redzuki1

Ladies and Gents,
Firstly: Hello, I’m a newbie “poster” to the forum, but have been a Cossie lover for many years. A couple of problems have arisen recently and I was wondering if anybody could help? I have tried the search option, but the nail was not hit on the head. I have tried to include as much issue detail as possible, so please expect a lengthy post.
I have recently returned a 1990 Ford Sierra Sapphire RS Cosworth 4x4 to the road, only to then take it back off again for winter. I noticed the following:
1. Issue:
Heavy power steering, audible straining at slow speed (maybe due to the lack of wind and tyre noise), slipping belt, dark red/dark brown PAS fluid, PAS reservoir cap always overflows, PAS fluid appears aerated at times.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Car runs the twin alternator and single PAS belts setup. I recently changed the PAS fluid twice with the correct grade (albeit Halfords) utilising a typical fully system flushing method turning the wheel from lock to lock several times in order to fully drain the steering rack. Re-filling the system using a similar reversed method flushing the old fluid out, I still find that the aforementioned issues remain? I have noticed that one of the rubber PAS hoses appears to be degrading and it was damp to touch as well as looking fairly perished. The hose in question is located low on the NSF just above the LH track rod, connecting the rack to the reservoir. It is a black rubber flexible item clipped/clamped onto one chassis mounted metal pipe and one rack mounted metal pipe. The chassis mounted end is the one that appears to be leaking/perishing. I suspect there to be an air leak twinned with this dampness (hence the aerated fluid) and guess that this is the cause of the discolouring fluid? I had driven the car for some distance until this was noticed and am therefore hoping that the inner rack seals will not have been damaged? I have heard of a “steering rack seal rejuvenating additive” that comes recommended to me from a past colleague mechanic/technician. I read on the forum about the potential for “a sticky valve in the PAS pump”? One can “undo the discharge adaptor and clean out the valve bore?” – RS Gary
Questions:
What is the issue? How do you rate the “steering rack seal rejuvenating additives”? Is this a common issue and if so what is the common fix? What is the part number of the hose in question? With respect to the belt slipping after many re-tightening exercises – is it common for the PAS pump shaft to be bent? Worth a dial gauge check?

2. Issue:
Alternator belts always squeal despite re-tensioning.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
When putting the vehicle in question back on the road I replaced both alternator belts as well as the PAS belt and have lost count of the number of times that I have had to re-tension them due to squealing. It is so bad that if I was to not re-tension once a week the belts would erode down, covering the local area in “belt dust/fragments” until finally snapping. All belts were replaced with the correct “Gates” items purchased from Motorsport Developements via ebay. Surely the fix here is not to constantly apply a “belt dressing (silicone based?)”? I drew a black line from the tensioner onto the alternator body itself and so am sure the tensioner is not slipping.
Questions:
Is it common for the alternator shaft to be bent? Worth a dial gauge check? Can anyone advise with respect to the belt dressings - review? Hang on, PAS and alternator belt slipping issues – could it be the crank pulley being misaligned?

3. Issue:
Clonking on OSF strut assembly when travelling over pot-holes.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
In order to pass the most recent MOT I replaced the OSF spring and damper as a section of spring had broken off and the damper spring cup was 50% rusted through. I re-installed the unit as per the reversal of disassembly according to the Haynes manual and torqued bolts/nuts where access allowed. Almost certain that this clonking came about due to this strut replacement job.
Questions:
Did I tighten the top damper to strut tower locking/nylock nut enough? What could this be?

4. Issue:
Front bumper “decorative trim” has come unstuck.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Trim feature appears to be stuck on with some kind of double sided tape and located at each end of the trim strip in a small recess within the bumper moulding itself in front of each front wheel?
Questions:
Anybody else have this issue? How did you fix it? Is their a knack for removing it?

5. Issue:
Window surrounds are “bubbling” due to corrosion underneath.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Appears to have this issue on 4x passenger compartment doors.
Questions:
How does one fix this issue – just replace the window surrounds? Is a repair possible?

6. Issue:
Filler cap will not stay closed.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Just bad adjustment?
Questions:
If you have had this issue then how did you fix it?

7. Issue:
Slightly worn drivers outer bolster.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
A common problem I agree, it’s not even that bad.
Questions:
Which leather feeding products have you used and how did you get on as I do not really want to pay somebody to connolise the bolster? Before and after pictures?

8. Issue:
Drivers boot release is not operational.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
A recent fault as it was working.
Questions:
IS this a common problem and if so what is the normal issue?

9. Issue:
Badly damaged front jacking points
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Looks to have bee caused by bully boy mechanics in a rush. They have essentially collapsed and started rusting.
Questions:
Has this happened to anybody else? If so then how did you fix it? I was thinking of popping down a scrap heap with an angle grinder and cutting some good front jacking points away to then re-weld them onto the Cossie? Good plan, or should I just cut away the bad parts on the Cossie and hand make the remaining steel areas to weld in? Has anybody tried to “pull” the jacking points back into position?

