very quick question headgasket
#1
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very quick question headgasket
anyone got a little tip on doing headgaskets on a cast head (any easy ways of doing it properly) as they weigh a bloody ton and u gotta reach far to get it to the engine.
1. is it just a case of cleaning up the 2 faces so they have no dirt/grease/oil/water etc on em. lining the headgasket up the right way, then placing the head on ---- check headgasket position, then tighten down??
engine 2.0 pinto with a bleedin heavy cast iron head
1. is it just a case of cleaning up the 2 faces so they have no dirt/grease/oil/water etc on em. lining the headgasket up the right way, then placing the head on ---- check headgasket position, then tighten down??
engine 2.0 pinto with a bleedin heavy cast iron head
#2
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get a couple of head bolts cut the heads off them and slit the top for a screwdriver to fit, fit these to two of the holes in the block so you can align the gasket ad head properly.
also have the heas skimmed first.
also have the heas skimmed first.
#3
20K+ Super Poster.
You will only NEED the head skimmed if warped, as iron heads much better in this repsect than alloy.
I used to use two long bits of GARDEN CANE in one front one rear bolt hole, about 18" long.
One thing I always did was to do up the bolt nearest the oilway between head/block another 15lb ft, and this stops the weep and damp patch caused by oil seepage through the gasket.
I used all the time FELPRO BLUE head gaskets.
I also modded the cam retainer, the one on the rear of the head that goes in the slot in the cam to control float, by welding a nut on it, so that I could tighten a bolt in there against the cam, so swapping over a to a vernier wheel you are still assured of the std cam position, as a good starting point, ensuring no bent valves!!.
Modded heads work well on these as well, mine was done by ROLAND HAYES, of HT racing fame.
If using a fast road cam etc, use the LONGER ball studs for the finger levers/rockers, as I had one rip out the head, fortunately NO damage, other than 80 mile drive on 3 cylinders, and hills were a problem like that!!
tabetha
tabetha
I used to use two long bits of GARDEN CANE in one front one rear bolt hole, about 18" long.
One thing I always did was to do up the bolt nearest the oilway between head/block another 15lb ft, and this stops the weep and damp patch caused by oil seepage through the gasket.
I used all the time FELPRO BLUE head gaskets.
I also modded the cam retainer, the one on the rear of the head that goes in the slot in the cam to control float, by welding a nut on it, so that I could tighten a bolt in there against the cam, so swapping over a to a vernier wheel you are still assured of the std cam position, as a good starting point, ensuring no bent valves!!.
Modded heads work well on these as well, mine was done by ROLAND HAYES, of HT racing fame.
If using a fast road cam etc, use the LONGER ball studs for the finger levers/rockers, as I had one rip out the head, fortunately NO damage, other than 80 mile drive on 3 cylinders, and hills were a problem like that!!
tabetha
tabetha
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how would i know if the head is warped?? methinks its just the careless fitting of the last gasket that did it. is there any sure fire way of finding out if it is warped
#5
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Invert the head place on blocks of wood to support it, use a straight edge(steel rule) and place it on top, and slide it gently from back to front, and look for any dips.
If unsure, or any amount of miles a skim might be a good idea anyway.
If the car has not been seriously over heated prior to head removal then it should be fine, just use a FELPRO BLUE HG.
tabetha
If unsure, or any amount of miles a skim might be a good idea anyway.
If the car has not been seriously over heated prior to head removal then it should be fine, just use a FELPRO BLUE HG.
tabetha
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