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M-Tech Automotive's JWRC Fiesta 4x4 600+ BHP Build

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Old 25-08-2011 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Chip
Dont know how I missed this thread.

Cool as fuck

I think there will be quite a demand for the cams if you do manage to get a decent profile together, as there isnt a lot on the market currently for the B204.
Chip,

we are designing alot opf new trick stuff for the 204. Billet sump with mains cradle is one other thing on the list...

And by all means pop down at some point to have a nose! Tea and biscuits will be present
Old 25-08-2011 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by XRT_si
Are you doing the cage yourself Matt?
Si,

Its a custom cages cage, but we are redesigning the rear end for the RWD setup.

Cheers
Old 25-08-2011 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Tech Automotive
Chip,

we are designing alot opf new trick stuff for the 204. Billet sump with mains cradle is one other thing on the list...

And by all means pop down at some point to have a nose! Tea and biscuits will be present
TBH the engines are so strong im not sure you will find many people pushing them hard enough to need a girdle.

Got some time off in a couple of weeks so will probably pop up then and have a nose, need to finnish off the ignition map on your rollers for my corsa too on the new 285 cams, so thats a good excuse for a visit anyway
Old 25-08-2011 | 11:52 AM
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Chip,

More than welcome, and we both know theres crazier folk than us out there after horsepower!

On yours, did you delete the balance shafts or retain then?
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Tech Automotive
Chip,

More than welcome, and we both know theres crazier folk than us out there after horsepower!

On yours, did you delete the balance shafts or retain then?
On the current engine I have retained them, but when I build the "proper" engine later on, Im going to delete them.

The engine in mine at the moment is TOTALLY stock other than:
manifolds
turbo
uprated single valve springs (the volvo ones)


My current vague plan for building the proper engine are:
Hotter cams
Delete the balance shafts
Use a 2.3 crank, with 2.0 rods, and custom oversize pistons, to give a 2.4 litre capacity but without totally destroying the rod ratio (ie it will still rev)

Need to measure up though on the piston front to see if its going to be possible to get the CR low enough when using the longer rod, as obviously that will mean I need to move the gudgeon pin up further in the piston which in turn has implications for the potential for dish to keep the CR down.


Have you changed the valve springs in yours yet? I was getting valve bounce on the standard ones at about 7400rpm, the volvo ones are supposed to give about another 500rpm or so before thats an issue, so hopefully i'll be ok at the 7700 limiter I have in mind.
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:06 PM
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Chip,

Sounds an interesting plan.

Our engine is stripped. Thinking of redesigning the setas and running double springs, but thats down to our engine builder we are working with.

I'll keep you posted as to the route we go.

Which turbo were you running and what sort of lag did you expereince (also what boost)

Cheers
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:13 PM
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I am running the GT35R that you last saw when it was on my LET engine when it was on the rollers.

I would say that its spooling marginally quicker now than it was on the LET engine (presumably due to the very mild cams in the B204) but it is still fairly laggy as its a big turbo.

The most boost I have run so far is 2.1 bar, the cams are feeling to me like they are restricting me at high rpm, so I was using boost to just force the air in anyway, not really ideal though, hotter cams are definately the better option im sure!

Ultimately double springs and solid lifters have to be the way to go I would have thought for high rpm like on any engine, but im trying to do this engine on a budget not just throw endless cash at it like the last one with its steel crank and steel rods and solid lifter head etc
So for now Im quite interested in seeing how far the standard engine will go with only the most basic of modifications (the volvo springs are only 85 quid a set new from the main dealer so are a very cheap way of buying a few hundred more rpm)
Then the next step is just the basic upgrades I mentioned, and see how that works.
Im hoping the extra capacity will spool the turbo sooner so I wont need to use lots of revs, so can get by on the standard lifters and uprated single springs im running now.

Last edited by Chip; 25-08-2011 at 12:15 PM.
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:21 PM
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Hmm yes I suppose if you can sppol earlier you lenghten your power band without having to add revs, so deff a good way to go.

We are working with Kent Cams to design a profile, so looking forward to seeing what we can do in that department...
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Tech Automotive
Hmm yes I suppose if you can sppol earlier you lenghten your power band without having to add revs, so deff a good way to go.
Exactly, I had from 5Krpm-8.5Krpm on the last engine where the engine itself and the turbo etc worked really well and that was just about wide enough to make having the right gear on track possible most of the time but certainly not ideal still.

my ratios are
1: 3.58
2: 2.02
3: 1.35
4: 0.98
5: 0.81

So going from 2nd to third causes a drop in revs equal to dividing by 1.5, ie 8500rpm becomes about 5700rpm, and 1st causes a drop of 1.77 so 8500rpm becomes about 4800rpm, enough to just about drop me out of the power band, and the moment you have to change gear a little before the limiter due to a corner, it gets even worse and you start dropping off even in the higher gears slightly.

If I can have 4K-7.7krpm on the proper B204, then that is actually slightly better than it was before in terms of the drop between gears not pushing me out of the power band.

ie 8.5/5 = 1.7
7.7/4 = 1.9

So I think once the 2.4 engine is in there, it should work really well with the current turbo


We are working with Kent Cams to design a profile, so looking forward to seeing what we can do in that department...
Excellent
Kent products are normally top quality IME so its a good company to be teaming up with.
Old 25-08-2011 | 12:59 PM
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Wicked project. Good luck with it.

You need to rethink gearbox plans completely in my opinion.

and I wouldn't use anything Quaife...
Old 25-08-2011 | 01:00 PM
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Front triangulations are now all finished, Simon has been a busy boy today!

Hoping to start the rear end alignment as well today, then its planning time for the rear suspension pickups...







