Escort Van - 1.8D to 1.8TD engine swap?
#1
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Escort Van - 1.8D to 1.8TD engine swap?
Hi guys,
can anyone tell me whats invloved in swapping the 1.8d engine in my 98 escort van for the 1.8td lump?
what parts would be needed?
or is the turbo a bolt on option with the manifolds?
Thanks Matt
can anyone tell me whats invloved in swapping the 1.8d engine in my 98 escort van for the 1.8td lump?
what parts would be needed?
or is the turbo a bolt on option with the manifolds?
Thanks Matt
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#11
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according to derv doctor the internals of the engine are different, i was thinking about doing this to my van but they dont recomend it. its a straight forward swap though, find a TD out of a mk1 mondeo or any of the earlier escorts and there is no ecu to wire in. make sure its the 90 bhp engine though, (the one with the intercooler). its easy to make some reasonable power out of them too as you can adjust the fueling on and off boost and the boost itself. with a front mounted intercooler and a bit of fettling by someone who knows what theyer doing i have seen them making 150 bhp
i would highly recommend derv doctor, they fiddled about with the fuel pump on my n/a 1.8d a few weeks back and its a million times better. cant think of the website off hand but google it if u want.
i would highly recommend derv doctor, they fiddled about with the fuel pump on my n/a 1.8d a few weeks back and its a million times better. cant think of the website off hand but google it if u want.
#16
Advanced PassionFord User
Transplant.
Just done this conversion myself. I put a 1995 td engine into my 1999 van. Didnt go so smooth. for some reason, it wouldn't start on the key. You have to splice into the loom. What i done was fitted a start switch to bypass this problem. Another thing is i have found the intercooler is v close to the underside of the bonnet. i got a vent to go in soon but in the mean time i have lifted the back of the bonnet 30mm to help with cooling. hope thats some help.
#18
Advanced PassionFord User
Turbo diesel pump
Very true. At the moment i'm having to run my td on a straight derv pump cause the turbo pump seals gone and leaking derv like u would never believe (60 mile to Ł20) anyone know where the best place is and price to send it away to get reconditioned??????? its only done 44000!!!!!!!
#21
am i being thick lol
hi there, i am about to do a engine change from n/a derv to td, i have an endura engine am i being thick but what your saying is i can just bolt on a turbo and other bits to my existing engine and all will be ok? or was you talking about an actual td engine?cheers
#23
hello there thanks for the info great help, one last thing where can i find out the compression ratios on the turbo and non turbo endura? many thanks benji
#24
hi all! im from south africa and got a bantam 1.8 diesel with the front end lookn like ur mk5 zetec s! i got a import engin from the uk the mk6 escourt 1.8td! now my rev counters not working aswell as my brakes and my glow plugs get no power from the ignition! the coding of the key r bypassed already! can u help please?
#26
Yes you can just swap the lump but you might have to do some wiring adjustments to get it to start but it a straight forword conversion thou
Last edited by Ford Van Man; 19-07-2009 at 04:17 AM.
#27
hi all! im from south africa and got a bantam 1.8 diesel with the front end lookn like ur mk5 zetec s! i got a import engin from the uk the mk6 escourt 1.8td! now my rev counters not working aswell as my brakes and my glow plugs get no power from the ignition! the coding of the key r bypassed already! can u help please?
By the battery there should be a black box in there should be fuses make sure done of them have blown and check all your earth wires too as that might cause the revcounter to play up
Last edited by Ford Van Man; 19-07-2009 at 04:16 AM.
#28
you cannt put a turbo on a non turbo engine the pistons will not work with a non turbo engine there not much difference in out put side of things i found the non turbo engine got more pulling power then a turbo engine
#29
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does anybody know the power outputs of the 1.8D and 1.8TD escort vans?
im looking into buying one but my mate rekons the non turbos are the slowest thing on the road and are not even that good on fuel?
im looking into buying one but my mate rekons the non turbos are the slowest thing on the road and are not even that good on fuel?
