M K

iTrader: (9)

Excellent

Thanks for picking as no 1

M K

iTrader: (9)

Collected an R32 skyline box last night ready for my conversion

Secondhand but full working order I am told so time will tell







Time to start mocking up soon.

Caddyshack

Feel free to call me if you have any questions, I think you have my number but if not pm me.

The prop bolts are high tensile, I got mine from gt bitz as the ones that came with it were just B&Q specials. When you remove the gear selector cover (you can fill the oil through there too if needed) check the bush on the bottom of the gear selector, they are plastic and break, gt bitz supplied me a new one and it really improves the shift. I can see the shifter in the pic and can see the bush but cannot see how good it might be.

Don't get a quick shifter as they help kill the syncros.

Caddyshack

You may well know but the two plugs in the transfer box are neutral and reverse lights / sensors I think the front is reverse but can check if you are unsure.

ossie cossie

Will be keeping an eye on this conversion as well.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Hi Toby

Cheers for the info

I have the 4 genuine Nissan prop bolts as they came on my propshaft

With the sensors, il just cut plug off the neutral to tidy it up as its not needed and I will test the reverse switch and order and new 1 if it's not working,


The bush on the bottom of my selector is mint no cracks so that's a result, and as for topping fluid through the gear lever hole yes that's possible but only for the ATF fluid just so people are clear, NOT the main box fluid

Caddyshack

Sounds like you have it all under control, I bet a few have filled the transfer and forgotten the front bit before.

M K

iTrader: (9)

I have read a few that have filled through gear lever hole thinking it was main case and ruined the transfer box with shockproof oil lol

M K

iTrader: (9)

I ordered my 5 litres of redline heavy shockproof for the box and 2ltrs of redline racing atf for the transfer box ready for when it's all fitted ready to go

Daniel Evans

Full puma conversion kit for sale Ł300 engine gearbox full front suspension loom ecu air ox 2keys everything needed lots of service history old mots recent service small leak from rocker cover gasket email for details d-evans96@hotmail.co.uk

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Wots this ????????

Caddyshack

Big old thread hijack going on there....posted in wrong place.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Anybody know where I can get a new small slide bearing for the skyline box as seen here in the top of the bellhousing case

Caddyshack

Gt bitz or jdm performance

markk

iTrader: (2)

New from Nissan, quite expensive as I recall too (not mega, just for a bearing)
I replaced mine, nice cast outer on them too.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Cleaned the gearbox up today as i don't do greasy oily parts

Before




After





Then pulled the bellhousing





Just need to find the small slide bearing so will try Nissan as Markk suggested or gt bitz jdm like Toby suggested

Glenn_

iTrader: (1)

Thats a big ass gearbox.

Caddyshack

What chemicals did you use? I have a big steam cleaner but even on big heat I am not sure it would make it that clean.

Just seen the hyper degreaser in the back ground and the wire brushes.

M K

iTrader: (9)

That's it Toby

Hyper degreaser and wire brushes and a couple of hours scrubbing

ossie cossie

So how do you strip off the front of the gearbox? is it just as simple as taking off the front part inside the bellhousing then undoing the bolts around the center casing? I have a couple to strip down.

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

You can see wot I'm on about now with the size of the gears inside the gearbox they look like they should be inside a tractor .

fezzajsy

iTrader: (9)

How much are skyline boxes by the way if u dont mind me asking pliz

Caddyshack

Ł500 to Ł900 seems to be norm for R32 and R33. The getrag R34 6 speed is Ł3000 or more but can handle 1000bhp.

M K

iTrader: (9)

The skyline bellhousing is easy to remove to be fair there is an online manual so il copy a few pics and post them up later for you mate


Yeah much better and hopefully will last a bit longer than a Cossie box lol



I paid Ł350 for this box which I now think is actually an R33 box as it had the 2 vent holes on the bell housing?


That's about right but prices are gonna go up now America is allowed to import them

M K

iTrader: (9)

I now have the skyline dummy box fitted in the car and have cut the new hole for the transfer box, a bit more cutting still to be done for the front prop to clear but I'm quite happy with how it is so far, think the exhaust is going to be the hardest bit as its now going to have to run under the gearbox mount


Anyway few pics of yesterday's progress,

First problem was the case has moved ever so slightly when welded so I needed to chamfer the dowel holes you can see here the scratches around it where it wouldn't go on !



Chamfered and now fits fine





Bellhousing on and all bolts up nice and flat




Mid section of box bolted on and still not cutting of shell required














Transfer case hole cut out





Shows where prop doesn't quite clear the shell here so some slight cutting required





Transfer case bolted up





Gear lever hole needs ever so slightly enlarging , less than I thought it would need





Transfer case view in car




That was all the progress for the day

Thanks
Marc

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

Looking good mate

M K

iTrader: (9)

I'm tempted to look at alternative tube or bar for the front propshaft so I can have a smaller diameter and not have to cut more of the shell to clear

Is the skyline transfer prop hole sealed from the gearbox or can fluid leak through it like it does on the cosworth MT75?

COLEYST200

iTrader: (3)

The skyline gearbox will not leak it's oil out when the front prop is removed . The mt75 box will let it's oil out

Cossiesteve

wow you don't hang about buddy good job

Caddyshack

That's a nice way to offer it up in sections so you don't have to struggle with the heavy transfer part.

