teamSPB Corsa build - 2 AA Arsenal 10's, 4th order bandpass, AudioSystems front end
#41
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Amps are here....
First up we have the B2 Audio Quattro...
Specs:
Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 110 + 2 x 225 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 2 x 165 + 2 x 310 watts
Power @ 4 Ohm bridged: 1 x 330 + 1 x 620 watts
Zero gauge inputs...and the white colour is a damn sight better in real life compared to the pics! It really does grow on you!
As you can see, the power outputs are PERFECT for going active...so this is the route I shall be taking with this.
The bass amp is a B2 Audio Mono MkII
Specs:
Power @ 4 Ohm: 1 x 700 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 1 x 1300 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm: 1 x 2200 watts
And both of them together
Looking forward to having a play with them next week!
teamSPB
First up we have the B2 Audio Quattro...
Specs:
Power @ 4 Ohm: 2 x 110 + 2 x 225 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 2 x 165 + 2 x 310 watts
Power @ 4 Ohm bridged: 1 x 330 + 1 x 620 watts
Zero gauge inputs...and the white colour is a damn sight better in real life compared to the pics! It really does grow on you!
As you can see, the power outputs are PERFECT for going active...so this is the route I shall be taking with this.
The bass amp is a B2 Audio Mono MkII
Specs:
Power @ 4 Ohm: 1 x 700 watts
Power @ 2 Ohm: 1 x 1300 watts
Power @ 1 Ohm: 1 x 2200 watts
And both of them together
Looking forward to having a play with them next week!
teamSPB
#51
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Thread Starter
Ill get some vids up shortly...
I just realised I forgot to put up the pictures of the detail!
Engine was given a full wash using Megs super degreaser, megs APC, and then treated with R303
Vehicle was clayed down using Megs clay bar
Vehicle was polished with Zaino Z5
Vehicle was then protected with G techniq C1
I just realised I forgot to put up the pictures of the detail!
Engine was given a full wash using Megs super degreaser, megs APC, and then treated with R303
Vehicle was clayed down using Megs clay bar
Vehicle was polished with Zaino Z5
Vehicle was then protected with G techniq C1
#55
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Thread Starter
Glenn, yeah the polishes I use are absolutely spot on...I have a range of products I swear by....
Duragloss 901 shampoo
G-techniq P1 polish
Zaino Z5 Pro polish
Megs 205 paint correction
Megs 83 paint correction
Megs 105 paint correction
G-techniq C1 sealant
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet wax
AG HD wax
Zaino Z2 PRO
Bilberry Wheel cleaner
Megs APC (soon to be replaced with Tesco Daisy!)
Megs Super degreaser
R303 rubber/plastic conditioner
AG Glass polish
Megs Glass cleaner
Permanon Glass cleaner
Permanon Brilliant wash
Permanon air craft shine
AG tyre shine
G-techniq C5 wheel sealant
PB Wheel sealant
AG Engine/machine degreaser
FinishKare 425 detailer
Im sure I have left loads out LOL!
Duragloss 901 shampoo
G-techniq P1 polish
Zaino Z5 Pro polish
Megs 205 paint correction
Megs 83 paint correction
Megs 105 paint correction
G-techniq C1 sealant
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet wax
AG HD wax
Zaino Z2 PRO
Bilberry Wheel cleaner
Megs APC (soon to be replaced with Tesco Daisy!)
Megs Super degreaser
R303 rubber/plastic conditioner
AG Glass polish
Megs Glass cleaner
Permanon Glass cleaner
Permanon Brilliant wash
Permanon air craft shine
AG tyre shine
G-techniq C5 wheel sealant
PB Wheel sealant
AG Engine/machine degreaser
FinishKare 425 detailer
Im sure I have left loads out LOL!
#56
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Glenn, yeah the polishes I use are absolutely spot on...I have a range of products I swear by....
Duragloss 901 shampoo
G-techniq P1 polish
Zaino Z5 Pro polish
Megs 205 paint correction
Megs 83 paint correction
Megs 105 paint correction
G-techniq C1 sealant
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet wax
AG HD wax
Zaino Z2 PRO
Bilberry Wheel cleaner
Megs APC (soon to be replaced with Tesco Daisy!)