#30
Il try and finf out about the compression ratios on the turbo and non turbo endura?
the Endura-DE engine was a normally aspirated engine producing 60 PS (59 hp/44 kW). However for other Ford Escort (Europe) and Ford Mondeo the Endura-DE also featured a turbocharger producing 75 PS (74 hp/55 kW) and some models also had an intercooler and these produced 90 PS (89 hp/66 kW) This is all i can find on this hopes this helps You Benji
#31
Hi i got a non tubro 1.8 d Van best thing i done i buying it it goes well keeps up with my mate in a 2.5 turbo d ice cream van i can do 90 mph in it on a motorway i had a 2000 on a v reg ford focus before 1.8 turbo it was as flat as shit my van a loads better fuel graet on it too 500 miles too a tank full too
#33
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Kept up with traffic easily and I was actually supprised how nippy it was for a non turbo.
Fuel was also good, I dont ever remember thinking this thing is bloody thirsty.
Fully loaded the power was down and the front sterring was quite light, but other than that I couldnt fault it.
A good cheap van, and something of a classic i really feel now days, as I feel this was really the last car derived van made.
everything now is transit connect style.
#34
hi! my key coding were bypassed! the black box on the diesel pump were removed and connected directly 2 the ignition! its works well like that
#37
I did this conversion on my van, and now i ended up changing the whole engine, box and subframe anyway, it worked, but not for long...
heres the list of what i did:
Swapped exhaust and inlet manifolds over to the TDI ones, changed the oil filter housing to the TD one as it had an oil feed for the turbo built in,
theres a small pipe going into the bottom of the block on the TD for the turbo oil return, on the NA block you need to tap out the core plug here and put the pipe in here from the other block.
reroute the water pipes through the oil cooler on the TD filter housing.
change to the TDi injection Pump.
if your TD pump is the later type with 3 black wires going to the fuel shut off solonoid, remove the shroud that is supposed to prevent access to it, remove the solonoid and replace with the older type (just one ignition live)
then put another wire from the starter solonoid wire (ignition barrel side), to the starter solonoid wire (black or black and red wire). it has a single pin plug that runs near the brake fluid pot..
this eliminates all the hastle of the chipped key problems that i ran into...
also you will need to either get a custom exhaust made or get a TD escort van exhaust which are not cheap new, the original van one will not fit the TD manifold and if it did, it will restrict and cook the engine anyway
bear in mind that the TDI engines are intended to sit slightly further forward due to the intercooler fouling the bulkhead, you can just remove the plastic part of the bulkhead which i did but you will have a problem getting anything onto the air intake because it is so close to the brake servo. it is possible and it does work but it doesnt look right.
it took me 2 evenings to do all the above without rushing too much.
it made a huge difference in performance, the following day i towed a cavalier full of spares on a trailer, with a van full of tools 10 miles to arena essex and back with no problems. unfortunately a few weeks later the head gasket and the fuel pump failed almost simultaniously so i decided on changing the lot...
if you plan on using the TD box you also need to change the subframe, linkage and gearstick because the TD box has an extra mount on the subframe, diffrent linkage, lift up reverse and a longer clutch cable.
the speedo drives will just swap straight over but you will need to swap the plugs over from the reverse light switch.
if you want to change the lot, i would recommend sourcing a whole escort TDI and just drop the lot out of the bottom with the gearstick still attached etc. this is what i did the 2nd time, hell of a lot easier in the long run. and while its out you may want to do any tweaks to the pump now if you are going to up the fuelling, because its quite difficult to get your hand down the front when its in.
the van will now easily spin up through 1st and 2nd in the dry, and its better on juice than before (unless i floor it everywhere).
all in all, i would say it was definately worth it, because if you are anything like me, the 1.8 diesel used to make me angry everytime i hit a hill! i no longer have this problem.
sorry for such a long post, but maybe this will shed some light on the subject.
heres the list of what i did:
Swapped exhaust and inlet manifolds over to the TDI ones, changed the oil filter housing to the TD one as it had an oil feed for the turbo built in,
theres a small pipe going into the bottom of the block on the TD for the turbo oil return, on the NA block you need to tap out the core plug here and put the pipe in here from the other block.
reroute the water pipes through the oil cooler on the TD filter housing.
