Anonymous

I own a Ford Orion Mk1 with an RS Turbo S2. It has some modifications like Kent cam, Simota air cleaner, custom built 4-pot intercooler, Garrett T3 and a superchip, which result in a best recorded 1/4 mile time of 13.6s. However I have a problem with the engine temperature. The car used to have two fans but one of them had to be removed becuase the intercooler took its place and stands in a vertical position. Since then, when I get stuck in traffic, temperatures go up exactly below the red mark. If I switch off the engine when the temperature is this high some coolant water is released from below. I'm sure it's not a blown gasket, and when I'm driving at cruising speed the temperature goes down. I know that in my country temperatures are very hot in summer but I don't think this is normal. I've fitted Bailey's oil breather and swirl pot to help a bit and I'm planning for a fifth injector and water injection. But still, what could be the possible cause of this?

EIL132

13.6 on that spec No wonder you have a cracked block

Anonymous

HI,
At what temp on the temperatue gauge does the fan cut in,

normally about just above half way, sounds like the fan thermo switch
is cutting the fan in at the wrong temp, most rs turbos as std dont like
hot weather traffic conditions, have you checked your thermostat is
operating ok, and the water pump is ok, i would check the pump is
not leaking and no play in it as it could seize and chuck the cambelt off.
if all checks out, as water is coming past the radiator cap and its good
you must have pressure in the system, which suspects headgasket
maybe airlock, also check your co%, and ignition timing,
Dave,

Anonymous

It all works fine. During the winter I have none of these problems. And in summer it only happens when I'm stuck in traffic, while when I'm on cruising speed everything is fine and the temperature remains steady at slightly above the halfway mark.

I'm worried with the fact that a guy has replied that I have a cracked block. But if I do have a cracked block, then why does this happen ONLY when I switch off the engine when the temp goes at exactly below the red mark?

Till now, thanks for your help

JesseT

Nice car mate! My mk1 turbo Orion did the same (coolant coming out after shutting). The reason is the hot exhaust, engine and turbo right next to the radiator. If the temperature was high to begin with, then after shut down the turbo will boil the coolant then it comes out through the expansion tank cap and the small hose connected to it. There are several cures to the problem:

Rewire the power to the fan so it continues blowing even after engine has been shut down untill the temperature has dropped.

Build a heat shield between the turbo and the radiator.

Change the expansion tank (or cap only if it fits) to a S2 unit if you haven't already. The pressure relief valve has a higher rating. (I suppose mk1 Orion and S1 have the same cap)

Don't fill coolant to max. Keep it closer to min.

Use a 82C thermostat. Helps ever so slightly. I use a Toyota MR2 unit. It also opens up much more when it opens.


Do you have any pictures of the car? Fast mk1s don't come by every day.

Anonymous

Hi JessT. Thanks for your help. I will try out your solutions since the reason you gave for the problem makes much more sense than a cracked block.

I've seen that red Orion on the net before. It's nice and has a nice original bodykit, much better than the one provided by McRallying.

If you can give your email address I will send you pics of my Orion, or else find me on IRC Undernet server on #malta with username RST_226. My Orion was the first one to be modified in my country, it's the one in the best condition still running original factory spray and after it featured in a local magazine it is now being the inspiration to other Orions, not as fast of course.

Again thanks for your help Jesse!