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Is what it is if you want a top product from a particular company sometimes there is no option and you just have to wait. If your spending a lot of money you want it right. Once it’s done and you have what you pictured the wait will mean nothing
very true mate, the car should be my perfect build when it’s finished.
These are not mine but they are adjustable camber like mine, double welded and has not overheated the oil. Nearly ready for the floor Extra bars near the front door pillars, these will attach to the door crosses and Mark is going to tie in the front turrets through bulkhead. Gussets new in to rear of door shuts too.
Last edited by Caddyshack; Aug 13, 2018 at 05:06 PM.
Yes, I do know what you mean, my 911 was similar and it was a pain but this car will only really be used for fun drives out. We did talk about very low entry ones but as I have carbon Kevlar doors I needed protection.
Yes, I do know what you mean, my 911 was similar and it was a pain but this car will only really be used for fun drives out. We did talk about very low entry ones but as I have carbon Kevlar doors I needed protection.
Fair enough but I'd still bin them off in favour of a single bar, the other thing I'd change is I'd want the A pillar bars much closer in, not sure if there's a reason why they're so far away?
Looks miles out to me. Was thinking it could have done with another bend to get it closer to the pillar. Mine are way closer and still cause a blind spot.
Oh and Toby. I don't care who welded those damper bodies. The oil will have boiled inside, it might not have damaged the internals but there's no way it won't have affected the oil viscosity. There's no way you can weld and and add hundreds of degrees to a local area without it transferring to the oil.
Oh and Toby. I don't care who welded those damper bodies. The oil will have boiled inside, it might not have damaged the internals but there's no way it won't have affected the oil viscosity. There's no way you can weld and and add hundreds of degrees to a local area without it transferring to the oil.
I'd bet that they are just bodies, not built units Jon.
Does oil change much after that much heat has been added to it?
yes mate it does. The oil used has a specific heat range. It's not as hardy as engine oil mate, it's more a hydraulic oil. Overheating of dampers causes their performance to fail dramatically. We see it on the dyno. If the damper has a lot of damping resistance they generate heat quite quickly. Once the oil reaches its temperature limit the damping resistance drops off quickly. They do recover to an extent but too many heat cycles and the oil is goosed.
Fair enough but I'd still bin them off in favour of a single bar, the other thing I'd change is I'd want the A pillar bars much closer in, not sure if there's a reason why they're so far away?
i know what your saying but as I understand it there are two different ways of fitting a cage , one very tight to the body and weld to the internal panel but only along certain ares to allow the car to flex , or still get it close and add your strengthening cussets to join it to the shell . Mine it so tight to the shell it's been stitch welded to the internal body panels but mine never had cussets which I really like so I added them but they are more for show than anything else . I can't see it being a problem it's just down to personal choice really , car looks good thou so keep up the good work .
Thanks for that Paul, I don’t know a great deal about cages, but I did specify right at the start that I wanted punched / holes gussets (sounds like a muppet room comment)
i know my heigo cage used to creak a bit against the trim of the car.
I am having an Alcantara headlining trimmed but don’t know if that will go far down the pillars. Rest of car is likely to be just paint.
Before I had a 6 degree beam and 20 year old shock absorbers that were "hot rod" design, they had lost their adjustability for damping and had the wrong spring rates. We also found that the beam was sitting very slightly to one side and a little out of alignment causing some driveline shunt (think it’s called that) - rear steer.
the front compression struts mounts were in the wrong place and the turrets were so weak Jonfoc was surprised the (too stiff) fronts had not punched up through the strut tops.
the front 4wd beam was also poorly located and needed repositioning. We also had an Ackermann issue that we may be able to solve with shorter steer arms.
the new setup will have the modified Wrc rear cradle on Black art design coilovers and Wrc top mounts, the big improvements should be huge weight loss due to T45 cradle and connecting rods, properly located rear strut towers with top mounts as opposed to little boxes that did not allow any adjustment as the springs used to rub the shell. Correctly specced springs, all chamber adjustable etc. The shell had very little strength with just a bolt in cage that had been chopped about with no rigidity for the rear suspension. Every time I softened the springs the car got better but was over damped on the front as designed for 300lb springs and valves accordingly for escos which is WAY heavier. The rear probably had very little damping .
the cage now obviously ties front to back, properly located tubular t45 front cradle at the right height with correct location of comp struts and black art design dampers same as on the rear. The track will all be straight and the track also widened to the max the shell will allow.
the bladed roll bars are having modified arms to locate better too.
i have written this in lay person terms so please excuse errors in terminology and understanding.
It sounds like it will be a lot better. I bet you can't wait to try it out!
Itching to get back in to it. I always wanted the Stroker engine and this one is a lovely spec and cannot wait to see what it will do. the new Turbo will do around 630bhp and over 500 ftlb torque so that in something around or under 1000kg is going to be like a rocket ship
I have a feeling that it will spend a bit of time at the drag strip and track days so a big front diff and sequential maybe options for 2019 / 2020
At least you’ll be protected with the cage ,let’s face it the metal on them frenchys is like fag paper,also with that weight and power you should pip in the 9s at drag strip deffo very low 10s
You are right. 630bhp in a French 205 shell needs a lot more strength. It should be quick on the strip depending on how brutal I launch it. As long as I can get under 8 secs to 100 I am happy and Mark Shead thinks something with a 6 or 7 is doable.
Was around 500 atw weighed 1080 with me in it ,tremec 5 speed box with Quaife internals
No fancy block just .25 oversize 200 block,and an old gt35r that looked like the mice had chewed the blades,accident with a stone getting by the meshing straight in the turbo,but went ok as you can see in vids��
My cam belt snapped on my Audi TT (it was supposedly changed 25,000 miles ago) so I have today removed most of the head and just waiting for a tool for the head bolts, will investigate and then rebuild, I am expecting the exhaust valves to have been dinked. Just cannot decide if I should uprate the Rods now as the rest of the bam Engine is good for 500 bhp as long as you do the rods...I have no intention of building a big power engine but a bullet proof 300 bhp might be nice. It is supposed to be 280 bhp now but I think it is closer to 240...that’s what the performance meter on the com port says.
My cam belt snapped on my Audi TT (it was supposedly changed 25,000 miles ago) so I have today removed most of the head and just waiting for a tool for the head bolts, will investigate and then rebuild, I am expecting the exhaust valves to have been dinked. Just cannot decide if I should uprate the Rods now as the rest of the bam Engine is good for 500 bhp as long as you do the rods...I have no intention of building a big power engine but a bullet proof 300 bhp might be nice. It is supposed to be 280 bhp now but I think it is closer to 240...that’s what the performance meter on the com port says.
Deffo worth putting in IES rods rifle drilled, especially at around £400, whilst its apart id also check the oil pick up pipe in sump (bad for clogging with shite) done a few of these
Deffo worth putting in IES rods rifle drilled, especially at around £400, whilst its apart id also check the oil pick up pipe in sump (bad for clogging with shite) done a few of these
Thanks for this, does the rifle drilling help move the oil or something?
Been having a few suspension issues with active anti roll on the Rangie, just got a zero miles evoque and really impressed with the way it goes with 8 speed box, quick shifting and the way you can chuck it around like a gti. This has the sva sport seats etc and I really like it. I know a lot of people hate the image but it is a great all rounder.
