M-Tech Automotive's JWRC Fiesta 4x4 600+ BHP Build
#41
we are designing alot opf new trick stuff for the 204. Billet sump with mains cradle is one other thing on the list...
And by all means pop down at some point to have a nose! Tea and biscuits will be present
#43
Got some time off in a couple of weeks so will probably pop up then and have a nose, need to finnish off the ignition map on your rollers for my corsa too on the new 285 cams, so thats a good excuse for a visit anyway
#45
The engine in mine at the moment is TOTALLY stock other than:
manifolds
turbo
uprated single valve springs (the volvo ones)
My current vague plan for building the proper engine are:
Hotter cams
Delete the balance shafts
Use a 2.3 crank, with 2.0 rods, and custom oversize pistons, to give a 2.4 litre capacity but without totally destroying the rod ratio (ie it will still rev)
Need to measure up though on the piston front to see if its going to be possible to get the CR low enough when using the longer rod, as obviously that will mean I need to move the gudgeon pin up further in the piston which in turn has implications for the potential for dish to keep the CR down.
Have you changed the valve springs in yours yet? I was getting valve bounce on the standard ones at about 7400rpm, the volvo ones are supposed to give about another 500rpm or so before thats an issue, so hopefully i'll be ok at the 7700 limiter I have in mind.
#46
Chip,
Sounds an interesting plan.
Our engine is stripped. Thinking of redesigning the setas and running double springs, but thats down to our engine builder we are working with.
I'll keep you posted as to the route we go.
Which turbo were you running and what sort of lag did you expereince (also what boost)
Cheers
Sounds an interesting plan.
Our engine is stripped. Thinking of redesigning the setas and running double springs, but thats down to our engine builder we are working with.
I'll keep you posted as to the route we go.
Which turbo were you running and what sort of lag did you expereince (also what boost)
Cheers
#47
I am running the GT35R that you last saw when it was on my LET engine when it was on the rollers.
I would say that its spooling marginally quicker now than it was on the LET engine (presumably due to the very mild cams in the B204) but it is still fairly laggy as its a big turbo.
The most boost I have run so far is 2.1 bar, the cams are feeling to me like they are restricting me at high rpm, so I was using boost to just force the air in anyway, not really ideal though, hotter cams are definately the better option im sure!
Ultimately double springs and solid lifters have to be the way to go I would have thought for high rpm like on any engine, but im trying to do this engine on a budget not just throw endless cash at it like the last one with its steel crank and steel rods and solid lifter head etc
So for now Im quite interested in seeing how far the standard engine will go with only the most basic of modifications (the volvo springs are only 85 quid a set new from the main dealer so are a very cheap way of buying a few hundred more rpm)
Then the next step is just the basic upgrades I mentioned, and see how that works.
Im hoping the extra capacity will spool the turbo sooner so I wont need to use lots of revs, so can get by on the standard lifters and uprated single springs im running now.
I would say that its spooling marginally quicker now than it was on the LET engine (presumably due to the very mild cams in the B204) but it is still fairly laggy as its a big turbo.
The most boost I have run so far is 2.1 bar, the cams are feeling to me like they are restricting me at high rpm, so I was using boost to just force the air in anyway, not really ideal though, hotter cams are definately the better option im sure!
Ultimately double springs and solid lifters have to be the way to go I would have thought for high rpm like on any engine, but im trying to do this engine on a budget not just throw endless cash at it like the last one with its steel crank and steel rods and solid lifter head etc
So for now Im quite interested in seeing how far the standard engine will go with only the most basic of modifications (the volvo springs are only 85 quid a set new from the main dealer so are a very cheap way of buying a few hundred more rpm)
Then the next step is just the basic upgrades I mentioned, and see how that works.
Im hoping the extra capacity will spool the turbo sooner so I wont need to use lots of revs, so can get by on the standard lifters and uprated single springs im running now.
Last edited by Chip; 25-08-2011 at 12:15 PM.
#48
Hmm yes I suppose if you can sppol earlier you lenghten your power band without having to add revs, so deff a good way to go.
We are working with Kent Cams to design a profile, so looking forward to seeing what we can do in that department...
We are working with Kent Cams to design a profile, so looking forward to seeing what we can do in that department...
#49
my ratios are
1: 3.58
2: 2.02
3: 1.35
4: 0.98
5: 0.81
So going from 2nd to third causes a drop in revs equal to dividing by 1.5, ie 8500rpm becomes about 5700rpm, and 1st causes a drop of 1.77 so 8500rpm becomes about 4800rpm, enough to just about drop me out of the power band, and the moment you have to change gear a little before the limiter due to a corner, it gets even worse and you start dropping off even in the higher gears slightly.
If I can have 4K-7.7krpm on the proper B204, then that is actually slightly better than it was before in terms of the drop between gears not pushing me out of the power band.
ie 8.5/5 = 1.7
7.7/4 = 1.9
So I think once the 2.4 engine is in there, it should work really well with the current turbo
We are working with Kent Cams to design a profile, so looking forward to seeing what we can do in that department...
Kent products are normally top quality IME so its a good company to be teaming up with.
#52
Any reccomendations?