Woop
Old 25-08-2011 | 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Porkie
Wicked project. Good luck with it.

You need to rethink gearbox plans completely in my opinion.

and I wouldn't use anything Quaife...
Porkie,

Any reccomendations?

The type 9 casing can be had in much stronger forms, although we were looking at the new 60g sequential box, but Quaife a no-go?

Cheers
Matt
Old 25-08-2011 | 01:15 PM
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Do a bit of research into the quaiffe stuff as im sure you will dig up some horrors, from what I have seen there products tend to be on the weak side but the prices are on the strong side if you know what I mean. I was going to use their reverse kit on a kit car I was going to build until I was warned off them.
Old 25-08-2011 | 01:16 PM
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Raj,

Yes been having a bit of read....

Ok ok, Supra Turbo Box?

:P
Old 25-08-2011 | 01:31 PM
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Ok.. team chat.. decided... 4 wheel drive, Skyline GTR box and front diff...
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:06 PM
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Skyline rwd box is another option if you dont want to mess around with needing a diff in the sump or clearance for the front prop to get past etc

Or if you want a really simple option, cossie t5, SBD sell an adaptor for a couple of hundred quid and then it bolts straight up.
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:23 PM
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Chip,

We see the front diff as a challenge and gladly welcome it, plus it will help with the cars handling and if we watn to go RWD we can always remvoe the prop.

Have already sussed an idea for the front diff, all part of our custom sump
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:25 PM
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Sounds good then

The skyline system allows you to vary the torque sent to the front wheels anyway mate, its a pretty basic PWM output to control it IIRC.

If you could get the V4 to look at front and rear wheel speeds and then output a mappable PWM value based on the difference you could probably do a crude but effective form of what the ATTESA does on the skyline in the first place

Last edited by Chip; 25-08-2011 at 02:28 PM.
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:31 PM
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Ah thats the R32 setup, is that true in the case of thr R33 box?
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:38 PM
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Yeah the only difference on the R33 system really is that it also controls the rear diff to allow it to alter left/right split, but you can still operate just the front/rear on its own if you fuck all that system off and just use PWM control directly on the transfer box.

Its a really cool system to retrofit, I looked into it quite a lot when I was thinking of using it for a project I was considering (Lexus v8 onto that running gear for my calibra)
Old 25-08-2011 | 02:42 PM
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PS, have just checked as wasnt positive I had remembered right about if all the R33 had that, and that upgrade with the left/right split was only on the vspec r33 as standard, and on all r34 gtr, on the r33 gtr non vspec is was an optional extra, so it depends on which car you get.
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:02 PM
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Chip.

Excellent, I can certainly make some electronic hardware and interface it to the V4 for torque delivery based on load, current acceleration, front adn rear speed, outputshaft relative speed and wheel slip. Will some interesting software but will give an interesting result I'm sure!
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:09 PM
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The way that the nissan system works (well the earlier simpler one) from what I gather is that it aims to keep the speed differential between front and rear axles at under 5% and thats pretty much its only target, seems to work very effectively just doing that, and that should be relatively easy to program.
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:33 PM
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ah ok,

on a side note, how do i change the threads ;'title' as per other project threads they seem to post updates?
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:44 PM
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The 60g is not suitable for that power, they do a bigger box but as porkie has said you take your chances on that one.

Tractive or Saenz for rwd sequential boxes personally, big money though !
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by M-Tech Automotive
ah ok,

on a side note, how do i change the threads ;'title' as per other project threads they seem to post updates?
I think if you go advanced when you edit the first post it should allow you to change it
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:47 PM
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If you go to the first post and click edit, then click "go advanced", you can change the title there.
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:47 PM
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Lol, snap!
Old 25-08-2011 | 03:54 PM
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Ah cheers chaps!
Old 26-08-2011 | 12:37 PM
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Just a little update..

Rear strut cage mounts going in...



Old 16-09-2011 | 11:48 AM
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Awesome build and love the gearbox combo.
Old 16-09-2011 | 02:08 PM
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gonna be a mega car keep up the good work
Old 17-09-2011 | 02:09 PM
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Top work there!
Old 18-09-2011 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by M-Tech Automotive




That looks really good!
Old 05-10-2011 | 10:33 AM
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Very interested in how you get the box to fit up to the block, got to do exactly the same thing but need to fit a S13 box to one. You will need to excuse me if I completely copy how you do it
Old 05-10-2011 | 10:43 AM
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[quote=M-Tech Automotive;5650725]Just a little update,

We have started creating the adapter plate to bolt the Skyline GTR Box onto the Saab Engine. Its made from 10mm Ally.

The trick was to remove the original engine face plate that the gearbox bolts to, and then replciate it from the new plate, incorporating stater motor bracket, and using countersunk allen bolts to secure the 'ears' to the Saab engine.

Then using the New spigot bearing, we can align the skyline box on the motor, mark the bell housing bolt locations, and carry out the same in reverse. All that is needed then is a custom clutch which we have sourced from Competition Clutches, whih has the input splines the same the as the skyline box, but a diametger and thickness to suit an uprataed Saab Cover plate, thus using the Saab Flyhweel and starter positions as OEM... easy!







[/quote

hi there would it not have been better and stronger to make it one piece and incorperate thet cover with seal in to it ,ie all one piece

mark
Old 05-10-2011 | 11:41 AM
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Cheers Matt, could very well be interested in that as it would save me a lot of hassle
Old 26-10-2011 | 06:43 PM
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Absolutely mental - i love it!!
Old 31-10-2011 | 12:10 PM
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Nice work, wish I could weld that neatly!
Old 01-11-2011 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Chip
Nice work, wish I could weld that neatly!
I'll second that, nice welding there



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