, accel jet and mains will depend entreily on your engine spec.........
I'll never forget my first trip with the above x-flow....
it was spitting and coughing all the way there.........the drive home home was brilliant, smooth and so much more powerful........
Hope that helps.
just to but in here im away to do the same ive put a 2.ol zetec bottom end with s2 rs turbo g.box & stage 2 rs 16i head with kent cam & vernier but its not finished as im working off shore but on my inlet mannifold theres i hole between the outlets its not threaded so what sort of connection do i need & is my brake servo supposed to go in there thanks in advance
Not sure what it is you've got there, having no threads seems a bit strange, but anyway if you have Servo assited brakes then you will need to tap into the manifold to get the vacuum.
hope that helps.
hope that helps.
Trending Topics
In my experience, junk the Mechanical fuel pump for an electric one.
A facet Silver top interupter should see you right, and i always recommend using a Malpassi filter king as well on twin weber's.
They have a clever device inside that helps to dampen out the pulse effect of fuel pump, makes for smoother running.
Plus the added bonus of having a removalable filter.
Hope that helps.
A facet Silver top interupter should see you right, and i always recommend using a Malpassi filter king as well on twin weber's.
They have a clever device inside that helps to dampen out the pulse effect of fuel pump, makes for smoother running.
Plus the added bonus of having a removalable filter.
Hope that helps.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Focosmitch
Ford RS Cosworth Parts for Sale
9
May 31, 2016 09:28 PM
fuzzy
General Car Related Discussion.
21
Feb 15, 2016 10:26 PM
Focosmitch
Ford RS Cosworth Parts for Sale
36
Oct 9, 2015 07:38 PM
Focosmitch
Ford RS Cosworth Parts for Sale
2
Aug 14, 2015 07:29 AM



