Project FakeCos. We now have doors.
19-09-2011, 05:25 PM
#161
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
And finally shes ready for paint. Just waiting to hear back form the bodyshop as to when they want it. I still have a few tiny little jobs here and there but the shell itself and all closes are ready to go.
The troublesome fuel filler flap is smoothed in and finished
The even more troublesome sideskirt joins are finished
There are a few little sanding marks still in these, but the whole cars getting a good coat of high build at the body shop which will remove these, rather than waste my paint.
The bonnets had the stone chips removed, guidecoated and flatted
And the car as it stands.
The front bumper isn't finished but I'm toying with the idea of buying a replica bumper for now to get it on the road.
The troublesome fuel filler flap is smoothed in and finished
The even more troublesome sideskirt joins are finished
There are a few little sanding marks still in these, but the whole cars getting a good coat of high build at the body shop which will remove these, rather than waste my paint.
The bonnets had the stone chips removed, guidecoated and flatted
And the car as it stands.
The front bumper isn't finished but I'm toying with the idea of buying a replica bumper for now to get it on the road.
22-09-2011, 07:49 PM
#166
Advanced PassionFord User
looking awesome muz! the front bumper looks spot on! only thing ive thought is that will you be able to get hockey sticks and splitters that will fit or will you get fiberglass ones and extend them too?
ive hit a wall with my rep project, im begining to think i should scrap my shell and start again with my rs2000 and buy proper fiberglass wings from xsport
ive hit a wall with my rep project, im begining to think i should scrap my shell and start again with my rs2000 and buy proper fiberglass wings from xsport
23-09-2011, 09:19 AM
#167
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
The front bumpers not finished yet, still needs work. Im debating whether or not to buy a replica bumper for now. Hockey sticks fit fine, but a splitter will need extending about 3/4inch each side.
Why don't you cut the metal panels off your replica and weld them to the RS2000? I'd rather proper metal panels.
Why don't you cut the metal panels off your replica and weld them to the RS2000? I'd rather proper metal panels.
Last edited by muz; 23-09-2011 at 10:43 AM.
23-09-2011, 01:51 PM
#170
Advanced PassionFord User
The front bumpers not finished yet, still needs work. Im debating whether or not to buy a replica bumper for now. Hockey sticks fit fine, but a splitter will need extending about 3/4inch each side.
Why don't you cut the metal panels off your replica and weld them to the RS2000? I'd rather proper metal panels.
Why don't you cut the metal panels off your replica and weld them to the RS2000? I'd rather proper metal panels.
my replica looked the tits but it was built betweent 2000-2002 and i think its had its day, the kit was fitted well but not sealed so the orignal metal wing behind has gone rusty. My plan is now if i can get decent rear wings is to removed the standerd rs2000 arch completly and just rivit the new pannel on and keep the rivits exposed behind the doors and boot so they can be removed easily and just seal up the gaps. (obviously) treat all metal to some paint to keep it rust free.
getting fustrated with my project now to be honest haha
03-10-2011, 07:52 PM
#172
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Received the new front bumper today. I was using the genuine bumper as the replica ones are obviously fake with the wrong size lower grill so genuine mesh doesn't fit, no tow eye hole/cover, molded hockey sticks and lower splitter etc and basically completely the wrong size so nothing lines up. However it still needs loads of work, and I stumbled upon this....
The bloke makes them himself. They are dimensionally EXACTLY the same as a genuine bumper (and are molded form a genuine bumper) expect with the slightly longer sides due to the floor pan differences. They have removable hockey sticks and splitter, washer jet holes, genuine mesh fits and a tow eye cover! I put it next to my genuine bumper, and bar the side length, are exact. I'm also happy it has removable sticks and splitter as I like the bare bumper look but can put them on when I like.
and the best bit, which really bugs me with replica bumpers, the bottom of the bumper is level with the bottom of the side skirt like on a genuine car, not an inch too short.
The bloke makes them himself. They are dimensionally EXACTLY the same as a genuine bumper (and are molded form a genuine bumper) expect with the slightly longer sides due to the floor pan differences. They have removable hockey sticks and splitter, washer jet holes, genuine mesh fits and a tow eye cover! I put it next to my genuine bumper, and bar the side length, are exact. I'm also happy it has removable sticks and splitter as I like the bare bumper look but can put them on when I like.
and the best bit, which really bugs me with replica bumpers, the bottom of the bumper is level with the bottom of the side skirt like on a genuine car, not an inch too short.
in primer then soon eh?
