On a cossie how hard a job is it?

 

It doesn't matter what the engine is, if you know how it is easy, just need the right kit.
tabetha

 

So what your saying its hard to do then because if im asking i obviously dont know how to do it?

 

No not at all, to do it I normally use a degree disc to find the centre point of rock of the cam and the crank, using a dial gauge/degree disc/pointer then go from there.
There is a cheat way on some engines if you just time as std then lock things in position then fit vernier(adjustment) loose, tension belt then tighten vernier adjustment up.
This will put it in the std position, unless you have certain mods a vernier is unlikely to achieve anything.
It's quite easy, just take your time, do it once do it right.

 

I have 6.8 comp ratio,ported & polished cnc head , bd16 cams so im thinking it really should have verneirs (sp)

 

It would defo be a good idea to get the best, but would still work okay with the std pulleys as they are keyed in to this when profiling the cams, the verniers give the option of dialling in and moving either way by small increments to try to extract every last drop.
The first thing I always do is establish the TRUE TDC, ie don't beleive the crank pulley, it may be right but costs nothing to check.
Then attach a degree disc, with a wire pointwer fixed over it, you will find TDC, as shown on the DTI in plug hole will occupy a few degrees say 4-6(example only) thus your true tdc is midpoint between these, I call this the rock as the rod changes stroke, find the rock on the cams also, middle point again, then you have refference points from where to set the cam manufacturers figures.
This will get you pretty close, but thw hole point of a cam swing si to see if a llittle more/less advance retard ups power or makes for a better torque spread etc.
So as you see not hard a bit time consuming, but well worth doing, but as I said there is the cheat way, ifbeing swung/dialled in on rollers anyway, would be ok.
tabetha

 

carlo check on the website of whoevers cams you have...

they will give you the dial in figures, it is critical its right, it also can effect afr in a big way, so make sure its checked carefully afterwards, its ideal to do this before mapping.

the website should give you a max lift figure of xxx degrees, use a crank disc to measure and turn crank from true tdc to this xxx figure,

thats where your cam should be at max lift, adjust to suit using a dti to measure the full lift.

this is the basic procedure to do them..



Install a dial indicator for checking the height of the intake valve lift.

Rotate the crankshaft to TDC (top dead center) and install a degree wheel on the crankshaft. Then install the degree wheel pointer aimed at the zero position of the degree wheel and also align the zero position of the dial indicator to the indicator’s needle as a reference point.

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the dial indicator reads maximum lift and reset the indicator to zero.

Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise until the dial indicator reads 0.100”

Rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the indicator reads 0.050”.

Record the degree wheel reading.

Rotate the crankshaft further clockwise until the indicator rises to maximum lift and back to 0.050”.

Record the degree wheel reading.

Add the two readings from the degree wheel and divide by 2 to find the intake centerline for your setup.
Example: 156 + 46 = 202, 202/2 = 101

Compare your intake centerline to the intake centerline listed on your camshaft's spec sheet. (The numbers should be the same although ˝ degree either side is an acceptable)





in my experience the yb crank mark is spot on, but its worth checking tdc is on the money.

once done turn engine over by hand, feel for any contact, then re check max lift.


try quaife for verniers the do 909 style ones which are nice...like mine.

 

Fuck james im lost proper i will hae to get someone to do it im sure its kent bd16 cams i would need to find out tho