What to try next?
03-01-2004, 02:43 PM
#1
What to try next?
Escort Cosworth with erratic idle.Just changed the ISCV and rechecked the plugs.Idle is still very erratic and it seems to be over fueling sending it onto 3 cylinders straight away.All plugs very black.Reluctant to alter ecu screw at this stage as it ran ok till a couple of weeks ago.Any ideas?
03-01-2004, 03:12 PM
#3
Plugs are black and sooty then it seems to wet one causing it to go off.Seems to be a lot of clicking and ticking around the injectors that i did'nt notice before,or i've caught bloody cossie-itis.
03-01-2004, 06:39 PM
#4
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i had the clicking and ticking round the injectors...........
it was my chip on the way out, scotty replaced it with one of his own and cured.
have you had a new chip or touched yours ???
only an idea m8
it was my chip on the way out, scotty replaced it with one of his own and cured.
have you had a new chip or touched yours ???
only an idea m8
03-01-2004, 08:00 PM
#6
Cheers for that Steve.I doubt it would be that as my chip was altered by Paul Hills not long ago when i went from 8 light greens to 8x803's on safe chip.Something to bear in mind though as the symptoms are similar.Keep the info coming.
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04-01-2004, 09:52 AM
#10
if its not the ect (engine coolant temp) sensor then try the act sensor (brown one on the plenum)
could also be buggerd map sensor or a split vacuum pipe off the plenum
easy way to test if its the ect or act sensors is to start the engine and let it idle, pull the plug of the sensor, then breifly bridge the 2 contacts on the plug with something metal.
doing this will make the ecu think your engine is warm and cut the fuel back
if doing this makes the car run better then you know uve just found the bad sensor!
WARNING doing this can sometimes blow the 30amp fuse found near the ecu. no big problem but just lettin you know incase it happens and you wonder why your car wont start anymore
could also be buggerd map sensor or a split vacuum pipe off the plenum
easy way to test if its the ect or act sensors is to start the engine and let it idle, pull the plug of the sensor, then breifly bridge the 2 contacts on the plug with something metal.
doing this will make the ecu think your engine is warm and cut the fuel back
if doing this makes the car run better then you know uve just found the bad sensor!
WARNING doing this can sometimes blow the 30amp fuse found near the ecu. no big problem but just lettin you know incase it happens and you wonder why your car wont start anymore
04-01-2004, 11:14 PM
#12
check ur intake plenum for air leaks . my saff ran like a sack of shite and i couldnt find the cause , turned out when i rebuilt it i pulled a bit of gasket that was hangin out , and it caused allsorts of probs . u can find a leak using a length of hosepipe to ur ear and listen for any changes in sound around the plenum .
07-01-2004, 04:33 PM
#14
Update.Changed ect sensor,started fine,let it warm up and still running ok.Started to increase the revs and it started to run like shite and went onto 3 again.Also have tested act sensor and checked around plenum area.Any more ideas?
07-01-2004, 04:56 PM
#15
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have you had battery disconnected?... personally, I would disconnect over night, and remove ecu, reconnect all up, idle for 3 mins or so, then fast idle at 1200 rpm for couple mins then drive stedily for 5 miles??? Only a suggestion mate, I know it has cured problems for people before!??
07-01-2004, 10:15 PM
#19
Thanks,Stu.The lambda is new as the wires on the old one had snapped.It has run ok since this was fitted.I have a phase sensor in my previous engine.Should i give this a go.Not sure about the synchro bit but nothing has been disturbed there.The crank sensor is also recent but again it has run ok since fitted.
08-01-2004, 06:56 PM
#21
Just had it running again.Same thing,started and warmed up ok,increased revs to just over 2k and it went straight onto 3 again.Number 4 plug always seems to go first.Swapped them round,still the same.Just had dizzy cap off,gave it a little clean up but nothing really amiss.
08-01-2004, 08:41 PM
#24
yes mate, also inspect wiring as this corrodes, should be a nice bright blue and red.
Sync:
Put crank to No1 TDC
Check center of rotor arm now points to scribe mark in upper distributor mounting face.
gap should also be 0.3mm with crank sensor gapped at 0.8mm.
Good Luck
Sync:
Put crank to No1 TDC
Check center of rotor arm now points to scribe mark in upper distributor mounting face.
gap should also be 0.3mm with crank sensor gapped at 0.8mm.
Good Luck