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Running in oil

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Old 14-03-2011, 08:21 PM
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wayne dowling
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Default Running in oil

Evening all as titled wots the best running in oil for a 2wd saff cos
this oil
Millers Oils Classic Running In Oil 30

or this oil
Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Oil

thanks wayne
Old 14-03-2011, 08:23 PM
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Mark Shead
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Originally Posted by wayne dowling
Evening all as titled wots the best running in oil for a 2wd saff cos
this oil
Millers Oils Classic Running In Oil 30

or this oil
Millers Oils CRO 10w-40 Competition Running In Oil

thanks wayne

I use Titan running in oil for 50miles.

Mark
Old 14-03-2011, 08:40 PM
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wayne dowling
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thanks mark wheres the best place get it from and wot oil do u recomend after the 50miles

thanks wayne
Old 14-03-2011, 08:46 PM
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COCHYN
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Just use basic mineral oil and after the basic 1k miles, chuck oil and filter in favour of some nice new Silkolene (or Titan as its called now)

Last edited by COCHYN; 17-03-2011 at 09:30 PM.
Old 15-03-2011, 10:37 AM
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tabetha
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You can use std fully synthetic for running in, modern oils allow ring break in/bedding without a problem.
The reason for mineral would be due to cost, as ideally it gets after so few miles.
I don't use running in oil at all these days, just make sure you don't baby it.
tabetha
Old 17-03-2011, 01:00 AM
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sseba2012
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you've undoubtedly blown the gaskets, get a compresision checker unscrew the sparkplug screw in the compression checker and confirm the compression in the cylinder . Low compression causes loss of power at low rpms, and though it'll run better at high rpms it won't run well until the gaskets are replaced. When you added too much oil, the oil took up space usually occupied by air in the engine below the piston, as the piston went down the air was compressed to a much higher than normal psi rupturing the lower gasket (probably) and the upper gasket (almost definitely) as the fluid (oil) can't compress. The weakest part of the engine (the paper gaskets) blew out. Get the manufacturer's manual, carefully follow the instructions about torqueing the bolts when you reassemble the engine, and be happy that it was a cheap lesson in paying attention to following the owner's manual when adding oil to the engine
sorry nomadd, he said he drained the engine, and it's been several days, foam in the oil isn't likely. When he used starter fluid to help start the engine he was raising the engine compression by displacing the atmosphere that normally enters via the air filter...
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Old 17-03-2011, 01:25 AM
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fezzielove
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Originally Posted by sseba2012
you've undoubtedly blown the gaskets, get a compresision checker unscrew the sparkplug screw in the compression checker and confirm the compression in the cylinder . Low compression causes loss of power at low rpms, and though it'll run better at high rpms it won't run well until the gaskets are replaced. When you added too much oil, the oil took up space usually occupied by air in the engine below the piston, as the piston went down the air was compressed to a much higher than normal psi rupturing the lower gasket (probably) and the upper gasket (almost definitely) as the fluid (oil) can't compress. The weakest part of the engine (the paper gaskets) blew out. Get the manufacturer's manual, carefully follow the instructions about torqueing the bolts when you reassemble the engine, and be happy that it was a cheap lesson in paying attention to following the owner's manual when adding oil to the engine
sorry nomadd, he said he drained the engine, and it's been several days, foam in the oil isn't likely. When he used starter fluid to help start the engine he was raising the engine compression by displacing the atmosphere that normally enters via the air filter...
=============
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how the hell is this relevant lol
Old 17-03-2011, 08:38 PM
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wayne dowling
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Thanks cochyn and tabetha
And sseda2012 as fezzielove sed how is this relevant i was asking wot oil to run a freshley built engine in on
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