Hi hi.

Right the bottom of both my doors on my mark 3 m
Mondeo have gone all rusty.

So I thought I would have a go at doing one door myself.

I masked up a bit of the door cause I didn't wanna get overspray all over. I then had a bit of a line where the primer was so I used 800 and 1200 wet and dry paper.

Then I used a genuine ford spray can and this is what it's like now.


What do you think I've done wrong and could I redo the door so it looks better??

May thanks.

 

its hard to see whats happening here. ive always masked things up higher than the bit I want sprayed and feather out the light mist coats so there isn't a clear line at the masking then buffed it up with a rubbing compound to blend old to new.

 

To me the top coat doesnt look the right colour, seems lighter than the original. How many coats did you spray on?
You can buy from a paint spraying suppliers things which look like a big pipe cleaner made of foam which you spray onto where the 2 parts meet and it feathers the paint in avoiding a hard line which you get with masking tape. There may be a video of them in use on youtube.

 

Soft edge masking tape will be needed and as above...feather out and then flat and polish it back to lose the line.

OR rub it down now so it is flat and give it to a sprayer as the prep is done, shouldnt cost much now.

 

I was thinking the base coat is slightly different. I'm gutted cause I like my cars to look nice.

It's had a few coats too. With it been a genuine for spray can I thought it might of been a good match.

 

Better off painting up to the door mouldings if you've got them on yours?
Try not basecoating right to the edge of the mouldings too
You'll struggle to get it right with aerosols tbh...
And the doors from the inside will want treating or it'll be back in no time

 

if you take the time you can get a decent finish/match using the genuine main dealer cans, lots of thin light mist coats rather than a couple of heavy coats though.

 

Why I leave those sort of jobs for the paint shop .

 

A vehicle breaker local will sell me a pair of rear doors for 60 quid. There the same colour too. Both my rear doors are rusty at the bottom.

 

I don't wanna fook about sanding the door down again and then find the paints to wrong shade.

 

Mat I've always wanted to paint cars properly. Not as a full time job though.

 

Glenn buy new doors, it's a manufacturing fault with the door, mastic and drip guard issue iirc, they sorted the issue out on later cars, if the doors on the breaker are nice and clean you should be fine, my 53 plate mk3 had rusty rear doors, found a later model with good condition doors and just replaced them

 

The Mondeo that has the doors on I want is a 05 reg.

 

I'd have a re-think mate tbh

 

I'd get the paint mixed by a local paint supplier... Nobody would spray that little area in
It just won't happen

 

I think you are safe at 05, to be fair if they are clean now after 12 years you should be golden.

The doors are rusting from the inside out so it'll stain in no time, only way to cure it is to cut it out, and obviously fitting new s/h doors is a much better option, my car was radiant red so colour match wasn't really an issue, but you may notice the difference with yours, you may find a good match, it's a chance I'd rather take to be honest.

Rsmat:

 

No brainer Glenn, get the pair of doors fitted and no more rust and you dont have to paint them. I bought a front door for my Sons Subaru Impreza WRX which he had damaged and the metallic silver paint was a perfect match.

 

There are loads of how to's on youtube about spraying with aerosols.

With paint, more so than the can itself, preparation is everything !

 

I went to see them doors today. The bottoms were rust free but the drivers rear had deep fresh scratches on it.

Nowt is ever simple for me.

 

Thats a pity Glenn but there must be quite a few Mondeos in breakers that would have a pair in good nick with the same paint colour as yours?

 

You'll get a decent pair mate they soon come up ..plenty being broken .

 

I know i will just keep a look out for some.

 

where did you get the spray you used? was it main dealer cans? iirc Mercedes were about Ł9 for a 200ml can but the colour matched perfectly on my silver car and the can nozzles were decent quality giving an even fine spray. I did my back bumper and its as good as it was before with no difference in shading. much time was spent on prepping though and I think using the wrong colour of primer can alter the finish shade a little.

 

they seem to vary widely on ebay from Ł25 to Ł150 for 2005 silver Mondeo doors. I don't know which yours are.

 

Yeh the paint is genuine ford. Im in 2 minds to sand it down and have another go. I wondering if it needs a few coats.

My colour is octane blue. As per ususal the doors in the colour i have seen are down south.

I have even thought about getting these doors i went to see and ring chips away and see if they could repair the scratches.

 

Wrong shade can tell a mile off plus u need paint to a edge not to masking tape u will
Always see it regardless of shade

 

Until it's fully painted and lacquered you've no way of telling how good the match is.

When I did my 1/4 panel ( main body with proper paint and filler cap with mixed aerosol ) the match looked fucking awful until I had lacquered it all. And then it was great.

I actually tried using an aerosol lacquer at first and again...bloody awful. But proper 2k lacquer over it and I was amazed at the difference

 

Cheers Matey. I might get a tin mixed up to the same colour.

 

Its a good job you are not trying to get a colour match for your Diamond White Saff Glenn as I was amazed at how many different shades there are!
You can get the paint custom made in an aerosol which may be the best way to get a perfect match. I have done some panel repairs on my Sons Subaru Impreza which is metallic silver and thats what I did and was very pleased with the results.


Rear bumper and a small area above it.



Front bumper complete

 

I think there are 12 shades of diamond white.

Your paint job looks well. I think i might jist get a spray can mixed up from off the paint code then hopefully it will match lol.

 

Is there door mouldings half way up the door Glenn?
Mask them out, if the mouldings don't go edge to edge on the door roll the tape on the bits that don't so you don't have a tape edge
Scotch the bottom of the door off, make sure your repair area is flat and primed ( just that area )
Flick the colour in thin coats allowing to dry properly between coats, use a heat gun if needs be...
Once your happy the primed area is covered flick the colour up the door trying not to go right up to the tape
Once happy and dry enough clearcoat the bottom of the door
You may have to polish edges where the mouldings don't go to the edge of the doors, bar that should be pretty straight forward

Get on YouTube and watch some videos

 

Sounds a bit hard that matey lol. I dont think im that confident to do the bottom half of the door.

 

It's the only way you'll do it and it look right
Otherwise you may aswell have left it tbh

 

I just thought i could of blended the part in that i have done.

 

Never gonna happen, repair area needs to be bigger

 

To be fair you're never going to get a perfect match as application can change the colour. Listen to slammedorion as that's the way to do it. Colour up the smallest area you need and fade it out. Lacquer the bottom of the door and put the blend in the lacquer. Try and keep as small as possible to make the blend easier.

You can buy aerosol fade out thinners which if you flick a couple of thin coats over the end of the blend it should make polishing easier.

 

Looks like im looking for a door then. Why doesnt non of you lot live closer to me lol.

 

It isnt easy to get a good result without a lot of prep and you also have to be confident with using aerosols. I have done quite a lot of spraying with aerosols and can get good results but if I was you go back to your plan of getting some good nick doors from a breaker, there must be some out there.

 

im a painter by trade...can try and talk you though it if you still want to have a go

looks like you needed to cover a bigger area , the basecoat needs to fade away so you cant see the edge , the clearcoat over a bigger area to go beyond the basecoat edge