The type 9 casing can be had in much stronger forms, although we were looking at the new 60g sequential box, but Quaife a no-go?
Cheers
Matt
#53
Do a bit of research into the quaiffe stuff as im sure you will dig up some horrors, from what I have seen there products tend to be on the weak side but the prices are on the strong side if you know what I mean. I was going to use their reverse kit on a kit car I was going to build until I was warned off them.
#56
Skyline rwd box is another option if you dont want to mess around with needing a diff in the sump or clearance for the front prop to get past etc
Or if you want a really simple option, cossie t5, SBD sell an adaptor for a couple of hundred quid and then it bolts straight up.
Or if you want a really simple option, cossie t5, SBD sell an adaptor for a couple of hundred quid and then it bolts straight up.
#57
Chip,
We see the front diff as a challenge and gladly welcome it, plus it will help with the cars handling and if we watn to go RWD we can always remvoe the prop.
Have already sussed an idea for the front diff, all part of our custom sump
We see the front diff as a challenge and gladly welcome it, plus it will help with the cars handling and if we watn to go RWD we can always remvoe the prop.
Have already sussed an idea for the front diff, all part of our custom sump
#58
Sounds good then
The skyline system allows you to vary the torque sent to the front wheels anyway mate, its a pretty basic PWM output to control it IIRC.
If you could get the V4 to look at front and rear wheel speeds and then output a mappable PWM value based on the difference you could probably do a crude but effective form of what the ATTESA does on the skyline in the first place
The skyline system allows you to vary the torque sent to the front wheels anyway mate, its a pretty basic PWM output to control it IIRC.
If you could get the V4 to look at front and rear wheel speeds and then output a mappable PWM value based on the difference you could probably do a crude but effective form of what the ATTESA does on the skyline in the first place
Last edited by Chip; 25-08-2011 at 02:28 PM.
#60
Yeah the only difference on the R33 system really is that it also controls the rear diff to allow it to alter left/right split, but you can still operate just the front/rear on its own if you fuck all that system off and just use PWM control directly on the transfer box.
Its a really cool system to retrofit, I looked into it quite a lot when I was thinking of using it for a project I was considering (Lexus v8 onto that running gear for my calibra)
Its a really cool system to retrofit, I looked into it quite a lot when I was thinking of using it for a project I was considering (Lexus v8 onto that running gear for my calibra)
#61
PS, have just checked as wasnt positive I had remembered right about if all the R33 had that, and that upgrade with the left/right split was only on the vspec r33 as standard, and on all r34 gtr, on the r33 gtr non vspec is was an optional extra, so it depends on which car you get.
#62
Chip.
Excellent, I can certainly make some electronic hardware and interface it to the V4 for torque delivery based on load, current acceleration, front adn rear speed, outputshaft relative speed and wheel slip. Will some interesting software but will give an interesting result I'm sure!
Excellent, I can certainly make some electronic hardware and interface it to the V4 for torque delivery based on load, current acceleration, front adn rear speed, outputshaft relative speed and wheel slip. Will some interesting software but will give an interesting result I'm sure!
#63
The way that the nissan system works (well the earlier simpler one) from what I gather is that it aims to keep the speed differential between front and rear axles at under 5% and thats pretty much its only target, seems to work very effectively just doing that, and that should be relatively easy to program.
#65
The 60g is not suitable for that power, they do a bigger box but as porkie has said you take your chances on that one.
Tractive or Saenz for rwd sequential boxes personally, big money though !
Tractive or Saenz for rwd sequential boxes personally, big money though !
#66
#76
[quote=M-Tech Automotive;5650725]Just a little update,
We have started creating the adapter plate to bolt the Skyline GTR Box onto the Saab Engine. Its made from 10mm Ally.
The trick was to remove the original engine face plate that the gearbox bolts to, and then replciate it from the new plate, incorporating stater motor bracket, and using countersunk allen bolts to secure the 'ears' to the Saab engine.
Then using the New spigot bearing, we can align the skyline box on the motor, mark the bell housing bolt locations, and carry out the same in reverse. All that is needed then is a custom clutch which we have sourced from Competition Clutches, whih has the input splines the same the as the skyline box, but a diametger and thickness to suit an uprataed Saab Cover plate, thus using the Saab Flyhweel and starter positions as OEM... easy!
[/quote
hi there would it not have been better and stronger to make it one piece and incorperate thet cover with seal in to it ,ie all one piece
mark
We have started creating the adapter plate to bolt the Skyline GTR Box onto the Saab Engine. Its made from 10mm Ally.
The trick was to remove the original engine face plate that the gearbox bolts to, and then replciate it from the new plate, incorporating stater motor bracket, and using countersunk allen bolts to secure the 'ears' to the Saab engine.
Then using the New spigot bearing, we can align the skyline box on the motor, mark the bell housing bolt locations, and carry out the same in reverse. All that is needed then is a custom clutch which we have sourced from Competition Clutches, whih has the input splines the same the as the skyline box, but a diametger and thickness to suit an uprataed Saab Cover plate, thus using the Saab Flyhweel and starter positions as OEM... easy!
[/quote
hi there would it not have been better and stronger to make it one piece and incorperate thet cover with seal in to it ,ie all one piece
mark