getting ready to start my rebuild and been advised different things by different people!

basicly i have a 200 block that is wire rung i've been told best to have these removed and the block decked is this right?

now i'm taking the pistons out to have valve cut outs and if the block is decked these will need doing aswell, been told i should have the cut outs done as i'll be running bd14 ex and safer to do so

also been told if big end shells aren't scored re-use them as this will save the run in process! just think that all the trouble i'm going to should i change them? or is this a done thing ie if its not broke dont fix it!

any in put would really help

 

please excuse my noviceness...but what does wire rung mean?

 

wire rings insertrd into the block around each bore that clamps into the head gasket but has to be specific head gasket

 

yea you'll need to get cut outs to run bd14s mate, its a good idea anyway for what it costs as it gives u or anyone else if u didnt run bigger cams the scope to in future. I did the same!! but am still running standard cams at mo. Skimming the wire rings out thou hummmm think a fwe people on here in the past have said they have left the ring holes with no problems, also what headgasket are you going to use btw?!

Shells wise guess its up to u if u want to fit new ones or not, obviously if their not worn at all probably dont need changing but then how many miles have they done now?!

 

gonna use grp A head gasket was set to have long studded as well and engine has done around 40k its just amazing that 2/3 well know tuners/builders will tell you totally different things!

 

i would try and speak to one of the experienced engine builder on here and ask advise, try a guy called chip, he's very helpful and forth coming with info

wire rung is kind of old school and not really done anymore. wire rung were originally put into blocks to help the head and block seal with the gasket, but unless they were done 100% it caused more problems.

i'm led to believe you can you a wrc headgasket if you have wire rung, but you are limited in your headgasket choice as not all headgaskets will work with wire - so i would keep the 200 block as it is and not have them machined out

what the rest of the spec of your engine?

i would pocket the pistons even with standard cams, but unless that was a typo above, are you going with a bd14 exhaust cam?

does the crank need grinding? if i had it all apart i would always use new bearings, even if it dont need them, just for peace of mind. i'm sure others will disagree

 

stick with 1 person ideas and you cant go wrong

regarding the block NO block skimming, if it was me I'd remove the wire and replace it with new wire(I have used thin mig welding wire before with no probs) use a Group A or small turbo Escos gasket! cos the pistons are out get them machined cost about £25 a pop,get the crank checked and fit a new set of big ends etc then it's ALL fresh, after all your running in your rings(or if piston/rings tollerances checked in the bores and they come back good you going to use them again) DIDN'T think so lol! ps long studding NOT FOR ME have standard head bolts!


as I said every one got their own ideas!

 

spec is going to be:

t4.63 with machined housing and 40mm restrictor
head is ported polished
siemens 83lbs
4x4 plenum with 10mm spacer
500 type intercooler
bd 14 inlet (been told that standard exhaust should be fine by 1 person then someone else says should be using 16 inlet 14 exhaust)
l8 ECU want to run light anti lag on this
might use wasted spark but had mixed views on this too been told i will lose spark on idle as the plug gap will have to be tighter if i stay with dizzy? which makes sense

all in all i'm looking to make 430 bhp but reliable with good torque

i know there are onley a few head gaskets that can be used with wire rung blocks but get this:
the engine has run for 30k on a cometic multi layer steel gasket WITH THE RINGS LEFT IN i forgot to take them out! shame on me. but seen as it uses next to no oil there is no mix loses no water and has done 30k i'd say i was blood lucky! thats at 22psi and 353bhp 308ftlbs

 

as alyvn said mate everyone u speak to even experianced builders will tell u different things, eg when i was talking to various reguarding wrc head gaskets one company swore by raceline ones the other used the ones that used 2 be £300 odd back in the day!! then long studding wise from memory karl norris doesnt? but others do reccomend it. mine was already long studded so obviously stuck with that lol.

Also as said if u have got to wear in another set of rings then might aswell have a new set of shells while ur at it!!

Cam wise i'd suggest you get advice from whoever is gonna map it as to what cams to use going by what power u want from it!! Bd14 with standard exhaust isnt a problem thou but it all comes down to how ur going to want it to drive and how ur going to use it ie fast road or track etc etc

 

I agree with LHD220TURBO, as regards the ignition though, whilst coilpack is good, it is NOT a performance option, it came about due to cost and emissions, it costs less to make than a distributor etc, and it does give a healthier spark, which is needed to ignite ever weakening fuel mixtures, caused by tightening emissions laws.
It will not automatically cure a problem, despite what some think, your std ignition will be fine certainly at idle, it's at the higher end when on boost and the consequent massive rise in compression ratio(adiabatic) that weaknesses will start to show.
If you intend to stick to L8, which can do the job perfectly well when mapped correctly, I would go coilpack just for peace of mind if nothing else, less parts to go wrong.
Don't bother with closed loop, as correctly mapped it's not needed imo.
Personally I think the coilpack conversion is expensive, esp when compared with the price of some ecu's, but I expect there was an enormous amount of time/cost developing it, but as you alos want AL then would be the easiest to add on sort of thing.
tabetha