bleeding cooling system on rover 214 k series
#1
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From: wolverhampton
bleeding cooling system on rover 214 k series
my missus has a rover 214 96 plate and the top hose burst, whats the correct process for bleeding the cooling system, i was messing with it for 2 hours today with no joy.
i have now read that you fill the header tank up slowly, with the bleed screw out with the engine off.
is this correct?
i have now read that you fill the header tank up slowly, with the bleed screw out with the engine off.
is this correct?
#2
not to sure on bleeding it mate. and i know its off subject. but i do know that u should do it often. as the water channels in the k series engine are pron to blocking up and the doing head gaskets.
just thought id mention it so that once u do find out how to do it u can do it more often to avoid having a weekends work of a head gasket.
good luck
just thought id mention it so that once u do find out how to do it u can do it more often to avoid having a weekends work of a head gasket.
good luck
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#9
According to the Rover Service Manual...this is what is states.......
Service repair no - 26.10.01
Refill
1. Flush system with water under low pressure.
CAUTION: High pressure water could damage the radiator.
2. Connect bottom hose to radiator and tighten clip.
3. Prepare coolant to required concentration
4. Remove bleed screw from coolant rail.
5. Fill system slowly until a steady flow of coolant
is emitted from the bleed hole in coolant rail.
6. Fit bleed screw to coolant rail and tighten to 9 Nm.
7. Continue filling system until coolant level reaches ’MAX’ mark on expansion tank.
8. Fit expansion tank filler cap.
9. Fit air cleaner.
10. Start and run engine until radiator cooling fan operates.
11. Switch off engine and allow to cool.
12. Check for leaks and top-up coolant to ’MAX’ mark on expansion tank.
I know when I did the headgasket on my girlfriends metro it was an absolute TW*T to bleed - I was there a while too!!!
With the 8v 1.4 engine there is a little ball bearing valve on the left of the inlet manifold that can block up & cause bleeding/cooling issues - best thing is just to shove something through it to remove it completely - I presume yours is the 16v version so it shouldnt matter!!!
Why did the top hose blow off.....was it just loose or could it be a sign of something else....
Service repair no - 26.10.01
Refill
1. Flush system with water under low pressure.
CAUTION: High pressure water could damage the radiator.
2. Connect bottom hose to radiator and tighten clip.
3. Prepare coolant to required concentration
4. Remove bleed screw from coolant rail.
5. Fill system slowly until a steady flow of coolant
is emitted from the bleed hole in coolant rail.
6. Fit bleed screw to coolant rail and tighten to 9 Nm.
7. Continue filling system until coolant level reaches ’MAX’ mark on expansion tank.
8. Fit expansion tank filler cap.
9. Fit air cleaner.
10. Start and run engine until radiator cooling fan operates.
11. Switch off engine and allow to cool.
12. Check for leaks and top-up coolant to ’MAX’ mark on expansion tank.
I know when I did the headgasket on my girlfriends metro it was an absolute TW*T to bleed - I was there a while too!!!
With the 8v 1.4 engine there is a little ball bearing valve on the left of the inlet manifold that can block up & cause bleeding/cooling issues - best thing is just to shove something through it to remove it completely - I presume yours is the 16v version so it shouldnt matter!!!
Why did the top hose blow off.....was it just loose or could it be a sign of something else....
#11
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From: wolverhampton
sorted it out in the end.
after hours spent trying to bleed it the dreaded white smoke started billowing out the back, head gasket gone.
took the head off, got it skimmed and pressure tested. replaced the thermostat as a matter of caution and also drilled the new one.
banged it all back together. no messing around bleeding needed. the hole in the stat did its job. running as sweet as a nut now.
thanks for the advice.
after hours spent trying to bleed it the dreaded white smoke started billowing out the back, head gasket gone.
took the head off, got it skimmed and pressure tested. replaced the thermostat as a matter of caution and also drilled the new one.
banged it all back together. no messing around bleeding needed. the hole in the stat did its job. running as sweet as a nut now.
thanks for the advice.
#12
Originally Posted by S1 Lee
sorted it out in the end.
replaced the thermostat as a matter of caution and also drilled the new one.
thanks for the advice.
replaced the thermostat as a matter of caution and also drilled the new one.
thanks for the advice.
#13
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I've found that life I needed.. It's HERE!!
Joined: May 2004
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From: wolverhampton
as i said mate thanks for the advice.
i never doubted your advice, just the thermostat looked like a right bitch to get to, but was a piece off piss with the head off.
thanks again.
i never doubted your advice, just the thermostat looked like a right bitch to get to, but was a piece off piss with the head off.
thanks again.
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