10. Issue:
Exhaust tailpipe has melted the surrounding bumper.
Notes/problem history/thoughts:
Due to exhaust misalignment.
Questions:
Has this happened to anybody else? If so then how did you fix it? I was thinking of getting a fibreglass kit and using some shaped aluminium to lay up on directly onto the bumper (and then trim) as I’ve done this successfully in the past?

Again, apologies for such a lengthy post. I just thought the more information the better.

Thanks very much guys - any help is very much appreciated.

Kind regards,

Alex

Neil S

iTrader: (1)

8) - Have a look on the top of the lock mechanism on the rear panel - there's a little catch that deactivates the cable so the remote release doesn't work. IIRC, the 'up' position is active. This has happened to me when I've had a bootful of gear - I didn't even know the catch was there after about 4yrs of owning the car!!

Neil.

PS am interested in answers to 5) as mine are awful.

tabetha

The power steering issue is as you say, air getting in the works along with a stuck pump, the power supplied is speed proportional, ie the slower the more assistance it gives, don't know about any valve in the pump, but other ford pumps fit if necessary.
The seal swellers do work well, but only for a while, made by LECWEC, ones that I have used before.
Never seen a bent pump shaft, just look visually if it looks straight when rotating this is good enough.
If the belt is slipping this is why you don't have much assitance.
Don't go anywhere near it with belt dressing, as you have already used this, wipe all surfaces with white spirit/meths/petrol etc to degrease, then put new belts on, adjust normally, if they slip when correctly adjusted sprinkle some talcum powder on pulleys where the belt rubs, this is mildly abrasive and will clean up the surfaces.
I would check all the pulleys are aligned correctly.
The clonking issue may not be the strut, have you checked the bushes on tca and arb, so long as nut on top of shock was nice and tight on lower cup squashing the bearing between it and spring seat, and the top in engine bay one was tight, can't see how it would clonk.
You can get new trims, about £15, if fitting one use panel wipe or similar to degrease the surface before applying, if not too bad though just re-stick yours down with loctite 5900 or 5910, this is a flange sealant that you can use on pretty much anything else so won't be wasted, just tape trim on for 10 minutes whilst sealant goes off.
Window surround needs replacing.
Filler cap, assume your is a 4wd ?, if so check the cable release is not stuck in the release position.
Cable can stick on the release mech for boot and cap.
The jacking points are dead on a lot of cossies with idiots being brutal here, any you cut off a scrappy car are going to be old as well, maybe see if they can be got pattern from someone like www.carpanels.co.uk, or weld some arrangement there with new metal.
Bumper melt is common especially with large bore tailpipes, most just use a aluminium heat panel etc.
tabetha

redzuki1

Neil S:

5, 8)
Thanks for the reply. I shall have a look at this one when the weather is not miserable and the girlfriend is not around. I have done some more searching on this forum and found that new window surrounds can be purchased brand new from Ford for £41 each. Not sure how recent that value is, but as I imagine the job being a pain to do I would prefer to do it with brand new components to make sure I only do the job once.

tabetha:

1, 2)
Again, thanks for the lengthy reply. It might be a wise idea to replace all of the power steering flexible rubber hoses because then I know where I stand with the car and its PAS. As I said before, it's been like that for maybe 2000 miles of driving? Seal damage likely? Just replace the required hoses, use the "seal sweller", give the whole system an uber flush and go from there? Thank you for the "LECWEC" brand name - most useful. I have access to some dial gauges at work so I think I'll have a look at the shafts as a matter of course. I will post results and hopefully some pictures.

I've not heard of the talcum powder method before, thanks again. Prior to replacing the belts I plan to whip the pulleys off to give them a good sand blast and re-paint. Can you recommend a good paint for this specific area? I have used "VHT spray paint" on the pulleys for Bentley Turbo R's before with good results, but the vehicle in question seems very sensitive to all things belt related. Pulley alignment - yes I'll do this.

3)
The outer track control arms have been replaced with poly' items, but the inners do look very tired and are part of my renovation programme. I plan to up rate them to the same poly' brand - just need to find out what brand the outers are! Anti-roll bar bushes did not look to bad - I will investigate further. I am certain that I re-built the damper correctly, but again as a matter of course I will disassemble to investigate. Should be easy to do since I'm dropping the entire front suspension anyway to do a cosmetic renovation as well as replace the RH side damper and spring.

4)
I think I'll remove the front bumper trim completely, clean all surfaces and re-apply. Thanks.

5)
I plan to source new window surrounds from Ford directly.

6)
The vehicle is a 4x4 - I'll check the cables. Thanks.

9)
With respect to jacking points - my thoughts entirely regarding the potential donor vehicles. Can't see the pictures on the carpanels.co.uk site at the moment - thanks for the point on the right direction.

10)
I think I will try some aluminium tape on the inside of the bumper cut-out as I find the larger aluminium surrounds not to my liking aesthetically speaking.

Thanks for your help.

Regards,

Alex

tabetha

Any half decent pipe place can make the hoses up for you, not as bad a price as ford's new I wouldn't have thought.
The window surround is very easy to do.
I just use normal cheapo hammerite paint, but mine is everyday car, do 300-400 miles a week in it, so not into it looking good, though it does get washed at least twice a year.
tabetha