Electric Choke
I have an 1.6 CVH in a kit car running an twin choke Weber 28/32 TLDM with the water heated choke. I wish to convert it into an electric choke to get rid of all the water pipes. Is there another carb that will bolt staight onto the CVH manifold with an electric choke off another Ford ?
Can I fit another electric choke straght into the existing TLDM carb?
Any body any suggestions, any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for looking.
Cheers
Veeman
Can I fit another electric choke straght into the existing TLDM carb?
Any body any suggestions, any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks for looking.
Cheers
Veeman
You have venturi sizes of 21 + 23mm, the 2L version fitted to the sierra/granada 1989-1991 has venturi sizes of 23 + 25mm, is also a TLDM carb, and has electric choke as std.
I would say 99.9% that the carb will bolt straight on, if not he lecky choke certainly does.
The problem you will have is the choke is not fed with 12v, it is fed normally by a dedicated supply tapped from a single winding in the alternator, so is about 8 volts, this is also the one used to feed tachos on diesels.
feeding it with 12volts will turn it off well before time, a way around this is to use a older ballast resistor unit in line from a older ignition system, as the coils on these are around 8 volts, so will cut it down nicely.
The TLDM is actually quite a good carb, the only major prob they have is the vac secondary is prone to seizure.
tabetha
I would say 99.9% that the carb will bolt straight on, if not he lecky choke certainly does.
The problem you will have is the choke is not fed with 12v, it is fed normally by a dedicated supply tapped from a single winding in the alternator, so is about 8 volts, this is also the one used to feed tachos on diesels.
feeding it with 12volts will turn it off well before time, a way around this is to use a older ballast resistor unit in line from a older ignition system, as the coils on these are around 8 volts, so will cut it down nicely.
The TLDM is actually quite a good carb, the only major prob they have is the vac secondary is prone to seizure.
tabetha
as tabetha said pretty much, although you can just change the choke unit form another carb.
weber made it so you could select which choke without having to redesign the carb.
to be honest i'd use the water controlled one, the electric ones don't tend to be as good and break more often than not.
how about a manual choke setup, they can still be bought new.
weber made it so you could select which choke without having to redesign the carb.
to be honest i'd use the water controlled one, the electric ones don't tend to be as good and break more often than not.
how about a manual choke setup, they can still be bought new.
Thanks for the quick replies and good info. I did think about an manual choke as a last resort. When I priced one up the other day it would be £63 delivered to the door. I don't know if there is any where that will come up with a better price. Is there any other place I could look up, that any one knows!
Once again thanks for your replies it's appreciated.
Cheers
Veeman
Once again thanks for your replies it's appreciated.
Cheers
Veeman
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I would make a lever arrangement, as the actual movement of the choke mech is small compared with the pull of the choke knob, so just at one end of the lever have an eye(hole) that fits over/around the lug sticking out from the coke mech, other end of the lever is where cable attaches with solderless nipple(bike shop) then find a pivot point that is appropriate somewhere between the two.
Ie if the cable moves say 6cm and the choke mech pin moves 2cm that is a 6 to 2 or as it's better know a 3 to 1 ratio, now divide the arm/lever length by three and put the pivot point at the 1/3 distance from the choke end.
tabetha
Ie if the cable moves say 6cm and the choke mech pin moves 2cm that is a 6 to 2 or as it's better know a 3 to 1 ratio, now divide the arm/lever length by three and put the pivot point at the 1/3 distance from the choke end.
tabetha
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