muffster

Gents, some advice please.
My cossie has been in a garaged for 6 years. Im about to put it back on the road when it comes back from the paint shop after a re-spray. The belt was changed before i went into the garage and has probably done only about 5k and still looks in good nick, but to be safe i'd better change it. Can anyone advise me on how its done? is it difficult, whats involved. Im an engineer and learnt a lot over the last 6 months thanks to you lot! and would like to learn how to do it. Or should i get it done by a garage. ( i hate paying labour charges!!)
Many thanks.
Muffster.

Thanks to trevCROSS, i got some boot vents form ford 10 quid a pair.

tabetha

Easy to do, change the tensioner as well at same time just to be safe.
The hardest part is often getting the bottom pulley off or it's bolt undone.
4wd ones seem a lot more trouble than 2wd in this respect, as they seem to have some super tight pulleys.
It is merely a case of aligning the marks on the pulley, which is the LUG NOT the notch, then align so both cams pointers face towards each other, left one at 3 o'clock, right at 9 o'clock, then make sure the rotor arm is directly centred on the scribe mark on the dizzy body.
tabetha

muffster

Thanks for the reply Tabetha.
Which pulley is it which comes off. and is the tensioner easy enough to do. I assume its all behind the belt and its all exposed when the belt comes off. Im happy with the timing marks. (remember my threads from a few months ago) Could you give me a rough step-by-step.
Much appreciated.
Muffster.

tabetha

Pulley that comes off is the CRANK PULLEY.
Tensioner is a doddle as it only held on with one large nut of 24/26mm.
Just line up at TDC, after loosening the bolt(crank pulley) and the two alternator belts, 1 power steering belt.
Then remove pulley, this will either be easy and fall off or could be a real battle, if rusty on the crank nose remove woodruff key and use some FINE lapping paste on crank nose to remove rust, also helps it no end to come off easier in future, replace w/key if done this.
There will be a little metal plate(GUIDE) to remove as well, betweeen crank pulley and belt.
Loosen tensioner via bolt that has a weird round bit on it ie outermost one nearest the top hose, rotate the tensioner so belt can be removed.
You may have to remove the TOP HOSE, to be able to remove the tensioner, not sure but think so.
Reverse procedure for putting back together, note carefully EXACT postion of ROTOR ARM, in relation to scribe mark on dizzy body, mark is very small so maybe highlight with tipex, removing the little heat shiled under the rotor arm helps when timing up.
When setting tension, push hard on the long edge towards the tensioner direction and this wil take up any slack that WILL be there, then you will find it goes looser, so have to reset again tighter.
tabetha

Aaroncast

-are you a better engineer now!!

muffster

Great.
Thanks for the info Tabetha
Muffster.

tabetha

NO probs hope it is of some help.
tabetha