At least with it being this time of year I've got time to fix it and now it's partially mapped get some test/running in miles on it before taking it back.

The dyno is at Emerald in Norfolk, it's handy having the ECU manufacturer with their own rolling road.

 

I thought I recognised that dyno cell from my years reading PPC magazine.
Does Dave Walker still work? He must be a decent age now.

 

Dave is still working!
He must be well into his 70's but still knows his stuff.

 

A few months of teething problems have drove me crazy...

Recon rack started to leak as it had been left unused for around 6 years, damn thing didn't want to come out with the engine in as it hit the sump so had to clearance the crossmember.





Got it rebuilt and then fitted it back on.

"Recon" 24 valve Granada alternator was not charging properly so had to change the voltage regulator, would have been much easier if the dopey bastard who fitted it put the long bolt in the other way round so it didn't have come out through the radiator! Managed to do it on the car from the underside.

 

The diff blowing oil out of the breather took months to sort out.

First I tried making a fancy little baffle to keep the oil from the breather hole.







That did bugger all and it still blew oil out of the breather pipe, so I stripped it all down again and made an extra baffle.



Put it all back together again and off for another test drive, marginal improvement but still blew oil out over 60 mph.

 

Next I tried an expansion pot to try and separate the oil from the air after chatting to some guys on the Rods n Sods forum.






I really thought I had sorted the problem with this as all appeared good after a quick blast up the local bypass so booked it in at Emerald to finish the dyno session.

After trying it on a longer run at sustained speed the problem was back

Cancelled the dyno, took the damn thing apart again and tried adding a drain back from the breather box below the oil level in the diff.



Test drive proved this also did bugger all

Tried some tell tale temperature stickers in case it was overheating and it wasn't.

 

I go back to the guys on the Rods n Sods forum and one of them had the idea that my first baffle was over complicated and to try copying the original Jag design, at this point there was nothing to lose so the exhaust system came off yet again followed by draining the oil and dropping the beam down to get the cover off.

Tried re-branding the baffle in an attempt to change my luck.





Back together again with yet more LS90 oil and tried more sustained speed runs, this time it actually worked

Booked in to Emerald again to finish the setting up with fingers crossed no other teething problems come along!

 

Excellent persistence.
It does get frustrating re visiting the same problem but you got there.

 

That must have been a huge frustration... at least it would be for me. From what car is that diff originally? Does that car not have the same problems and is there no structural solution for it?

 

I probably over complicated things with my first baffle and that led me onto months of pain and frustration

Standard Jag diff cover pic below

 

Having temperature control issues also, fuel is heating up and that is probably down to the aluminium fuel rails being stuck under the air filter exposed to loads of heat so fitted a Ford Edge diesel cooler to help keep the temp down.

 

Air charge temperature is also nasty in traffic, tried a butchered bonnet but it hardly helped without any ducting to keep the under bonnet heat away and ended up taking it of again.

 

Made it back to Emerald with mixed results.

Air charge temps are nasty in traffic and can get to 65 degrees, also being stuck in traffic the fans are struggling to keep the water cool on a hot day, it got up to 105 degrees on way home from dyno setup and I resorted to turning the heater on.

New Spall fans coming from pro Alloy this week that flow 25% more air but they are a bit deeper and will be tight for space...

Arrived at Emerald early and was chatting to a local chap who seemed quite knowledgeable whilst waiting and it turned out to be "Tabetha" who used to post on here in the good old days before he got banned for upsetting the moderators!

He's a really nice guy and it's a shame he got kicked off.

As luck would have it he had a Cosworth 4x4 bonnet and some new old stock vents that he did me a good deal on along with a bumper that I'm not sure on using as was trying to avoid a wanabee Cosworth look, does the bumper make any difference to cooling or is it just to look sporty?

Bonnet needs some work but I might end up cutting a hole in the middle as yet.




Car made good power peaking at 503.5 bhp but it peaked a little earlier than I wanted, might try playing with induction length which would meant cutting the bonnet but the ACT's are far to high anyway and it lost 46 bhp when the bonnet was shut

According to PipeMax my induction length should be 13.8 inches and it is way short of that.





Dave Walker said it might be the induction pulses from the throttle bodies bouncing back from the closed bonnet, unfortunately the dyno graph recorded the temperature in the room rather than what the ECU was seeing for ACT sensor so it's a bit of a guess as to what's going on.

Drive home was sketchy as the dyno managed to kill the 9 year old Federal RSR tyres and one lost a chunk of rubber and went out of shape shortly after leaving.



I replaced the whole lot with Toyo Proxes R888R making for a really expensive week.


Bonnet up dyno graph


Torque is better than I expected low down with the too short an intake length, will do some experimenting over the winter as just want to have some fun now.

 

Hi I have just discovered this thread , All i can say is AWESOME well done in getting it ti this stage Regards
Dave