I am going to blank off the egr valve on my 54 plate tddi focus (endura engine) and want to know how to trick the ecm into thinking its still connected to prevent the ecu from going into limp mode.

The egr is electrically operated with a 3 wire plug on top and a vacuum tube going to another sensor on the bulkhead next to the map sensor.
this other sensor has another vac line off the brake vac line connected to it and another air tube off the top connected to the air filter. It also has a two wire connector on it.
Will i need to make adjustment to the vac lines and the wires going to the egr and other sensor ?
Any help appreciated.
martin

 

Any changes to vac lines and/or wires will most likely be detected by the ecu.
You're best change would be to realy blank it with a metal plate.
If that produces a fault code then drill 1 or 2 small holes in the blanking plate.

 

i am going to blank it off as i dont think its working anyway, its really thick with crud and the haynes says to remove turbo, cat and exhaust manifold just to get the inlet manifold off to clean it, not a job i fancy doing laying on my back under the car !! hence get rid of the egr altogether. I have a tin of egr cleaner on its way to help clean the inlet manifold.

The car runs rough almost like its missing, also has a knock/tap, starts fine but smokes a lot (whiteish smoke which smells of diesel) undoing the injector unions one by one makes no diffrence.
I have had the injectors out and they do atomize, also checked tappet shim gaps. tried another map sensor and crank sensor.
One odd thing is i take the intercooler to inlet manifold pipe off and place my hand oner the inlet to restrict airflow and the knocking reduces/clears.
Engine light is on but cant afford to take it to ford.

 

Model year 2004 also can be read by any EOBD/OBD2 code reader.
Without the codes is guessing what the problem is.

 

i plugged in a memo scan OBD2 reader and it came back with code p1000 more driving required. and i dont really want to drive it with the smoke and knocking, just in case i do any more damage.

 

Sprayed the tin of egr cleaner into the inlet, the smoking almost disopeared but the tapping/knock is still there but again when i put my hand over the inlet to reduce the airflow the knocking goes away. odd.

 

If the EGR valve is electrically operated then I don't think you can bypass it without it throwing a fault code. It's just the earlier ones that are soley vaccuum operated that you can.