07-10-2011, 08:52 AM
#178
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
PM'd. Cheers guys, yeah the painter said he will collect it in the next week or so then it should only take about 3 days to get it in paint then I have to rebuild it.
I did get a chance to repair the whaletail. It had cracked a bit at the bottom so needed splitting and rebuilding.
Also gave the front bumper a good snading with 80grit to get the molding marks out, then 320grit and high build.
I did get a chance to repair the whaletail. It had cracked a bit at the bottom so needed splitting and rebuilding.
Also gave the front bumper a good snading with 80grit to get the molding marks out, then 320grit and high build.
11-10-2011, 09:21 AM
#182
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
30-11-2011, 07:08 PM
#186
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Well it's booked in for paint and goes Monday 5th, so should be painted a week today. With that in mind I decided to go around the car and replace all the self tapping screws holding the kit on with rivets. I mean, come on! A rivet gun and rivets costs a tenner! Why bodge things, again.
etc
Then I thought, well so much of this car has been bodged, I wonder if they filled the rear 1/4 panel voids with expanding foam....erm, no! So I got the hole cutter and drilled a few 20mm holes and got busy with the foam cans. Its made with bits of real gorilla, so you know its good
I'm confident its gone into most, if not all the areas as I stuffed the holes with paper towel afterwards and put tape over the top to stop the foam pouring out and it pushed the paper and tape up!
With this done I decided to modify my AH Fabrications cold air box to fit the RS2000 as these engine sound awesome with an induction kit but suffer from heat sink badly.
Started off like this;
Its too long and fouls the servo/master cylinder. So I got creative with a grinder, Tigerseal and rivets and wha la'.
I've enlarged the intake hole on the side and it retains the original RS2000 induction pipe and RS2000 K@N filter.
I'll paint this matt black with a yellow lid when I get round to sprucing up the engine bay to match the matt black cam cover with yellow coil cover.
etc
Then I thought, well so much of this car has been bodged, I wonder if they filled the rear 1/4 panel voids with expanding foam....erm, no! So I got the hole cutter and drilled a few 20mm holes and got busy with the foam cans. Its made with bits of real gorilla, so you know its good
I'm confident its gone into most, if not all the areas as I stuffed the holes with paper towel afterwards and put tape over the top to stop the foam pouring out and it pushed the paper and tape up!
With this done I decided to modify my AH Fabrications cold air box to fit the RS2000 as these engine sound awesome with an induction kit but suffer from heat sink badly.
Started off like this;
Its too long and fouls the servo/master cylinder. So I got creative with a grinder, Tigerseal and rivets and wha la'.
I've enlarged the intake hole on the side and it retains the original RS2000 induction pipe and RS2000 K@N filter.
I'll paint this matt black with a yellow lid when I get round to sprucing up the engine bay to match the matt black cam cover with yellow coil cover.
30-11-2011, 08:17 PM
#188
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
05-12-2011, 05:09 PM
#189
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Well, the car went off for paint today. We didn't get there till 1 so only really had half a day on it, but made a good start.
The one panel needed slightly more work to make sure it's nice and flat. Really don't want to ripply panels.
Conor finishing the rear bumper and me finishing the bonnet
Bonnet and bumpers in high build and guide
and that's all we got round to today. The car is currently all masked up in the booth ready for paint first thing in the morning.
More to come tomorrow.
The one panel needed slightly more work to make sure it's nice and flat. Really don't want to ripply panels.
Conor finishing the rear bumper and me finishing the bonnet
Bonnet and bumpers in high build and guide
and that's all we got round to today. The car is currently all masked up in the booth ready for paint first thing in the morning.
More to come tomorrow.
05-12-2011, 06:17 PM
#192
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Frozen White. Got to love a White Cossie. It's also a good colour to discuise any little niggly bodywork issues which will expose it as a fraud! lol.
06-12-2011, 04:11 PM
#196
Wye Valley Hardcore
Thread Starter
Few more of today. Got the shell in primer first thing this morning.
The while that was hardening off me and Conor set to work on blocking off the high build and guide on the bumpers and bonnet. Starting with an initial 320 dry then finishing with an 800 wet.
Tomorrow we have to block off the shell in the morning and we'll have it in paint bar the doors and tailgate which will be in primer tomorrow then painted Friday. Cant wait.
The while that was hardening off me and Conor set to work on blocking off the high build and guide on the bumpers and bonnet. Starting with an initial 320 dry then finishing with an 800 wet.
Tomorrow we have to block off the shell in the morning and we'll have it in paint bar the doors and tailgate which will be in primer tomorrow then painted Friday. Cant wait.
