Just rebuilt my rst engine using new pistons/oil pump/water pump/shells/bolts/stage 2 head/285t2 cam kit etc. Thought i'd try to build oil pressure by turning engine over on starter motor with no plugs in to ease turning, i also removed fuel pump fuse to stop bore wash but no matter how long i turned engine over ( max 20 secs ) the oil light would not go out. I primed oil pump prior to fitting, dont no whether to risk starting and hoping it will build or what any body had a similar experiance

 

It should go out

Can you see any oil on the camshaft?

Try another couple of cranking sessions. If it won't go out DON'T start the engine!

 

the only oil on the crankshaft is what ive squirted on prior to cranking. try a new switch tommorow there is a allen key headed bolt on the side of the oil pump, if i remove this and fill the pump with oil maybe it will help

 

check your main shells ....some main caps take bigger backed shells .they were honed out by ford sometings to save the block on production...it will measure standard on the crack..but the main caps are bigger...were the new shells flush on either side of the cap when you pushed them on....... i would check buy removing the sump and take a main of....

 

or easyest first ive seen were people have not put a new paper gasket on the pick up pipe to the pump or the gasket has slipped wen putiing the 2 allan key studs in and the gasket is then blocking the hole....

 

the main caps were a nice snug fit when i slid them into position, and the crank was quite tight to turn once the mains were torqued down. I did not use a new gasket for the pick up although it appeared ok i will replace with a new one. Been talking to my boss about it today and he reckons i should have packed oil pump with grease as the oil will run out due it been stood a few week since i built it up.

 

the best way of knowing 4 sure about your shells without having 2 remove anything is, if possible, is 2 look on the back of your old shells, if they are the over sized ones, it will have o/s 0.4 stamped on the back. if your crank is standard size the shells are no longer availble. i can supply you with some shells at 0.25 crank oversize. unfortuatly if your crank is standard, it a full strip down again 2 get your crank machined. i have removed a crank out of a rst b4 whilst the engine is in, but u have 2 remove the gear box, if your car has abs it can b a pain in the arse. also it's tight on inner wing when trying 2 line your oil pump back up. i'd take the lot out if doing it again.

 

oil pump needs filling up if you did not do this when you rebuilt the engine and is new it will not work

 

i did fill the pump when i built it around two months ago so it could easily have run out. i checked my shells this morning and they are standard size, my crank got mesured by an engineering firm when i had it all balanced up and they said there was no wear so the jurnels were polished and new standard shells fitted. I coated every moving part in torco engine rebuild lube so i think i may finish building the engine up , fire it up in conjunction with an oil pressure gauge and hope it picks up, if not, twating sump off again

 

take oil feed off the turbo and turn over see if oil is being pumped if so start it up and see if light goes out

 

problem sorted think oil pump was air locked so i put around8 litres of oil in engine and turned it over again . i removed oil pressure switch turned it over and it started to flow thanks for all ya help lads