CosRush

2x large outlets on front of engine and a smaller outlet on thermostat housing to heater, and another from Oil cooler modine.

I'd like to know which way the coolant flows before stat opening and after.

Anybody know?

velocity

coolant flows from the stat housing outlet pipe which points to the header tank and down into the top of the rad,it then goes accross the rad and up the hose from the bottom of the rad to the inlet on the front cover of the stat housing.the water is blocked at this point until the stat opens,when it does, water is then drawn down into the water pump and circulated around the block and up through the head and the back out the stat housing outlet pipe.
the pipe from the header tank that goes down under and accross the bottom and up into the waterpump is only the system fill and level maintainer by balancing with the turbo water cooling pipe the also goes to the headertank.
if you look inside the stat housing you will see a hole at the back which is access to head water now if you look at the bottom of the stat you will see a small spring loaded plate a little bigger than the hole.when you install the stat there will be a small bit of clearance between the hole and the stat bottom plate,this is to allow hot head water leak in around the stat and cause it to open at around 82 degrees celcius,when this happens the bottom plate blocks off the hole and the full circulation begins and the already stagnent hot water that was sitting in the rad starts flowing around the stat and keeps it open,from this point on it the fans job to keep the system at optimium temp
as far as before stat opening with regards to oil cooler and heater,water will drawn down into the pump impeller from the heater pipe which runs along the top of the exhaust manifold and into the stat housing water will then exit the head via the oil cooler inlet pipe then circulate around the oil cooler and out the outlet pipe and around the back of the block and into the heater matrix then out of the heater matrix and back into the pipe which goes into the stathousing.when the stat opens the flow is similar though there may be a differance in flow rates
jaysus i,m bolixed after that

CosRush

My install is slightly different but here's what ive got...

Can you see any problems?

Ive got the outlet from thermostat housing (right hand when looking from front) going to the top of the Rad. The left hand inlet is connected to the bottom of the Rad.
I dont have a heater so the expansion tank is connected directly to the smaller outlet on the thermostat housing.

Trouble i am always seeing near 100deg's...

Ive removed the Turbo cooling feed, and its made no difference.

When its running, the top hose gets vert hot, the bottom hose only warm, so i gues fan is doing the trick. but the upper part of the return hose from the rad appears to have air in in. even when the stat should be happen this hose is ony warm. i can squeeze th pipe easily and big bubbles gurgle in the expansion tank, but it does NOT feel like the air is replaced with water, as i believe that when the air is replaced with water the hose becomes much harder to squeeze.

I haven't a clue why this is hapening . Any thoughts?

velocity

ok,if you look at the top of the stat cover you should see a littlle 8mm bolt head this is to assist in bleeding the system,when the engine is cold top up the water tank to the max level, unscrew this bolt and you should have water comming out,if not do this to bleed it, squeeze the left hand hose which is connected to the bottom of the rad and hold,then place your finger over the open bolt hole and then release the hose,do this several times in that sequence until you have water coming out the bolt hole,
you may have a stat problem so try this,,after doing the above let the engine warm up until the fans cut in,as soon as they cut out feel the bottom hose just were it exits the rad and around the rad in that area, if its cold you have a circulation problem caused by the stat not opening fully or staying closed.anothe problem is that the rad could be blocked which is common enough only proper solution is a new one unfortunatly,
you say above that your expansion tank is connected to the small outlet on the stat housing,this is incorrect .the lower outlet of your expansion tank should run down under the engine and accross the back of the rad and depending on which configuration either directly into the bottom hose or up on its own into the water pump,the upper outlet connects to the turbo cooling pipe,which i would reconnect,you could also suspect the gauge for accuracy,is it seperate gauge and if so were is the sensor located
let me know how you get on

CosRush

Can you confirm the following:

Left hand is inlet from Bottom of rad.
Right hand is outlet to Top of rad.
Green is from Expansion Tank.

Question... if the water returning from the rad via the bottom hose to the (left hand) inlet, then if it is sufficiently cooled (below that of the stat) then surely the stat wont open???

This cant be right, so what ami missing?

velocity

the left hand and r/h are correct but the green arrow pipe should be connected to the steel pipe running aft over the exhaust manifold and into the heater through the bulkhead,if you have no heater just blank it off or better still connect it into the oil cooler hose where they should meet at the bulkhead where the 2 heater pipes stubs stick through,
the stat is only there to bring the water/engine up to optium temp quickly,and once open the water temp will lower slightly for a short while but will rise eventually,the water exiting the head will still be getting hotter,beacuse the water comming in in from the rad is also getting hotter and its initial mix cooling effect is diminished,it reaches a point where if there is no air flow accross the rad the temp will increase until boil over,thats were the fans do there job,they will cool the water enough to prevent this and may also cool the water sufficently to close the stat,and then the process starts all over again.
if you can see the braided hose comming out of the side/bottom of the water pump housing,thats the one that should be connected to the bottom outlet on your expansion tank.thats the way it is on my 4x4

CosRush

Excellent repsonse

so, now realising that i have some of the hoses the wrong way around, im deciding what to do about it.

The oil cooler modine, has a hose connected from the head to it, then from it to one of the heater pipes (which i dont have).
If i connect the Expansion tank to the right connection on the water pump, and blank off the return from the stat housing (the one that normally goes to the other heater connector) i'll have a connection from the Oil cooler modine going nowhere.....

What would you suggest i do with this?

Could 'T' into the hose from the expansion tank to the water pump?

Cheers

velocity

the best thing i could sudgest is to connect the proper hose (you may have to purchase one) to the other outlet on the oilcooler and route it around the back of the head as the normal one should go.but from this point get your hands on the steel pipe that goes across the exhaust manifold and connect one end of the steel pipe to the outlet on the stat housing (that you currently have going to your expansion tank) and the other end to the hose you just routed around the back of the head. you may have to make up a tee in piece for it,that way you will have an active oil cooler with full circulation because at the moment you dont.
its essential that the hose from the expansion tank to the waterpump is properly routed down and across and roughly level with the bottom of the rad and up into the water pump,and not t.eed into,the reason for the routing is because water will always find it own level and because the expansion tank max mark is higher that the head,when you fill with water it will be driven by it own weight through the fill hose into the block and continue to fill the lower level of the rad and up to the head trying to find the level of the expansion tank, (it makes it easyer it the bleed bolt is out of the stat cover,
but the way your hose is connected it can only drip feed into the lower levels and may be full with airlocks
the pic above is the way the oil cooler pipes should be connected and routed,the shorter of the oil cooler hose,s goes to the head and the longer one is the one you should connect to the steel pipe mentioned above(and visible in the previous post/picture),and the little stubby pipe comming out of the upper heater outlet pipe you wont need and wont matter.
let me know if you need more

CosRush

Velocity,

Top man Big thanks for your help

Ive just replumbed it, run it, and im amazed at how good it is now....

Since i upgraded my Fan to a 16" it reaches the point at which the fan cuts in, and then it cools down enough to sitch the fans back off in less than a minute.

You can see the needle on the water temp gauge moving...well impressed.

velocity

glad to hear it worked out.