change to the TDi injection Pump.
if your TD pump is the later type with 3 black wires going to the fuel shut off solonoid, remove the shroud that is supposed to prevent access to it, remove the solonoid and replace with the older type (just one ignition live)
then put another wire from the starter solonoid wire (ignition barrel side), to the starter solonoid wire (black or black and red wire). it has a single pin plug that runs near the brake fluid pot..
this eliminates all the hastle of the chipped key problems that i ran into...
also you will need to either get a custom exhaust made or get a TD escort van exhaust which are not cheap new, the original van one will not fit the TD manifold and if it did, it will restrict and cook the engine anyway
bear in mind that the TDI engines are intended to sit slightly further forward due to the intercooler fouling the bulkhead, you can just remove the plastic part of the bulkhead which i did but you will have a problem getting anything onto the air intake because it is so close to the brake servo. it is possible and it does work but it doesnt look right.
it took me 2 evenings to do all the above without rushing too much.
it made a huge difference in performance, the following day i towed a cavalier full of spares on a trailer, with a van full of tools 10 miles to arena essex and back with no problems. unfortunately a few weeks later the head gasket and the fuel pump failed almost simultaniously so i decided on changing the lot...
if you plan on using the TD box you also need to change the subframe, linkage and gearstick because the TD box has an extra mount on the subframe, diffrent linkage, lift up reverse and a longer clutch cable.
the speedo drives will just swap straight over but you will need to swap the plugs over from the reverse light switch.
if you want to change the lot, i would recommend sourcing a whole escort TDI and just drop the lot out of the bottom with the gearstick still attached etc. this is what i did the 2nd time, hell of a lot easier in the long run. and while its out you may want to do any tweaks to the pump now if you are going to up the fuelling, because its quite difficult to get your hand down the front when its in.
the van will now easily spin up through 1st and 2nd in the dry, and its better on juice than before (unless i floor it everywhere).
all in all, i would say it was definately worth it, because if you are anything like me, the 1.8 diesel used to make me angry everytime i hit a hill! i no longer have this problem.
sorry for such a long post, but maybe this will shed some light on the subject.
#39
you may have to remove the power steering etc from the mondeo lump, or swap it over, but if ur van has power steering and the pumps on the bottom not the top, the mondeo sump doesnt have the bolt holes to accomodate for the pump at the bottom,
you will probably have to swap all the mounts,
i dont know what you would do about the gearbox, iirc the mk4 has a crossmember going from front to back with 2 mounts, mk5/6 escort & mondeo is completely different gearbox mount wise.
if the engine is a TDi with the ECU like mine was, you might have a hard time with the wiring as i did, i have got the whole engine bay loom and ECU connected up with the MAF etc, but i dont think its actually doing anything, it will run anyway if u bypass the immobilised pump.
my van never had an ECU, and the connector up by the bulkhead was the same but i dont think the wiring going on the other side of the plug is the same. my glow plug relay has no live going to it, and when i put a live to it, something in the diesel pump starts buzzing, it runs like crap, and does all sorts of wierd things. im just going to put the wiring back to standard and get rid of the ECU,
more hastle than it was worth imo.
you will probably have to swap all the mounts,
i dont know what you would do about the gearbox, iirc the mk4 has a crossmember going from front to back with 2 mounts, mk5/6 escort & mondeo is completely different gearbox mount wise.
if the engine is a TDi with the ECU like mine was, you might have a hard time with the wiring as i did, i have got the whole engine bay loom and ECU connected up with the MAF etc, but i dont think its actually doing anything, it will run anyway if u bypass the immobilised pump.
my van never had an ECU, and the connector up by the bulkhead was the same but i dont think the wiring going on the other side of the plug is the same. my glow plug relay has no live going to it, and when i put a live to it, something in the diesel pump starts buzzing, it runs like crap, and does all sorts of wierd things. im just going to put the wiring back to standard and get rid of the ECU,
more hastle than it was worth imo.
#40
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mondy mk2 td inlet and 'cooler wont fit. i found out the hard way
id already spent about 6 hours on the buffer!
id already spent about 6 hours on the buffer!