HELP! Amp troubles!
#1
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HELP! Amp troubles!
Help needed please!
Okay i have installed amp and followed everyones instructions and advice.
Front and sub amped, power one way, speakers etc the other.
Was all finished so i started testing, was sounding good and booming BUT then all the power went, stereo went off, tried car, wouldnt start.
Checked all fuses, none blown. Checked battery and its flat.
Have put battery to charge overnight.
Has this happened because i was testing without the car running and ive just drained the battery (i was powering it hard but not for anymore than half hour) or is this gonna be a bigger problem do you think?
Should you always have the car running when booming the stereo??
Any help real appreciated guys and gals!
Okay i have installed amp and followed everyones instructions and advice.
Front and sub amped, power one way, speakers etc the other.
Was all finished so i started testing, was sounding good and booming BUT then all the power went, stereo went off, tried car, wouldnt start.
Checked all fuses, none blown. Checked battery and its flat.
Have put battery to charge overnight.
Has this happened because i was testing without the car running and ive just drained the battery (i was powering it hard but not for anymore than half hour) or is this gonna be a bigger problem do you think?
Should you always have the car running when booming the stereo??
Any help real appreciated guys and gals!
#2
Too many posts.. I need a life!!
Running it with the car turned off will drain the battery in no time, have car running always when steroe on the prolong the life of the battery. Depends how much ice you have in there you may need to fit a heavy duty battery aswell
#4
Shit battery imo, easy to work out your current consumption though so you know exactly how long it will last, V/I X R.
Having the engine running will only slow down the effect, but you will still be taking out more from the battery than the alternator can supply when idling if it's gone flat in 30 minutes, don't forget a 70 amp alternator does not charge at 70!!, this is a peak reading, and only has to do it for 1 second, as a rough rule no more than 1/2 the rated capacity will be delivered continuously, but for short times up to around 70%.
Deep cycle battery will do nothing to help the cause, as these are only advantageous when depleted in that no damage is caused, unlike a std lead acid battery.
You ideally need a AGM battery, these have vastly better performance, but at a price, around £120 minimum, would most likely be better to just get the biggest AH one you can in the tray, or even fit extra one in the boot etc.
tabetha
Having the engine running will only slow down the effect, but you will still be taking out more from the battery than the alternator can supply when idling if it's gone flat in 30 minutes, don't forget a 70 amp alternator does not charge at 70!!, this is a peak reading, and only has to do it for 1 second, as a rough rule no more than 1/2 the rated capacity will be delivered continuously, but for short times up to around 70%.
Deep cycle battery will do nothing to help the cause, as these are only advantageous when depleted in that no damage is caused, unlike a std lead acid battery.
You ideally need a AGM battery, these have vastly better performance, but at a price, around £120 minimum, would most likely be better to just get the biggest AH one you can in the tray, or even fit extra one in the boot etc.
tabetha
#5
Part of the Furniture
i'm running a 200amp ho alternator with normal heavy duty battery for engine and a split charging relay and a optima yellow top in the boot running a 2000w system. Best bit is even if you flatten the optima you can still start your car on the other.
Last edited by ste1806; 03-02-2010 at 06:43 PM.
#7
tabetha
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