good evening!

i wish to change my brake fluid, my car is solely for track, so im thinking of using this fluid:

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-892-motu...ems-dot-4.aspx

heard decent things about it, not as good as Castrol SRF, but the price is nowhere near it either so im not expecting the same! anyone here use it for track?

also going to fit 1.9 calipers and braided front lines at the same time, to my 205 1.6 gti.

now regardless of which fluid i do actually get, i do not want to mix whichever fluid is in the system at the minute with the new stuff, so if i followed this process would this be any good:

1. open all 4 bleed valves at the same time

2. pump the brake pedal without topping any more fluid in, until the system is dry.

3. pour new fluid into reservoir, with all 4 bleed valves open, pump brake pedal until fluid starts to appear out of each valve. as fluid appears close each valve in turn.

4. bleed system starting back nearside, back offside, front nearside, front offside as the car is right hand drive.

5. take for a drive to see how it feels!!


i have heard in the past that you shouldnt let the reservoir empty as this would get air in the system obviously, but if im changing the fluid and bleeding the system through, would this be ok?

also if i wanted to 'flush' the system, what would i use/do to achieve this?

thanks in advance, i tried to search for this but could not find the relevant topic.

thank you

craig

 

To get out as much as possible you would need to disconnect the lines at the master cylinder, and blow some air down them wit the bleed nipple open, then take the master cylinder apart as there will be some left in there as well which won't readily come out.
The just reassemble, bleed master cylinder, then the brakes, all should be well, might as well fit braided lines as well if not already got them, as they improve matters quite a bit.
tabetha

 

braided lines going on the front!

as for bleeding the master cylinder before the brakes, how would one do that exactly?

cheers by the way tabetha, you are a genius and always have great answers!

 

I'd actually read that as how not to do it to be honest.

Blowing a line with just air will force all the crap inside the line or lodged in the caliper up into the caliper and around the seals and you may begin to suffer severe problems due to this. It is certainly something we would not recommend doing.

Its much better to flush the system with some cheaper same grade fluid Dot 3 Dot 4 or Dot 5.1 or whatever to remove the old spent fluid.

Then switch to the fluid you wish to use and re bleed with that.

That way you never let the lines run dry so the seals in the master cylinder and calipers will not get dislodged by dirt / air thus saving you potential big time grief.

Bleed 1 line at a time so back nearside > front offside and then back o/s front n/s
Keep the calipers not being bled closed.

How do I know if I have flushed enough through when switching to the good stuff...

Note how much you use when you do the initial flush from dirty to clean !!

We use ATE Blue in our competition cars which is a Blue Race Fluid and that way changing the fluid is easy when the colour changes your done !!

Dont worry about the fact you may have 0.1% or whatever of the old fluid in, as its a track car you should be at the least changing it every 12 months or as often as you like during the season.

Link is dead so I can't see what it is you have selected but if you have a Pug which is a light car it will possibly be overspecced as a standard GTi caliper will never EVER be able to dissipate enough heat for it to run a high spec fluid in its confort zone.

Ie there is no point buying a 500 fluid if the caliper will never see temps of over 200 etc You will be changing it often so wet/dry figures are pointless as it should never get "wet"

Tony

 

Just bleed !!!one at a time -new fluid replaces old as you bleed!!!!!
You will eventualy have new fluid in the system-
i presurise the master cylinder then release each nipple in turn eventually replacing old with new!!-who pumps bloody brakes these days--------lol

 

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-892-motu...ems-dot-4.aspx

its motul dot 4 fully synthetic! ill just bleed new fluid through,

tho that blue fluid is a great idea!!

ill borrow my mates eazibleed system and do itunder pressure

 

All I can say is in 25 years doing it this way I have never had a problem, but if nuts rs has lots of crap floating around in his brake lines it's his choice.
Any crap floating around would be forced out with the fluid carrying it, if the fluid didn't carry it it would not be able to go anywhere anyway, where is the last place the fluid goes under pressure, outside, i'm not talking 500 psi here, just 10/15psi will get the job done.
I personally never follow a sequence either as I have never yet found it to be of any benefit, I also use a eezibleed, on the front and rear of my cars including the cossie and it's perfect every time, but I use 10 year fluid, usafe stuff.
tabetha

 

thanks tabs!

 

nuts rus, where do you get your ate blue fluid from? been reccomended that on pug forum, so going to invest, opie oils dont seem to supply it, google isnt coming up with much!

 

Its on Ebay for about £21 per litre delivered or I have it for £19

ECP have some cheaper stuff but make sure it is the same spec