Error Code 1+2 Sapph 4x4.......???
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Error Code 1+2 Sapph 4x4.......???
Im getting the code 1+2 which the manual says is the Distributor Phase Sensor Circuit.
Ive fitted a new Phase Sensor but it had made no difference........
Any idea's what this could mean?
Ive fitted a new Phase Sensor but it had made no difference........
Any idea's what this could mean?
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can you enlighten me?
What exactly is involved.......
Ive fitted the Phase Sensor in accordance with the manual.
Is there something ive missed?
It runs perfectly fine except for the high idle problem (that nobody seems to have an answer for....)
What exactly is involved.......
Ive fitted the Phase Sensor in accordance with the manual.
Is there something ive missed?
It runs perfectly fine except for the high idle problem (that nobody seems to have an answer for....)
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mal-adjusted ICSV.
the piston had been wound too far down the bore by the top nut.
so a full strip, clean and check, and on advice from Another Cossie Specialist altered the inner heavier poundage spring slightly in length thus pushing the piston further up the bore agains't the lesser top spring.
Once reassembled i was Gob Smacked that it worked perfectly.......
I thought as it was i was going to have to leave it disconnected anyway so i had nothing to lose by trying, and sure it worked a treat.......
Thanks anyway for the help
If you have any idea's why im still getting the 1+2.........
the piston had been wound too far down the bore by the top nut.
so a full strip, clean and check, and on advice from Another Cossie Specialist altered the inner heavier poundage spring slightly in length thus pushing the piston further up the bore agains't the lesser top spring.
Once reassembled i was Gob Smacked that it worked perfectly.......
I thought as it was i was going to have to leave it disconnected anyway so i had nothing to lose by trying, and sure it worked a treat.......
Thanks anyway for the help
If you have any idea's why im still getting the 1+2.........
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No, just that somebody for whatever reason had wound the nut down too far on the thread, opening up the bleed.........
A firned had brought 2 off his spares to mine with hi to try but i had already fixed it by then, he hadn't noticed though until i showed him that the 2 he had were adjusted differently to start with.....
Just goes to show.........
A firned had brought 2 off his spares to mine with hi to try but i had already fixed it by then, he hadn't noticed though until i showed him that the 2 he had were adjusted differently to start with.....
Just goes to show.........
#10
I still think you have a problem personally....
If the idle valve was actually open all the time due to missadjustment, then unplugging it would do what to your idle speed?
NOTHING AT ALL.
It sounds to me that you have a duty cycle being applied to your valve by the ecu.. when the system is working perfectly, there is NO operating current at the connector, hence plugging it on and off does nothing.
At least all appears sound now mate, lets hope you havent just masked the problem by adjusting the valve to need more current than normal to open it though.
EXAMPLE:
With the crank sync error code you are now getting.. you SHOULD have a high idle speed.... after your adjustments.. you do not.....
If the idle valve was actually open all the time due to missadjustment, then unplugging it would do what to your idle speed?
NOTHING AT ALL.
It sounds to me that you have a duty cycle being applied to your valve by the ecu.. when the system is working perfectly, there is NO operating current at the connector, hence plugging it on and off does nothing.
At least all appears sound now mate, lets hope you havent just masked the problem by adjusting the valve to need more current than normal to open it though.
EXAMPLE:
With the crank sync error code you are now getting.. you SHOULD have a high idle speed.... after your adjustments.. you do not.....
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>EXAMPLE:
>With the crank sync error code you are now getting.. you SHOULD have
>a high idle speed.... after your adjustments.. you do not..... [/quote]
You may well be right, but you still haven't said what you think is happening when im getting the 1+2 Code but the engine runs fine (apart from the earlier idle problem).
Should the engine run at all if it is sending out a code?
>With the crank sync error code you are now getting.. you SHOULD have
>a high idle speed.... after your adjustments.. you do not..... [/quote]
You may well be right, but you still haven't said what you think is happening when im getting the 1+2 Code but the engine runs fine (apart from the earlier idle problem).
Should the engine run at all if it is sending out a code?
#12
Stu @ M Developments,
Phase syncronisation.
Hve you syncronised it?
Phase syncronisation.
Hve you syncronised it?
Yes i did mate
Yes, the L8 will substitute a value to keep it running and give a 1300 - 1500 rpm idle to indicate a fault is present.
has it always had this high idle problem as long as youve owned it M8?
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Stu,
The engine was already out of the car when i got it, so until i connected it all up i hadn't heard it running.
So tell me more about the synchronisation as you didn't actually say what it is
if thats something the manual doesn't tell you about then that could be it.
So come on spill the beans.......
The engine was already out of the car when i got it, so until i connected it all up i hadn't heard it running.
So tell me more about the synchronisation as you didn't actually say what it is
if thats something the manual doesn't tell you about then that could be it.
So come on spill the beans.......
#14
The manual should explain it i think..
Its the syncronisation (alignment) between the cam sensor and the cranksensor..
Ive just come back from mapping and am going home to bed so if that doesnt throw any light on the subject, let me know and il explain tomoz if i get time.
Its the syncronisation (alignment) between the cam sensor and the cranksensor..
Ive just come back from mapping and am going home to bed so if that doesnt throw any light on the subject, let me know and il explain tomoz if i get time.
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Stu,
I do think you're right, but obviously i will need to check it.
So if you could please explain why the synchronisation is important and how you go about setting it up or checking its right as i haven't found anythin specific about it.....
Much appreciated
I do think you're right, but obviously i will need to check it.
So if you could please explain why the synchronisation is important and how you go about setting it up or checking its right as i haven't found anythin specific about it.....
Much appreciated
#16
Ok,
Withe the engine at TDC and the cams both aligned pointing at each other.
Whip the dist cap, rotor arm and splash shield off and look at the distributor body mounting face. (The part the cap contacts when its fitted.)
Towards the plenum side, there is a scribe mark in the body, and this signifies the phase alignment position at TDC. The centre of the rotor arm should point here mate.
If it doesnt, slacken the distributor body and rotate it until it does.
thats the crank / phase syncronisation mate.
Withe the engine at TDC and the cams both aligned pointing at each other.
Whip the dist cap, rotor arm and splash shield off and look at the distributor body mounting face. (The part the cap contacts when its fitted.)
Towards the plenum side, there is a scribe mark in the body, and this signifies the phase alignment position at TDC. The centre of the rotor arm should point here mate.
If it doesnt, slacken the distributor body and rotate it until it does.
thats the crank / phase syncronisation mate.
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Bugger
Im sure thats exactly what i did. iaw workshop manual........
OK, so is there any specific way to clear the codes?
If im still getting the 1+2 (and it seems to be running ok!!!) then what on earth could that mean???
Cheers
Im sure thats exactly what i did. iaw workshop manual........
OK, so is there any specific way to clear the codes?
If im still getting the 1+2 (and it seems to be running ok!!!) then what on earth could that mean???
Cheers
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