sparkie

hi folks new on here looking for a bit of help i have a 2wd e reg cossie having a problem with the spark well there isnt one,i have replaced coil,ignition module,phase senser,rotor arm dizzy cap,crank shaft senser and still no joy does anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong as im running out of ideas most parts bought from motor sport developments any help would be well appreciated cheers.The car was running great i parked it out at my mates garage for a few weeks his garage roof ended up leaking so the car was sitting in a big puddle of water i drove the car home but it seamed to loose power on the way home when i got home parked the car up but never started again after that car is getting fuel just no spark.

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a wiring problem, I assume you have power at the black wire on the coil?

After this you can link a couple of pins on the ECU which will send a SPOUT.

Martin

oldford

You say the engine is getting fuel. Did you check whether the injectors actually inject fuel?
Or are you assuming it because the fuel pump runs?

You can try to read fault codes, before and after cranking.
See: http://bigturbo.co.uk/main7.htm

sparkie

positive its getting fuel the engine stinks like a bike that has been flooded and plugs are soaking in it dont no if there is power at the black wire on the coil yet as im crap with electrics lol but will check that the next time im out someone suggested the relays under the dash board on the passenger side under glove box

oldford

No relay involved here. Coil and ignition module are fed directly from the ignition switch.
See: http://bigturbo.co.uk/main6.htm
Both main and fuel pump relay must be working. Otherwise you would not have fuel.

sparkie

ok mate cheers how do i set up something to check for the fault codes as i aint great at electrics

martysmartie

iTrader: (1)

You won't get any such thing as a fault code from a Weber ECU, they use a 'flash code' system, basically you have to make up your own circuit using an LED and a resistor, (On 3DR models this was done for you as the output was connected to the EML) the light will flash a certain amount of times, the number of times can then be used to lookup which sensor it relates to.

Trouble is, it's not very good as it only tells you if a sensor is open circuit I believe.

The CPS is where the info is sourced for spark, which is working by your fuelling situation.

You need to check the coil has power first, very easy to do and it's likely you do have, but this needs to be verified first. As at the moment you have gone straight to the ECU which may be fine.

I suspect another problem as there is no reason why the ECU would just stop sending a SPOUT.

Relays are the last place you want to be looking!

Martin

oldford

Fault code or flash code? Most of it is semantics.
But every flash code is a fault code, without a doubt.
Fault codes are not limited to EOBD codes that are read with a scanner.
Besides that, my scanner reads these flash codes for me, so I don't see the difference.

EVEN today in 2012 most fault codes (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) are still set when a circuit is open or shorted. Everything in between is usually accepted by the ecu. For instance: an ecu cannot tell if your engine coolant temperature sensor is correct in saying it's -20 degrees Celsius or not when the engine is started. Right now that's about correct, however in 3 months time it would be faulty.

The Cosworth fault codes can tell you whether a crankshaft or dizzy signal fails.
That was handy in this case. They also can tell you if a signal is too large (open circuit/short circuit to plus) or too low (short to ground).
Sure, there are only a handfull codes, but still they may come in handy and save a lot of time.

I remember one of my customers with about the same complaint as here.
They spend weeks searching the problem. They even took apart the complete wiring loom, but still couldn't find it. Then they brought me the ecu to check, which I declined without having the vehicle to go with it. Eventually they brought the vehicle and I found the problem in about 10 seconds. 3 of the 4 teeth from the trigger wheel were gone. Reading the fault codes would also have stated that there was a problem with the crankshaft signal and would have saved a lot of time and money.

sparkie

went out this afternoon i have power going to the coil and have power at the plug for the dizzy i turned ignition on tester started at 8 volts i think then went down to 1 cranked engine over volts went back up dont now if this info helps