Hello, i want to thank you all for the contents in this forum. I need advice:
I own a Ford Orion 1.6 cvh '90 with a Weber TLDM 28/32. After doing a complete restoration of the carb, everything was working fine, except from the autochoke (water choke), that was broken in the housing and the spring wasnt working ok.
I've already wanted to get rid of it because i live in a warm climate and there were idle issues with it activated. So i removed it, and i covered the hole in the carb body that was for the vacuum pulloff of the choke. I also installed a new manifold to carb base gasket
(the same as the original, with two paper gaskets, one in each side), after realizing that the original didnt have the paper ones. The problem is that now the car won't start. I changed the battery because the older was discharged and installed a new set of spark plug wires. So i wanted to ask you if there is something to be made after removing the autochoke, because i fear i'm missing something. All the hoses are fitted, and i also removed one of the two hoses that came to the water-choke, the one that connected the choke housing with the manifold, and connecting the other one directly to the manifold port. Thank you.

 

As several things have been changed here, you need to verify if you have a) fuel reaching the engine and b) spark.

I still believe you will need choke, irrespective of the warmer climate.

Martin

 

Hi martin and thank you for your answer. There is fuel coming to the engine. The starter cranks, but i think there is no spark. I have removed the spark plugs and they have the top covered of black shoot. I'm afraid i could have flooded the engine when trying to make it start, by pushing the throttle maybe too much and various attempts. I'm going to try changing them. By the way, i forgot to mention that the first time after the carb rebuild, the car started, after three attempts (i think because off the empty carb bowl and a weak battery...) but as soon as i stopped pushing the gas, it died. didn't held the idle. So i turned in a little the idle speed screw, and since that the car won't start anymore.

 

As I say I don't believe you have done yourself any favours by removing the choke, which I would say is probably the issue here.

A richer mixture is required for a cold start, irrespective of the ambient temperature.

The reason for this is the fact fuel does not vaporise well when cold and condenses on the cylinder walls.

The plugs won't be the issue, given it was working before.

Martin

 

Hi. Sorry for the time wihout replying and thanks for all the help. Following your advice, i ended re-fitting the starter unit to the carb. Now, i have another problem: With the engine cold, i set the choke depressing the throttle so the flap closes and the pump squirts a stream of fuel, and the car starts ok in fast idle. I let it warm and everything seems to be running fine: there is no black smoke or anything like that, the sound is good, the choke pull-off appears to be working because the flap opens very slightly at start to prevent flooding... and after less than ten minutes, the engine is warm and rpm begin to go up, i suppose because the car is stationary and the throttle is sitting on the fast idle. Here comes the problem: as soon as i press the throttle to release the choke fast idle cam step and set the carb on normal idle, the car just dies. I also tried doing it from cold, with the same result. Starting from cold, i can rev it up with the throttle with no problem, but the car dies as soon the fast idle is released. Do you have any ideas?. Thank you very much.