Megs Super degreaser
R303 rubber/plastic conditioner
AG Glass polish
Megs Glass cleaner
Permanon Glass cleaner
Permanon Brilliant wash
Permanon air craft shine
AG tyre shine
G-techniq C5 wheel sealant
PB Wheel sealant
AG Engine/machine degreaser
FinishKare 425 detailer
Im sure I have left loads out LOL!
Duragloss 901 shampoo
G-techniq P1 polish
Zaino Z5 Pro polish
Megs 205 paint correction
Megs 83 paint correction
Megs 105 paint correction
G-techniq C1 sealant
Dodo Juice Blue Velvet wax
AG HD wax
Zaino Z2 PRO
Bilberry Wheel cleaner
Megs APC (soon to be replaced with Tesco Daisy!)
Megs Super degreaser
R303 rubber/plastic conditioner
AG Glass polish
Megs Glass cleaner
Permanon Glass cleaner
Permanon Brilliant wash
Permanon air craft shine
AG tyre shine
G-techniq C5 wheel sealant
PB Wheel sealant
AG Engine/machine degreaser
FinishKare 425 detailer
Im sure I have left loads out LOL!
#58
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Thread Starter
#59
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Thread Starter
Time for a bit of a change...some new rims were on order of the day!
6's and 8's for front and back...should be using 165/40 on the front and 195/40 on the rears
teamSPB
6's and 8's for front and back...should be using 165/40 on the front and 195/40 on the rears
teamSPB
#60
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Thread Starter
Offering the rims up after being highly polished by Rainbow Polishing in Birmingham!
Insides needed painting as they were acid dipped to strip the original paint/powder coat off
Masked up
And painted black...was thinking of doing it a lairy color but decided against it
Fitted
teamSPB
Insides needed painting as they were acid dipped to strip the original paint/powder coat off
Masked up
And painted black...was thinking of doing it a lairy color but decided against it
Fitted
teamSPB
#64
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
After a quick wash
I took the car for a drive the other day and wasnt overly happy with the lights....although they were 100watt Ring Sportz Blue bulbs, they just didnt light up the road like they do in my Focus...I removed the headlight and saw that one of the bulbs was not sitting right and was the culprit of the poor light! But by then, I had ordered a set of HID's so thought I would try them out...which was quite lucky as one of the bulbs blew 3-4 days after sorting it lol!
After reading MANY stories about Corsa's suffering from dodgy HID's after a while, and realising that most people are conned into buying 'CANBUS' HID kits, the solution many people have is simple, buy a HID relay kit! This seems to solves all problems related to HID's flickering, not turning on etc etc...so with this in mind, I ordered a HID relay kit off ebay (which STILL hasnt turned up yet!), and make my own kit based off the ebay kit!...As the kit hasnt turned up yet, I made my own kit.
So armed with 2 relays (instead of one like the kit), some 35amp cable (rather than what looks like 10amp cable), 17amp cable, loom tape, solder, crimp connectors etc etc I set about running the lengths of cable so everything was hidden bar the relays.
Kit
Car was stripped down
LED was swapped also
Old H7 connector
Mounting the Ballasts...again I have seen SOOOOOOO many installs where people do not secure the ballasts properly or leave them just cable tied to anything close by (nothing wrong with cable tying but I like everything to be as stealth as possible)...instead, I used Rivnuts to secure the ballasts to the chassis leg underneath the headlight...its discrete, out the way, and properly secure!
I took the car for a drive the other day and wasnt overly happy with the lights....although they were 100watt Ring Sportz Blue bulbs, they just didnt light up the road like they do in my Focus...I removed the headlight and saw that one of the bulbs was not sitting right and was the culprit of the poor light! But by then, I had ordered a set of HID's so thought I would try them out...which was quite lucky as one of the bulbs blew 3-4 days after sorting it lol!