The skyline prop is pretty thin. What one have you got there? I do have a cut skyline front one if you need it?

M K

iTrader: (9)

The prop spline has an o ring seal so that must purely be to stop dirt ect getting in and wearing the splines and bearings



Then the outer shield helps that little bit more

M K

iTrader: (9)

Cheers mate

Want to get done soon as I can but the good thing for me is I am not using or cutting up any of my original parts so if I don't think the props or something will be ready in time for ford fest at Santa pod I can just put the MT75 back in for now


It makes life soooooo much easier being able to bolt it in in pieces as I can imagine the weight is ridiculous to lift up and fit especially as I do everything on my own

The smaller section of the skyline prop is 32mm x 3mm wall so I may ring a few places and see what they say about that being upto the job

Thanks
Marc

Caddyshack

I do all mine on my own too and it is hard in one piece. My best mate used to help with this sort of thing but he lives in Australia now so that is quite a commute to help me lift a gear box. My mate Al is quite close so I can call on him if I get stuck but so far I have done box in and out over 10 times. I should have made the tunnel much bigger and that would have been easier plus the clutch alignment is still causing issues....I am waiting for my new tool to arrive. I cannot work out what you chamfered and why but i wonder if mine might benefit from the same...I will study your pics more. I have cleaned up my gearbox now due to you making mine look bad lol...pics on my thread.

Caddyshack

I have been looking at the chamfers, do they just help it find the dowels of do they allow it to sit back in line by actually moving the bellhousing? The centre line of the input shaft needs to be dead centre or the clutch won't line up. The only reason I ask is that I wonder if mine might need a little wiggle room. My current alignment tool looks bang on so we will see when the tool arrives from AUS. I have still got to get the tilton to sit back far enough, the UK supplier says it should have 5 mm air cap from the clutch fingers when first fitted to allow the clutch to wear...that doesn't give a lot of room, are you using the same tilton as before and if so what series is it? I think mine is 1000 series.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Hi Toby


The chamfers of the dowell holes just help it locate slightly better as due to welding the box is now very slightly out of line! by chamfering the dowell hoLes its allowed me to line up then pull the box on to the dowels with the bolts, doesn't take much force, well not enough to stress anything but too much for the box to slip onto the dowels freely, this is the problem with welding such a large piece of alloy that already has the holes machined.


My alignment should be bang on if MK has his jig for welding them bang on,


I am also using a 1000 series csc from Tilton but have not done my measurements yet,


They are correct with the 5mm gap as the fingers move out towards the gearbox as the clutch wears.

Caddyshack

Thanks for clarifying, I will do the same on mine as it might just solve the issue I am having. On mine I can take out the clutch plate and it goes on with ease but if I align the clutch and torque down the plate I then struggle to get the input shaft through the clutch and in to the bronze bush. The clutch disc fits on the input splines easily if you take out the clutch and offer it on to the splines of the input shaft. I am using a generic multi alignment tool so I am hoping it will be easier when the tool from AUS turns up.

I measured the block face to fingers on the clutch cover and deducted that from the mounting plate for the centre push to bellhousing edge and that gave 34mm only which is not enough, I have gained 10mm by losing the mondeo adapter that tilton supplied. The tilton has a concentric locating ring on the back as you know, I am having my mounting plate machined down to accept that and keep it all concentric, that will gain another 2-3mm and I think I could lose 2 or 3 off the mount itself. I will see how that works. I wonder how much metal there is to spare on the actual tilton if the worst comes to the worst? They also do a slim line centre push but they are not keen to supply it as it was for a specific job.

M K

iTrader: (9)

I will get to measuring the clutch release set up next week I reckon so will let you know how I get on although my twin plate clutch is actually shallower than a standard single plate like yours Toby

M K

iTrader: (9)

A bit more cutting tonight

Realised that although I had it cut as a nice fit it would not allow room to back the box up over the clutch pack to drop it out the car so the hole needed to be enlarged, also enlarged round the gear lever hole and a small section that needed to clear front propshaft

Anyway a few more pics














Front prop sections cut up then I will machine an intermediate piece the same as Coley done on his Focos





Then used a bonnet prop to check the angles for the rear prop which all looks ok but see how much the bearing carrier needs lowering by when I get to cutting and trial fitting that



That's all I done tonight

Have ordered the sheet metal and bar stock to make new panels and prop pieces

Coming along well so far

Thanks
Marc

markk

iTrader: (2)

I had to space my triple plate clutch off the flywheel to fit all 3 plates onto the very shallow spline area, this still did no affect my concentric position, my clutch is around 60/70mm from fingers first clutch friction plate.

M K

iTrader: (9)

Bit more done on props today

Made an alloy spacer so the 2 prop section sat level inside each other so I can check I've cut enough of the shell to clear the prop

This will be made from steel when the metal arrives then welded up







Started to check alignment of the rear prop

How much misalignment can you get away with on this ???

I've got it pretty spot on but it's not perfect but surely the center bearing joint will take up and deal with any slight misalignment



Have cut up the Cossie and skyline prop sections which I will sleeve as Coley did on his focos to make a very short gearbox prop piece



To get alignment I had to drop the center bearing by approx 15mm using some plastic spacers I machined




That's another step closer

Thanks
Marc