Hi all

When I start my car from fully cold (first thing etc) it starts but sounds as though it's only firing on 3 cylinders and cuts out. I can keep it running by raising the revs to 2000 but again as soon as I start to move, it tries to cut out. If I stop again within the first 2mins or so it'll again try to cut out when I go to pull away. If it does die it restarts on the button. I've checked for air leaks etc and there are none. A full can of carb cleaner was sprayed around the block on all sides and angles and nothing was there.

Anyone any ideas?

 

Check your plugs mate

 

They're 2000mile old FRS plugs. What am I looking for on them? I have Denso itv-22s as spares do I'll swap them in

 

Gap them to about 0.6mm, same with the Denso's. Check the ceramic of the plugs and make sure they aren't cracked somewhere

 

You can also try your lambda sensors mate. Mine were being lazy and occasionally throwing up a code. Would make my engine fire, then splutter and hunt and then be OK. Closed loop fuelling works mostly when the car is cold so it could be them.

 

I would be looking at emissions, and for an air leak.
Closed loop fuelling is not used when it's mostly cold, as the lean afr's the cat needs aren't always possible then, that's why there are various things to "lite" the cat early, such as pulse air, which also help to protect the cat.
tabetha

 

The car has no cat and the ecu was set up apparently without one. It behaved tonight coming home so it seems to come and go like it could be a loose connection or failing sensor. I had thought maybe injector or similar myself tbh

 

I've been out today and the car idles slightly higher when warm than cold. It's ~700- 750rpm when cold and 900ish warm so am thinking idle valve or cold start if it has one?

 

Yes it does have an idle valve, its in an awkward spot on the back of the inlet. Easier to get to from underneath the car.

Did you check the gap on the plugs and swap over to the others to see any difference?

 

Yeah did gaps. Densos came off tuned FRS so were gapped to 0.6mm anyway. Car feels slightly smoother but I did a lead as well as it had a damaged plastic insulator at coil end. I should be able to get into idle valve if I remove battery etc as my engine bay is different layout. Just get a mate underneath with a torch to make sure all lined up.

 

Could a bad battery cause this? My battery has an indicator on and it's gone black.