After reading MANY stories about Corsa's suffering from dodgy HID's after a while, and realising that most people are conned into buying 'CANBUS' HID kits, the solution many people have is simple, buy a HID relay kit! This seems to solves all problems related to HID's flickering, not turning on etc etc...so with this in mind, I ordered a HID relay kit off ebay (which STILL hasnt turned up yet!), and make my own kit based off the ebay kit!...As the kit hasnt turned up yet, I made my own kit.
So armed with 2 relays (instead of one like the kit), some 35amp cable (rather than what looks like 10amp cable), 17amp cable, loom tape, solder, crimp connectors etc etc I set about running the lengths of cable so everything was hidden bar the relays.
Kit
Car was stripped down
LED was swapped also
Old H7 connector
Mounting the Ballasts...again I have seen SOOOOOOO many installs where people do not secure the ballasts properly or leave them just cable tied to anything close by (nothing wrong with cable tying but I like everything to be as stealth as possible)...instead, I used Rivnuts to secure the ballasts to the chassis leg underneath the headlight...its discrete, out the way, and properly secure!
#65
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Making the loom for the HIDs
Notice the grommit for the HID loom is also glued in place to prevent any water leaks/moisture build up
Cables marked up so I know what loom is doing what
It got late by the time I had finished so I didnt take any pics of the finished loom...but heres the end result with the lights
And the audio rebuild has begun!!!!
Notice the grommit for the HID loom is also glued in place to prevent any water leaks/moisture build up
Cables marked up so I know what loom is doing what
It got late by the time I had finished so I didnt take any pics of the finished loom...but heres the end result with the lights
And the audio rebuild has begun!!!!
#66
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
As shown previously, the install is now out and waiting for some new equipment to go in...this time it will be a bit more show friendly and sound output is not of major concern...this means a sealed setup, using powerful subs, and putting SQ and installation before anything else.
The system will undergo a COMPLETE rebuild....new subs, components, amps etc...more deadening will be added as well as some form of noise barrier etc to get some real world experience of noise barriers and what works etc
Heres whats been happening so far...
Box out
Test box in
The test subject in this instance is a B2 Audio REF12 in a 0.8cuft box. The recommendations from B2 are between 0.7-1.2cuft...we are right on the smallest side of things, however I was VERY suprised at the output attained by the single sub..but not only this, the quality behind the bass was suprisingly detailed and very fast. The impact the sub had was more than the pair of tens in here previously (which I guessed would happen especially with such low tuning on the 10s), and the REF12 played with authority down to around 35hz or there abouts! Not bad for a subwoofer who's manufacturers are SPL addicts! Things are looking up!
Time to start some work!
Around 8-10 layers later
Test arena!
The Kicker 3way crossover will be making way for something a bit better and upmarket!
The B2 Audio Quattro still powering the front end active which used to the the Gladen Audio XION165 components
The system will undergo a COMPLETE rebuild....new subs, components, amps etc...more deadening will be added as well as some form of noise barrier etc to get some real world experience of noise barriers and what works etc
Heres whats been happening so far...
Box out
Test box in
The test subject in this instance is a B2 Audio REF12 in a 0.8cuft box. The recommendations from B2 are between 0.7-1.2cuft...we are right on the smallest side of things, however I was VERY suprised at the output attained by the single sub..but not only this, the quality behind the bass was suprisingly detailed and very fast. The impact the sub had was more than the pair of tens in here previously (which I guessed would happen especially with such low tuning on the 10s), and the REF12 played with authority down to around 35hz or there abouts! Not bad for a subwoofer who's manufacturers are SPL addicts! Things are looking up!
Time to start some work!
Around 8-10 layers later
Test arena!
The Kicker 3way crossover will be making way for something a bit better and upmarket!
The B2 Audio Quattro still powering the front end active which used to the the Gladen Audio XION165 components
#68
Resident Wrestling Legend
iTrader: (3)
After a quick wash
I took the car for a drive the other day and wasnt overly happy with the lights....although they were 100watt Ring Sportz Blue bulbs, they just didnt light up the road like they do in my Focus...I removed the headlight and saw that one of the bulbs was not sitting right and was the culprit of the poor light! But by then, I had ordered a set of HID's so thought I would try them out...which was quite lucky as one of the bulbs blew 3-4 days after sorting it lol!
