SafeChav

Ah ok

slimwynn

indeed

slimwynn

it's off for a mot at the end of the month they will be able to tell me the CO won't they.dose any one know the what the CO should be??

iansoutham

Normally around 1.1%, although if modified, I would have it set @ 1.5% to 1.8% (especially if cammed).

slimwynn

it's standed

slimwynn

blocked off servo pipe no difference m8 .
one thing is that the cam is f**ked well it's very tapie so i was wandering maybe the valves arn't right,cos when i start it and say i holed the revs at 1500rpm for 10sec's it's fine.
could still be the CO meter but i can't check that untill the end of the month

SafeChav

A worn cam won't be helping matters

slimwynn

is this the potentionmeter

SafeChav

Correct

slimwynn

can u adjust the potentionmeter or is it a fixed setting? just asking as i have one on order and was make sure i can just plug and play.
Q.Whats the screw on the potentionmeter 4?

SafeChav

To adjust the CO.

You'll need to take it to a garage and get it on a CO analyser

slimwynn

i'm still having the same problem with the car when i first start the car the car ticks over nicely, touch the accelerator and hold the rev's then the rev's drop then pick up then drop again and keeps doing this.and when traveling at speed u can feel it not much but it makes the car judder when changing gear u can see the rev counter drop then pick up again once u have dipped the accelerator again.i'v done every thing that the posts have said above + plugs,leads,fuel filter,oil change dose any one eles have any more suggestions.something eles to add is when u have been for a drive and come back and restart the car it runs fine untill your on the road it's like the car is runing on kangaroo juice

slimwynn

slimwynn

could it be any of the following, fuel pump,sensors,fuel lines,injectors,ecu ???????

SafeChav

Possibly?!

slimwynn

is there a plug in port to test the sensors???

SafeChav

you can use a fault code reader but thats about it

GRIFFEN

Try this,,,got this off other thread on XROC.

Turning the CO pot screw will either richen or weaken the mixture at idle and really needs to be set up using a CO meter.

Follow this procedure if you DO NOT have the Weber ISCV in the airbox lid:

Sounds like your base idle is out...this is an idle that is hidden behind the idle you see on your rev counter.

Get the engine up to operating temperature and then leaving the engine running, disconnect the iscv. Revs should drop....may even stall.

From the front of the engine, look at the throttle body..in the 9 0'clock position, you should see a recessed screw. Turning this screw anticlockwise will speed up the idle, clockwise will slow it down. Set the idle at around 700 to 750 rpm. Once done, reconnect the ISCV. Revs will jump up (may jump up) and may "surge" up and down.....do not rev the engine........leave all alone for the revs to settle normally. Turn off engine once surging has stopped and then restart after a minute. If enegine stalls when ISCV is first disconnected, put 1/2 turn on the idle screw, reconnect ISCV and then start engine and go through above procedure again.

Blip the throttle up to 3,000 rpm and release........needle should pause at 1800 rpm for a fraction of a second and then drop to 1350rpm and then slowly drop to normal idle of 950rpm. If the needle "hangs" when release.....base idle is too high. If the needle drops like a stone to normal idle, then base idle is set too low. Have the CO checked after carrying out this procedure and set it to 1.10% with the fan running.

slimwynn

cheers m8 i'll give it a go

slimwynn

right i'v had a go to day this is what happened,right i disconnected the iscv and the rev's slightly droped and i mean slightly,so i thought i'll turn the recessed screw clockwise to turn the revs down and i could'nt as it's screwed right in so i turnred it anticlockwise to check if the screw was stuck,it was'nt.where do i go from here looks like someone has been playing b4

slimwynn

quick question you see the pipe from the ISCV to the inlet pipe what the hell dose it do?? as i took it off to see if it was blocked and found where it gose in to the inlet pipe it's blocked off no air flow in or out

SafeChav

Well the ISCV has to draw in extra air to compensate the idle speed, if goes to the charge carrier so its drawing in air from the main system so its filtered.

Whats it blocked with

slimwynn

it looks like it was made like it,not a bodge that somone has done ,shall i drill a hole if so what size?

MarkN

It couldn't have been made like that. I've got one of those in the shed and the hole goes right through. The ISCV won't work without being able to draw in any air. I've never seen one with a pipe stub but no hole.

There is a different type of EFI duct for the inner wing mounted ISCV. - in this case the ISCV draws its air directly from the air filter - where you have that hose with the white thing jammed in it.

If the plastic duct of the plenum is genuinely blocked then don't drill it out. Instead, unblock that other pipe on the air box and connect the iscv to that. It should then function correctly.

Sounds like your car's air system is made up from a mish-mash of bits of other cars...

slimwynn

yeah you r right there the lad i brought it off was a bit of a blonker i'v had to put a few things right what people have put wrong on most of the fords i'v had