After reading MANY stories about Corsa's suffering from dodgy HID's after a while, and realising that most people are conned into buying 'CANBUS' HID kits, the solution many people have is simple, buy a HID relay kit! This seems to solves all problems related to HID's flickering, not turning on etc etc...so with this in mind, I ordered a HID relay kit off ebay (which STILL hasnt turned up yet!), and make my own kit based off the ebay kit!...As the kit hasnt turned up yet, I made my own kit.
So armed with 2 relays (instead of one like the kit), some 35amp cable (rather than what looks like 10amp cable), 17amp cable, loom tape, solder, crimp connectors etc etc I set about running the lengths of cable so everything was hidden bar the relays.
Kit
Car was stripped down
LED was swapped also
Old H7 connector
Mounting the Ballasts...again I have seen SOOOOOOO many installs where people do not secure the ballasts properly or leave them just cable tied to anything close by (nothing wrong with cable tying but I like everything to be as stealth as possible)...instead, I used Rivnuts to secure the ballasts to the chassis leg underneath the headlight...its discrete, out the way, and properly secure!
I took the car for a drive the other day and wasnt overly happy with the lights....although they were 100watt Ring Sportz Blue bulbs, they just didnt light up the road like they do in my Focus...I removed the headlight and saw that one of the bulbs was not sitting right and was the culprit of the poor light! But by then, I had ordered a set of HID's so thought I would try them out...which was quite lucky as one of the bulbs blew 3-4 days after sorting it lol!
After reading MANY stories about Corsa's suffering from dodgy HID's after a while, and realising that most people are conned into buying 'CANBUS' HID kits, the solution many people have is simple, buy a HID relay kit! This seems to solves all problems related to HID's flickering, not turning on etc etc...so with this in mind, I ordered a HID relay kit off ebay (which STILL hasnt turned up yet!), and make my own kit based off the ebay kit!...As the kit hasnt turned up yet, I made my own kit.
So armed with 2 relays (instead of one like the kit), some 35amp cable (rather than what looks like 10amp cable), 17amp cable, loom tape, solder, crimp connectors etc etc I set about running the lengths of cable so everything was hidden bar the relays.
Kit
Car was stripped down
LED was swapped also
Old H7 connector
Mounting the Ballasts...again I have seen SOOOOOOO many installs where people do not secure the ballasts properly or leave them just cable tied to anything close by (nothing wrong with cable tying but I like everything to be as stealth as possible)...instead, I used Rivnuts to secure the ballasts to the chassis leg underneath the headlight...its discrete, out the way, and properly secure!
#69
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
No pal, I didn't, I will at some point thought as I want slightly thicker adapters on the front...they are awesomely made though! Ill be getting my local engineering guy to make me some more but another 5-10mm thicker for the front
#70
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
#71
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Thread Starter
Some more done on the car...
Box trimmed down and test fitted, although in this pic its not properly in the boot yet (lifted up on the right hand side)
At this point, we have no idea what to put in the boot of the car...all I know is I am SERIOUSLY impressed with the B2 REF12! The sound is very similar to the CDT QES1220 I tested as a benchmark years ago...its just as tight, but lacks a little on the lows in comparison to the CDT, however, the CDT was in the optimal box (around 0.7 or 0.8cuft). The REF12 is currently in a 0.8cuft box and the sub itself is MASSIVE...uses a 6spoke basket (same as the Ascendant Audio SMD but a 12" version), and a big motor! What I like about the sub is it has nice soft spiders with stitched tinsel leads, which helps with the responsiveness of the sub as it is very quick. Another requirement I have always had with my musical styles is the ability to reproduce LOW frequencies smoothly and effortlessly...so naturally, I have always preferred ported boxes. With this sub, one thing that really attracted me to it was the XMAX figure of 20mm...now with 40mm of movement, in a proper sized box, the lows should be pretty awesome for sealed standards!
Measuring the fibreglass box of the spare wheel well, we have 1.69cuft to play with....perfect! I now know I can go for any sort of install I like...whether it be 1 12, a pair of 10's, or even 2 12s! Now, with my background being heavily SPL/Street bass orientated, im thinking a pair of 12's will be in order!
Heres the B2 REF12 showing its backside off...
Front doors being stripped
Out with the old AudioSystems XION165s! AWESOME components! Hand on heart, these are some of the best components I have ever heard! Will definitely miss them....but hey...onwards and upwards!!
Box trimmed down and test fitted, although in this pic its not properly in the boot yet (lifted up on the right hand side)
At this point, we have no idea what to put in the boot of the car...all I know is I am SERIOUSLY impressed with the B2 REF12! The sound is very similar to the CDT QES1220 I tested as a benchmark years ago...its just as tight, but lacks a little on the lows in comparison to the CDT, however, the CDT was in the optimal box (around 0.7 or 0.8cuft). The REF12 is currently in a 0.8cuft box and the sub itself is MASSIVE...uses a 6spoke basket (same as the Ascendant Audio SMD but a 12" version), and a big motor! What I like about the sub is it has nice soft spiders with stitched tinsel leads, which helps with the responsiveness of the sub as it is very quick. Another requirement I have always had with my musical styles is the ability to reproduce LOW frequencies smoothly and effortlessly...so naturally, I have always preferred ported boxes. With this sub, one thing that really attracted me to it was the XMAX figure of 20mm...now with 40mm of movement, in a proper sized box, the lows should be pretty awesome for sealed standards!
Measuring the fibreglass box of the spare wheel well, we have 1.69cuft to play with....perfect! I now know I can go for any sort of install I like...whether it be 1 12, a pair of 10's, or even 2 12s! Now, with my background being heavily SPL/Street bass orientated, im thinking a pair of 12's will be in order!
Heres the B2 REF12 showing its backside off...
Front doors being stripped
Out with the old AudioSystems XION165s! AWESOME components! Hand on heart, these are some of the best components I have ever heard! Will definitely miss them....but hey...onwards and upwards!!
#73
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
We have decided to go for a pair of 12s in this build now, as I said in a previous post, we are bass heads after all!
This meant working with the initial wheel well volume of 1.7cuft, we had to raise the box by approx 2inches to get the volume to 2cuft...then we added some extra height to help position the subs etc...its easier to take away volume than add it at a later date!
More CSM added over the FG paste
Dont think we will work on it too much now as I got a few other cars to crack on with now...
This meant working with the initial wheel well volume of 1.7cuft, we had to raise the box by approx 2inches to get the volume to 2cuft...then we added some extra height to help position the subs etc...its easier to take away volume than add it at a later date!
More CSM added over the FG paste
Dont think we will work on it too much now as I got a few other cars to crack on with now...
#74
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#76
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Thread Starter
Right, thought I would update this as its been a while...a few more bits have been decided upon...
Pioneer P80RS headunit with full steering wheel control functionality
Gladen Audio SQL 165 components (not sure if I will be running these active or passive yet)
2 B2 Audio REF12 12" subs
Mosconi AS300.2 amplifier
The rest is still to be decided upon yet!
The box has made progress as well...baffle is 1" thick..it is SOLID!!!
The B2 REF12 in more detail
Threaded inserts
Trial fit
teamSPB
Pioneer P80RS headunit with full steering wheel control functionality
Gladen Audio SQL 165 components (not sure if I will be running these active or passive yet)
2 B2 Audio REF12 12" subs
Mosconi AS300.2 amplifier
The rest is still to be decided upon yet!
The box has made progress as well...baffle is 1" thick..it is SOLID!!!
The B2 REF12 in more detail
Threaded inserts
Trial fit
teamSPB
#80
PassionFord Post Troll
Thread Starter
Sub box will be lined with Sound Absorber
working on the front doors
Looms all taped up
All panels have been lined with Cloud 9 and sound absorber
Roof being deadened with Silent Coat 2mm and then Cloud 9
working on the front doors
Looms all taped up
All panels have been lined with Cloud 9 and sound absorber
Roof being deadened with Silent Coat 2mm and then Cloud 9